What two stroke pre mix is best?

[ford832]

ok, a lumberjack. i get it. since i started using Husky saws in the the '80's (266 & 181 models)  i will call myself a chain saw amateur.

Well,you may be an amateur,but given your choice of brand,you're still much better equipped than totalNZ. 
As for the definition of an NZ lumberjack,google Monty Python's "I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok"
There,totalnz,that's what you get for saying the mighty jred bogs down-lol.
In keeping with the topic of saw choices/superiority,it's all relative.My grandfather worked in the woods his entire life from the horse/oxen/woods camp/river log drive era right up until his death about 15 years ago.My summer vacations were usually spent in the woods with him though when I was younger I used to haul the logs out as he figured I was too young to run a chainsaw safely.Anyhoo,we were at a forestry exhibition one time and were looking at some restored vintage two man chainsaws.After picking one up I said-holy %@$#,what a pig.How would anyone ever use the likes of that monstrosity.Well,he says,when you were used to a double bitted axe and bucksaw,these were quite an amazing piece of gear.Things have certainly come a long way since then.

[ford832]

Well,we're waiting........

I'd be interested not so much in an obvious piston/cyl wear but a long term crank bearing life as compared to another brand of high end synthetic mixed at a more common ratio.

[ford832]

I wrote this up a few years ago on another forum, this seems like an appropriate thread for it:

Though I've never used it,it was always my understanding that 927 was a very good oil if you tore your engine down frequently,as it tended to be a a somewhat dirty/gummy oil.As for yamalube,I've found that works well but always left the pv much dirtier than the motul800 I've used for the last number of years.Completely unscientific mind you as far as my own testing goes,just what I've noticed at tear down over the years.

[Chokey]

Are here no guys that are using Castrol A747 or XR77?
the are one of the best 2 stroke oil in the world!

The only Castrol pre-mix oil that is readily available in this area is Castrol 2T Motorcycle oil. It's a generic premix oil that in my opinion doesn't have an adequate additive package for high-rpm high-performance engines. I would only use it in a pinch.

[Chokey]

Though I've never used it,it was always my understanding that 927 was a very good oil if you tore your engine down frequently,as it tended to be a a somewhat dirty/gummy oil.As for yamalube,I've found that works well but always left the pv much dirtier than the motul800 I've used for the last number of years.Completely unscientific mind you as far as my own testing goes,just what I've noticed at tear down over the years.

I do tend to rebuild at fairly frequent intervals, typically 40 hours or so. But based on my useage patterns, neither 927 or Yamalube is excessively "dirty".

927 is an excellent oil for hard-core "I can ream a 250 like an 85" racers, because it's a blend of de-gummed castor and a polyalkylene glycol base. The addition of the synthetic base significantly reduces the varnish formations that castor is known for, while the unique ester-forming properties of the castor under intense heat will do an excellent job of protecting the engine when you're pushing it to it's thermal limits.

Synthetics are very clean-burning lubricants, but none of them can protect like castor when running at the ragged limits of your engine. As castor breaks down under thermal stress, it responds by forming ever-heavier esters, in effect becoming a better lubricant as it breaks down. Castor will continue to lubricate long after a synthetic oil has simply boiled away.

[reefmuncher]

My experience has been varied really and some oils worked well and others didn't or at least not in the application I used them in.

A long time ago (early 90's) I used to swear by Shell outboard oil and Evinrude XP outboard oil. Both oils had this distinct smell (could be same oil different dye?) and worked really well with clean burn and on my road going aircooled engine hone marks were totally in tact. Not sure of ratio as it was on pump, but it worked for me with no issues.

At some point a dealer started selling Silkolene oils so I tried the injector and comp 2 oils. For me both ended up making lots of carbon and bore wear seemed more obvious for sure. I quickly went back to the outboard stuff.

On my racing bikes I used blendzall which was super impressive for wear resistance, just did mean ring sticking was something to watch for.

Next came Klotz racing oils and so I used their injector oil on the road bike and premix stuff on the race bike with no troubles. I don't remember all the details then as I guess it worked fine for me so no worries. I started to use Castrol A747 on the race bikes which also did a fine job.

Down the road to more recent times Motul became available to us and I started to use the 510 and 710 on the road bikes and the 800 premix when I blasted them on track days. A friend of mine races scooters which rev at a constant high RPM and they found even the 800 wouldn't offer the protection they required, so they use the Motul kart racing oil which is for 23,000rpm racing engines. They swear by the stuff now and a regimented maintence schedule.

My experiences aren't scientific at all, just what I've stumbled upon along the way. I premix at 32:1 with no deviation, just adjust the oil type for the loading the engine will be doing. So cruising road bikes get the 510 easy to burn off oil, tuned road bikes which get a bit of stick get the 710 better protection oil and when I go to the track (race these days) I mix with the 800 for maximum protection.

I think most brands offer similar oils in their lineups so if I switched to Castrol or others I'd probably follow a similar regime.

[Hondacrrider]

Haha, I just use whatever boat premix I can steal out of the bottom of my dad's oil storage container. Although I do make sure it has that approval thing on the side. I have tried a couple different oils, I tried shell's fully synthetic and it burned really clean, but I missed the smell, I actually like the boat mix better.

[ford832]

Though I've never used it,it was always my understanding that 927 was a very good oil if you tore your engine down frequently,as it tended to be a a somewhat dirty/gummy oil.As for yamalube,I've found that works well but always left the pv much dirtier than the motul800 I've used for the last number of years.Completely unscientific mind you as far as my own testing goes,just what I've noticed at tear down over the years.

I do tend to rebuild at fairly frequent intervals, typically 40 hours or so. But based on my useage patterns, neither 927 or Yamalube is excessively "dirty".

927 is an excellent oil for hard-core "I can ream a 250 like an 85" racers, because it's a blend of de-gummed castor and a polyalkylene glycol base. The addition of the synthetic base significantly reduces the varnish formations that castor is known for, while the unique ester-forming properties of the castor under intense heat will do an excellent job of protecting the engine when you're pushing it to it's thermal limits.

Synthetics are very clean-burning lubricants, but none of them can protect like castor when running at the ragged limits of your engine. As castor breaks down under thermal stress, it responds by forming ever-heavier esters, in effect becoming a better lubricant as it breaks down. Castor will continue to lubricate long after a synthetic oil has simply boiled away.

Good info Chokey.Thanks.By the sounds of it,the 927 would have been good for my 125's but with the 250,all I ream is my head into the dirt.I'll likely stick with the 800 for that.

[mxaniac]

Power valves seem to like oils like Motul 800, Mobil 1 MX2T, and Castrol TTS.  I think these are classified as group V esters.  All of the ones mentioned are very good but the Castrol is widely available and now that they sell it in a quart bottle it is more affordable than the others.

Read the fine print, small engines need more oil than large ones.  I wouldn't run a 65 cc bike with less than 32:1, the lower rod end bearing has a tendancy to go out.  I say that but my youngest sons 65 cc bike recommends 60:1 but only because they did a crappy power valve design and it gums up and breaks.

[maicoman009]

My KTM-300xc calls for Motorex oil mixed @ a 60 to 1 ratio.Is anybody else on this site familiar with
Motorex and also why does the new Maicos use Maxima 2t oils?

[grumpy]

Bean oil is good, but has a very short shelf life.

TCW3 (outboard motors) oil is designed for motors that do not exceed 300 degrees in the ring land area, so I'd recommend you avoid it. It's a shame too as TCW3 oil is so much cheaper.

API-TC is the rating you should be using. I'm pretty cheap myself and like to run 16:1 in my old bike. So Yamalube 2R or Valvoline® 2-Stroke Motorcycle Oil (not the outboard stuff) works for me.

I use 16:1 instead of 20:1 because it's a simple ratio to measure out (yes, I know that makes me lazy). Since I ride an old bike I feel better with these ratios. Check out http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf for a good read on premix ratios.

[evo550]

I run Castrol R30 (bean oil) @ 50:1 in both my '09 250 sx and my sons 65 sx. This stuff is great, I do a teardown every 15hrs on the 65 and the thing is dripping in oil. I have got 50 hrs from a piston on the 65 that still measured up.
At about $15 a liter it's half the price of motul and motorex, although as mentioned elsewhere, castor oil has a short life once mixed and is very hydroscopic(attracts moisture), carbon build up is also a down side, OH and the smell

[2T Institute]

This is a cylinder last ran in 2001 or something been sitting round ever since, some everso slight surface rust on a cast iron bore. NOTHING protects like castor oil. I have yet to have any issues with this varnish everybody talks about?
Have recently sorted big end issues with a bored out KX60 it would last a lap and a half on TTS at 30:1 runs for many meetings on Castor at 20:1

[graham472]

I've used Castrol TTS for over 15 years at 32:1, 40:1 and for the last 10 years 50:1 and have never done a bottom end. I reckon its great stuff, plus I was getting it for about 12 bucks a litre. In fact none of my mates that used TTS ever had engine problems.

[Jesse162]

Back on 80's i ran opti 2 and that stuff was terrible, i mixed it exactly how it said on the bottle with chevron highest octane gas everytime. I probably blew 4 top ends that season but i then switched to maxima's castor 927 and that worked great in the summer but when arenacross started the temperature dropped and the oil separated from the gas and caused carburator to plug up. I then switched to Maxima FormulaK2 or somthing like that in the purple bottle and have been running 40:1 in my 125. I raced it hard and never had a problem, still run it to this day