09 TM 300

[TM DEAN]

HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may just be that the Scalvini makes different power.

Thats exactly it apparently,have spoken with a TM trained factory mechanic and he says the have had some good results with them..HGS performance is very good,no doubt,just damage too easily for me..50mm zook forks!!shim stack mod and a pre expanded bladder transformed mine from bad to pretty darn good.

[TotalNZ]

HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may just be that the Scalvini makes different power.

Thats exactly it apparently,have spoken with a TM trained factory mechanic and he says the have had some good results with them..HGS performance is very good,no doubt,just damage too easily for me..50mm zook forks!!shim stack mod and a pre expanded bladder transformed mine from bad to pretty darn good.

Yeah that bladders gotta have at least 5mm of convexity (is that the right word?) or the initial stroke will be way too hard. I modified a syringe with a threaded end to push more oil into the bladder to achieve this easily.
I went to do the shim stack mod on my 09 but was already done. Apparently they come done already from 09 onwards.
They definitely like to be pushed hard to get the best out of them, those marzocchi forks.

[Blop]

Mine is 2012, with just 4,5 hours. What is this mod for shimstack? Is there basic mod or do you mean personal adjusting?
First service will be done at 10h and by tm mechanic, have to ask him about over expanding bladder.

[gc8steve]

Mine is 2012, with just 4,5 hours. What is this mod for shimstack? Is there basic mod or do you mean personal adjusting?
First service will be done at 10h and by tm mechanic, have to ask him about over expanding bladder.

pretty sure you can't pre expand the bladder on the 12's as they don't have a bleed screw in the cartridge cap, from what i've been told the shim stack mod was just the removal of 1 shim in the comp stack and 5wt fork oil in the cartridge . The standard valving isn't to bad as long as you've got the right spring rates

[2STROKEREVOLUTION]

Hi

Here nice read about titanium framed bike and how "nice" it was http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/290/1686/Motorcycle-Article/Memorable-Motorcyles-BSA-Titanium.aspx

I have been watching prices of these bikes with interest, TM is much cheaper here Finland compared to Ktm and in states vice verse, cant understand it, but you cant have all with "cheap"
Just got mine and had 3h riding with it, im liking it very very.

Here you find some dyno figures http://www.scalviniracing.it/eng/articoli4_scheda.jsp?idarticolo=M-TM250300E/001&idcatalogo=AWAC   download attachment.

Chears!

You can't compare a 47 year old titanium framed bike to today's modern design, metallurgy and manufacturing. Ti has been successfully used by custom builders of light weight frames for street bikes. A lot has changed since then.

Interesting about the prices. TM is more expensive here, but not THAT much more. It is $8k for a KTM/Husaberg 300 and a TM is like $9k I think. Not bad for an exotic, limited, hand built bike from Italy.

[Blop]

I know we shouldnt compare those frames, but still its little bit funnier to weld and fix on field.
Here its more than 1000? price difference, still if i look at enduro compettion list, theres 151 ktm and 22 tm.  Suits me I like to drive little bit different than most

My forks has 2 small screws on outside of the red hexacon, + bleaders and comp adjustment screws

Hi

Here nice read about titanium framed bike and how "nice" it was http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/290/1686/Motorcycle-Article/Memorable-Motorcyles-BSA-Titanium.aspx

I have been watching prices of these bikes with interest, TM is much cheaper here Finland compared to Ktm and in states vice verse, cant understand it, but you cant have all with "cheap"
Just got mine and had 3h riding with it, im liking it very very.

Here you find some dyno figures http://www.scalviniracing.it/eng/articoli4_scheda.jsp?idarticolo=M-TM250300E/001&idcatalogo=AWAC   download attachment.

Chears!

You can't compare a 47 year old titanium framed bike to today's modern design, metallurgy and manufacturing. Ti has been successfully used by custom builders of light weight frames for street bikes. A lot has changed since then.

Interesting about the prices. TM is more expensive here, but not THAT much more. It is $8k for a KTM/Husaberg 300 and a TM is like $9k I think. Not bad for an exotic, limited, hand built bike from Italy.

[TM DEAN]

This is a little of topic,does anyone else have problems with TM rear wheel bearings?I cant get them to last much longer than 500km,am very careful when washing with the pressure washer and also pull the race covers of on tyre change,flush them out with kero and repack with grease,being careful to not overdo with grease so they dont heat up and fail earlier..Have used SKF,All Balls and Koyo,with Koyo lasting the longest,dust seals are in good shape also.Is there a ceramic bearing or any other more durable?

[TMKIWI]

I had my first set go not long after I got the bike S/H and replaced the bearings and dust seal spacers and haven't had a problem since.
The dust seal spacers are aluminium and wear quite quick. Make sure you don't have a groove in them.

[TM DEAN]

I had my first set go not long after I got the bike S/H and replaced the bearings and dust seal spacers and haven't had a problem since.
The dust seal spacers are aluminium and wear quite quick. Make sure you don't have a groove in them.

What brand of bearing?

[TMKIWI]

NTN I think.

[TotalNZ]

Mine is 2012, with just 4,5 hours. What is this mod for shimstack? Is there basic mod or do you mean personal adjusting?
First service will be done at 10h and by tm mechanic, have to ask him about over expanding bladder.

pretty sure you can't pre expand the bladder on the 12's as they don't have a bleed screw in the cartridge cap, from what i've been told the shim stack mod was just the removal of 1 shim in the comp stack and 5wt fork oil in the cartridge . The standard valving isn't to bad as long as you've got the right spring rates

You can still do it without the bleeder holes just more mucking around.

[TotalNZ]

This is a little of topic,does anyone else have problems with TM rear wheel bearings?I cant get them to last much longer than 500km,am very careful when washing with the pressure washer and also pull the race covers of on tyre change,flush them out with kero and repack with grease,being careful to not overdo with grease so they dont heat up and fail earlier..Have used SKF,All Balls and Koyo,with Koyo lasting the longest,dust seals are in good shape also.Is there a ceramic bearing or any other more durable?

I had to do mine too at about 30 hours which i wasn't stoked with considering i couldn't find aftermarket ones and the genuines are a crazy price.

[Tucker]

My 2012 TM250MX has 80+ hours on the bearings and my 2012 TM250EN race bike has 42 hours on it.  The HGS pipes are super thin and didn't last very long on the MX.  I replaced it with the Scalvini and it has done quit well.  The EN got a MOOSE pipe guard before it ever went out and the HGS has been fine with the guard.  I race the TM's in the AMA Western Hare Scramble series in the 250A class,  going into the last round this weekend tied for 1st.  The MX is still on its original top end and the compression is still where it was when new.  It's always ran half AV and 91 pump.  Long live the two-strokes

[TM DEAN]

My 2012 TM250MX has 80+ hours on the bearings and my 2012 TM250EN race bike has 42 hours on it.  The HGS pipes are super thin and didn't last very long on the MX.  I replaced it with the Scalvini and it has done quit well.  The EN got a MOOSE pipe guard before it ever went out and the HGS has been fine with the guard.  I race the TM's in the AMA Western Hare Scramble series in the 250A class,  going into the last round this weekend tied for 1st.  The MX is still on its original top end and the compression is still where it was when new.  It's always ran half AV and 91 pump.  Long live the two-strokes

Out of curiosity,what oil are you using Tucker?

[TotalNZ]

Just remembered i was gonna give you a run down on a few of the issues i found with my 09.
Some of the obvious things are the bottom chain roller doesn't line up with the chain properly and needs a cut and reweld to correct.
The rear brake line rubs on the swingarm and would eat away at the alloy if left ( i stuck a piece of rubber on to fix it see pic )
The airbox design is a disaster and required me to radius the carb venturi to fix it, from stock there is a horrible square edged step because there's no relief in the air boot. While i was in there i tidied up the carb to rubber sleeve and sleeve to reed junction as it was out a little. This isn't just a TM problem though, my CR was worse and the TM barrel to cases had already been done by hand in the factory.
The fuel tank rubs on the frame quite badly and needs some rubber strips for packing too.
Not much really but i think the airboot issue robs a little power and needs fixed. Would be interested to know if the 2012's are the same.

Here's a look through after i tidied it up you can see how much i radiused the venturi

Heres a look into the airbox after in radiused it too, sorry i havent got a before pic but you can see how much of a step there would've been.

I just cut a piece of inner tube to shape and glued it, hasn't moved since.

I re routed the wiring loom too as i wasn't happy with it stock, looks much cleaner there. also after thios pic i turned the coil around so the ht lead wasn't as visible, much tidier.

The exhaust outlet had this little indent in it, apparently it's common. little epoxy fixed that.

I was never happy with how the kickstarter sat and after i tweaked the pipe the kicker rubbed on it. I swapped it for a late model CR kicker, problem solved.

The most recent pic, i've put a hammerhead shifter on since then though.
Hope some of that helps, I also highly recommend you check to make sure you've got the required pressure in your fork bladders, mine didn't from new. Without that 5 to 6mm of convexivity those marzocchi's are pigs. don't over inflate either though as the slider still has to be able to clear the bladder at full compression.