Count another 2-Stroke Convert, Maybe, need your help.

[MxNate]

First off, what a wicked site this is, just shows how far the 2 stroke movement has come since 1998.  I say Maybe in the subject because I havent ridden a 2 stroke since 1999 and back then I switched because of the mellow power delivery of a friends yz400.  I had a couple of solid get offs on my 250 that I attributed to a hit that was too hard to control, riding that tractor seemed to make more sense at the time and it did keep me off the ground.   Ive been off bikes for the last 5 years and when I do make my comeback it will be on a pretty tight budget, I thought this might be a great time to buy a 2 stroke.  My question is if I were to buy a 2001 to 2003 250 2 stroke of any brand what could I do to make the "hit" a little easier to take and more importantly keep me off the ground.  I want a 2 stroke for all the practical reasons but the idea of the power band scares me just a little bit, I imagine anyone that has ridden or raced a modern 4 stroke has to understand where Im coming from, I hope.   Thanks again to the site and any advice in advance.

[Hondacrrider]

First off, what a wicked site this is, just shows how far the 2 stroke movement has come since 1998.  I say Maybe in the subject because I havent ridden a 2 stroke since 1999 and back then I switched because of the mellow power delivery of a friends yz400.  I had a couple of solid get offs on my 250 that I attributed to a hit that was too hard to control, riding that tractor seemed to make more sense at the time and it did keep me off the ground.   Ive been off bikes for the last 5 years and when I do make my comeback it will be on a pretty tight budget, I thought this might be a great time to buy a 2 stroke.  My question is if I were to buy a 2001 to 2003 250 2 stroke of any brand what could I do to make the "hit" a little easier to take and more importantly keep me off the ground.  I want a 2 stroke for all the practical reasons but the idea of the power band scares me just a little bit, I imagine anyone that has ridden or raced a modern 4 stroke has to understand where Im coming from, I hope.   Thanks again to the site and any advice in advance.

I think, that you should get a 2001 cr250r, the best engine, maybe not the best frame though. After you get the bike, get a heavier flywheel weight, that will bring lot's of the power from up high, into the lower part of the powerband, and I think that will take some of the hit away, also an fmf gnarly pipe will give you more power down low, as well as an fmf q, but now this is sounding like a trail bike. If you plan on doing motocross, buy a 2002, and keep it stock, by the sounds of it, that will have plenty of power and hit for you at a track

[2smoker]

Welcome to the site! Go buy an RM 250 04+.. they go for cheap and are bad ass! Best handling bike ever!

[JETZcorp]

Buy an '80s Maico - preferably an '83-'86 or so.  If you want power delivery that won't sneak up on you or do anything spooky, that's the make that will be most consistent for you.  Whenever you want some more power, just move your wrist and its yours.  It's not one of those bikes that builds revs up, then suddenly flies off the handle and takes your head off.  And, they're cheap as hell because everyone thinks they're hunky old jalopies.  Not the most up-to-date chassis in the world, certainly, but there's a lot of argument to be made for steel frames, and the motor delivers just as much power as a newer engine, but more smoothly and predictably.

That's my official recommendation, but of course the best thing to do is to try a bike out before you commit to buying.

[2smoker]

Buy an '80s Maico - preferably an '83-'86 or so.  If you want power delivery that won't sneak up on you or do anything spooky, that's the make that will be most consistent for you.  Whenever you want some more power, just move your wrist and its yours.  It's not one of those bikes that builds revs up, then suddenly flies off the handle and takes your head off.  And, they're cheap as hell because everyone thinks they're hunky old jalopies.  Not the most up-to-date chassis in the world, certainly, but there's a lot of argument to be made for steel frames, and the motor delivers just as much power as a newer engine, but more smoothly and predictably.

That's my official recommendation, but of course the best thing to do is to try a bike out before you commit to buying.

Jet! He wants to buy an NOWADAYS bike from a stealership not a collectible from a  museum lol Just to let you know..It is 2:10 Am right now Mountain time and  we are the 7 of April 2010 lol

[TotalNZ]

Buy an '80s Maico - preferably an '83-'86 or so.  If you want power delivery that won't sneak up on you or do anything spooky, that's the make that will be most consistent for you.  Whenever you want some more power, just move your wrist and its yours.  It's not one of those bikes that builds revs up, then suddenly flies off the handle and takes your head off.  And, they're cheap as hell because everyone thinks they're hunky old jalopies.  Not the most up-to-date chassis in the world, certainly, but there's a lot of argument to be made for steel frames, and the motor delivers just as much power as a newer engine, but more smoothly and predictably.

That's my official recommendation, but of course the best thing to do is to try a bike out before you commit to buying.

Jet! He wants to buy an NOWADAYS bike from a stealership not a collectible from a  museum lol Just to let you know..It is 2:10 Am right now Mountain time and  we are the 7 of April 2010 lol

Classic

[TotalNZ]

Hey Nate what about a TM, i can highly recommend th 2t TM's. all the latest tech and heaps of real cool billet parts made inhouse.
As has been mentioned before a flywheel weight will smooth out that hit and make the bike much easier to ride, i fitted one to my CR250 with excellent results.
http://www.tmracing.it/

[MXLord327]

Definitely a flywheel weight and FMF Gnarly pipe.  I have also had good luck with V-Force3 reeds on my YZ250, they bump up the low-end quite a bit.  You can also retard your timing a little, this will take away a bit of the snap, extend the over-rev, and lessen any tendency to ping on pump gas.  As far as bike choice, I love the YZ - excellent suspension, predictable handing, great straight-line stability.  The RM is great as well - best turning 250 ever, but a little less stable at high speed.  For tight track riding I would pick the RM, for more wide open tracks I would go with the YZ.  You should be able to find an '05 or newer of either in great shape for around $3000.

[eprovenzano]

[MxNate]

Thanks guys, the advice and suggestions are just what I expected to get here, solid for sure.   Sounds like the concensus is that bolt on #1 should be a flywheel weight which makes sense in terms of power delivery.  The last bike I had was an '02 Crf450, I held onto it for 3 years and to be honest the last two years almost bankrupted me with maintenance costs, the idea that I can get back to doing my own top ends and for a 1/4 of the price puts a huge smile on my face. 

If I ended up with something from '01 to '03 will I have trouble getting parts?
Just thinking ahead.
Nate

[MXLord327]

I ride a '98 YZ250, and the only thing I have trouble with are aftermarket graphics.  I can still get just about everything else either through dealers or on-line, so you shouldn't have a problem.  I even replaced most of the gears and bearings in my transmission a couple years back, and had to wait a few weeks for some of the parts, but they were still available.  ~Russ

[2smoker]

Used 2 stroke are so cheap here. but they go fast..

[SachsGS]

In the movie "Outlaw Josey Wales" Chief Dan George says when you go into a gunfight you have to "have an edge" and trying to detune a 250 two stroke when your down 200cc against 50 hp 450 four strokes sounds like a slaughter to me .Are the rules in your area more flexible ie KTM,Husqvarna,Gas Gas,TM 300 or (probaly the smoothest) Maico 320?

[JETZcorp]

If you want a bike that's totally contemporary, take your '86 Maico and glue some modern plastic on it.  No one will be able to tell the difference, except for the fact that it's got a small, strong, and easily weldable steel frame.  I just don't get the automatic association that old = uncompetitive.  The peak power is roughly the same, while the delivery of power and handling are ranked equal- or superior-to modern standards by many accounts.  And, you'll have water cooling, disc brakes, monoshock, etc.  The only thing you're missing is a power valve, which doesn't seem to be necessary if you look at the numbers.  The only obstacle I see to being competitive on a 25 year-old bike is any rules that might prohibit its use in whatever races you're doing.  I have no idea if that's on the books in amateur racing, but I know it is for professional racing.

But, if a large number in the "Year:" line and super-pointy pieces of plastic are worth paying the order of magnitude difference in price between a new bike and an old one, then I recommend getting in line for the new Maico 250.  It takes a good engine and turns it into a God engine.  54 horsepower, and reportedly very linear and easy-to-control.  You won't be able to have it sitting in a crate in your garage by tomorrow morning, and there is likely a fairly hefty premium over other contemporary 250s, but it's the ultimate weapon in the 250 class.  It should be smooth enough on the showroom floor that you won't have to de-tune it, and you'll have as much, if not more peak power than a 450F.

[admiral]

If you want a bike that's totally contemporary, take your '86 Maico and glue some modern plastic on it.  No one will be able to tell the difference, except for the fact that it's got a small, strong, and easily weldable steel frame.  I just don't get the automatic association that old = uncompetitive.  The peak power is roughly the same, while the delivery of power and handling are ranked equal- or superior-to modern standards by many accounts.  And, you'll have water cooling, disc brakes, monoshock, etc.  The only thing you're missing is a power valve, which doesn't seem to be necessary if you look at the numbers.  The only obstacle I see to being competitive on a 25 year-old bike is any rules that might prohibit its use in whatever races you're doing.  I have no idea if that's on the books in amateur racing, but I know it is for professional racing.

But, if a large number in the "Year:" line and super-pointy pieces of plastic are worth paying the order of magnitude difference in price between a new bike and an old one, then I recommend getting in line for the new Maico 250.  It takes a good engine and turns it into a God engine.  54 horsepower, and reportedly very linear and easy-to-control.  You won't be able to have it sitting in a crate in your garage by tomorrow morning, and there is likely a fairly hefty premium over other contemporary 250s, but it's the ultimate weapon in the 250 class.  It should be smooth enough on the showroom floor that you won't have to de-tune it, and you'll have as much, if not more peak power than a 450F.

i have a feeling that the claimed 54 horsepower is measured at the sales brochure not the rear wheel. as far as an old bike being competitive with modern machines, it will depend on the track and the rider. i've been to a few vintage races and even raced one and they basically cut out big sections of the track because the old bikes can't take the pounding that the modern track obstacles dish out. at least that's what they do here in the midwest with the vintage races i went to.