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Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« on: May 10, 2012, 12:01:26 AM »
I am in the process of re storing some of my plastics. I have cleaned an area of plastic with soap and water as a test area and I even wet sanded another spot, but the clear coat I put on goes on the plastic and then forms little droplets  :( It was dried and rinsed of soap, and I shook the can well, and I sprayed from about a foot or so away. What can I do to prevent this droplet affect?  ???
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline ford832

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2012, 01:14:27 AM »
Years of accumulated dirt and oils as well as whatever is in your detergent.You need an automotive type paint prep degreaser/thinner to clean it off-and it might work.You can try contact cleaner-sometimes it works but different ones seem to leave an oily residue which will cause fish eye.Plastic Renew works pretty good but it looks unnaturally shiny(to me anyway)
and if you hit it with any solvent-or stronger cleaner(even dawn)it will dissolve.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2012, 01:17:22 AM »
Oh ok. But what about the area where I wet sanded? Did the oil and stuff penetrate that deep?  :o And would Lysol, or dish soap, or a very strong degreaser I happen to have (its just like the stuff in SOS pads without the steel wool) work?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline ford832

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2012, 01:42:33 AM »
Nope.Plastic is porous.That's why gas fumes bleed through it and cause graphics to bubble.The only detergent type thing I've ever seen that will do a decent job is a dishwasher.If you have one,pitch it in and let it run it's full cycle and dry completely.(don't use the high temp cycle)
I've done chainsaw parts in ours before and when it hits the drying cycle it gives the house that sweet 2t smell.I've noticed that though it appeals to some around here it tends to make others rather crabby. :<img src=" title="Roll Eyes" class="smiley">
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
I'd rather a full bottle in front of me than a full frontal lobotomy.

Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2012, 02:07:59 AM »
I would be all for trying that, but I reaaaalllyyyy don't think I would be allowed to, if you know what I mean  :<img src=" title="Roll Eyes" class="smiley"> :<img src=" title="Roll Eyes" class="smiley"> I can sneak them in tomorrow MAYBE. But if I can't, is there anything else I can do?  ??? I noticed that as time goes on, the little droplets kind of smooth out, and are completely unnoticeable unless your staring right at my fender about a foot away... Maybe I'm just being picky  ;D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline beaner

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2012, 03:07:38 AM »
I used purple degreaser from Walmart (no name version of the Castrol one) mixed about 50/50 with water as a lubricant while I scuffed the plastics with a scotchbrite pad. Worked  :-*
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2012, 03:16:29 AM »
I actually just got done using a scotch bright pad. It worked well to get the burr from the scratches off and it cleaned it up good. But it still did the droplet thing... As it dries it becomes less and less noticeable. I'm hoping my morning it will come out nice  ;D Probably not though...

On a different note, has anyone made or bought guards for the clutch cover? I'm starting to wear the paint and I would like to pro long the life of it as long as I can.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline factoryX

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2012, 05:19:35 AM »
Could try thinner coats. Your next best bet is a heat gun, simply search on youtube: "Heat gun plastics"
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »


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Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2012, 12:32:06 PM »
Your new user name threw me off for a sec  :P And I have been playing with the idea of a heat gun, but the only reason I'm doing this is to get little black spots out of my gas tank. I had to use sand paper to get them out... I don't think a heat gun would get them out, they were deep in there.

One more predicament. To get some of the deep scratches and dingers out I used some 120 grit paper to rough up the surface and get the scratches out. Then I went back with some much finer paper (1,000 I think) and then cleaned/clear coated it, but it doesn't have that shine to it :( I will try to figure it out, maybe use an even finer paper.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline beaner

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2012, 02:37:11 PM »
Quote
maybe use an even finer paper.

Yes.  If/when you use a scotchbrite pad, always use a lubricant with it. Water works fine.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2012, 02:52:11 PM »
Quote
Yes.  If/when you use a scotchbrite pad, always use a lubricant with it. Water works fine.
Ok, so if I go from 120 grit, to about 600 grit, then 1,000, and then an SOS pad or scotchbright, it should be worthy of the clear coat after a run in the dish washer?  ;D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline beaner

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2012, 03:04:48 PM »
I would try 120-320-scotchbrite, assuming you're using a pad like the maroon coloured ones.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline cnrcpla

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Trouble with clear coat in plastics.
« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2012, 03:09:38 PM »
I don't have the maroon colored ones... I have some blue ones. So I was planning on using that sand paper  8)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »