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Author Topic: Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic  (Read 5529 times)

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Offline partofexile

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #15 on: March 11, 2014, 04:04:28 AM »
Few would dispute that synthetic oil is better, but when mixed appropriately, non synthetic oils are fine.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline beaner

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #16 on: March 11, 2014, 10:25:45 AM »
^ That's a spam post ^
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline Stusmoke

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2014, 10:31:16 AM »
^ That's a spam post ^

yes. indeed it is.
why only discus synth, mineral and blends?
there are other options.... other much better options.


I can get you castor/synth/ceramic oil for $35/L in Melbourne ;)
Let me know if you want some, its amazing stuff

As much as I would love to spend $35 a litre on what is apparently liquid gold, doesn't that kinda defeat hte purpose of me saving money?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline VintageBlueSmoke

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« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2014, 11:29:03 AM »
Quote
As much as I would love to spend $35 a litre on what is apparently liquid gold, doesn't that kinda defeat hte purpose of me saving money?

But are you really saving money if you have an oil realated failure? What if the part is irreplaceable as some vintage stuff is? When my '75 360 Husky handgrenaded, I really felt like a close family member died and honestly considered not riding my old bikes anymore. Like all family deaths, you eventually get over it and move on, but hopefully you learn something from it. (I aparrently did not!)

The other thing to consider is horsepower. Oil in the gas is only their to lubricate the moving parts. Running more oil allows you to run more fuel/air thought the cylinder without generating more heat. A big cause of detonation is heat build up (dieseling). Better oils help prevent it.

I don't know if that stuff is worth more than decent scotch but I bet my bikes would like it more!
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
08 Speed Bird Quad 110, 08 KTM 144, 04 Suzuki LT-Z400, 03 Gas Gas EC, 300,97 Honda CR144, 96 Husky Boy 50, 88 Husky 400WR, 86 Honda CR125R, 80 Can-Am MX6 400, 75 Husky 360CR, 75 Husky 175CC, 73 Penton Jackpiner 175, 72 Husky 250CR, 72 Husky 125, 72 Rickman-Zundapp 125, (2) 71 Bultaco Pursang Mk

Offline Stusmoke

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #19 on: March 11, 2014, 09:38:42 PM »
Quote
As much as I would love to spend $35 a litre on what is apparently liquid gold, doesn't that kinda defeat hte purpose of me saving money?

But are you really saving money if you have an oil realated failure? What if the part is irreplaceable as some vintage stuff is? When my '75 360 Husky handgrenaded, I really felt like a close family member died and honestly considered not riding my old bikes anymore. Like all family deaths, you eventually get over it and move on, but hopefully you learn something from it. (I aparrently did not!)

The other thing to consider is horsepower. Oil in the gas is only their to lubricate the moving parts. Running more oil allows you to run more fuel/air thought the cylinder without generating more heat. A big cause of detonation is heat build up (dieseling). Better oils help prevent it.

I don't know if that stuff is worth more than decent scotch but I bet my bikes would like it more!

No doubt. But I don't see any parts on a '13 250sx becoming irreplaceable anytime soon. There can be no doubt that better oil is better (duh) but I keep an extremely close eye on my motor. It gets better looked after than most africans. Using the mineral stuff means I can run tons of oil through the motor and still be doing it MUCH cheaper than the synthetic stuff. Maybe if I can pick up some extra work I might move to better oil
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline VintageBlueSmoke

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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2014, 10:24:58 PM »
Sorry Stu. I wasn't insinuating anything. Just throwing it out there to consider.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
08 Speed Bird Quad 110, 08 KTM 144, 04 Suzuki LT-Z400, 03 Gas Gas EC, 300,97 Honda CR144, 96 Husky Boy 50, 88 Husky 400WR, 86 Honda CR125R, 80 Can-Am MX6 400, 75 Husky 360CR, 75 Husky 175CC, 73 Penton Jackpiner 175, 72 Husky 250CR, 72 Husky 125, 72 Rickman-Zundapp 125, (2) 71 Bultaco Pursang Mk

Offline Stusmoke

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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2014, 05:44:18 AM »
Sorry Stu. I wasn't insinuating anything. Just throwing it out there to consider.

No apology necessary I wasn't either  :)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline Jeram

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #22 on: March 13, 2014, 09:37:34 AM »
^ That's a spam post ^

yes. indeed it is.
why only discus synth, mineral and blends?
there are other options.... other much better options.


I can get you castor/synth/ceramic oil for $35/L in Melbourne ;)
Let me know if you want some, its amazing stuff

As much as I would love to spend $35 a litre on what is apparently liquid gold, doesn't that kinda defeat hte purpose of me saving money?

$35 a litre is the cheapest oil Ive ever purchased. The last oil I used was 50!

And I mix at 25:1 ratio...

It may add $10 to the cost of a tank of fuel, but thats still $500 cheaper than new Nikasil and new piston, and $300 cheaper than a new rod and a crank rebuild.

If you only use the best then the only thing you can blame an engine failure on is yourself ;)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline mj4trax

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #23 on: March 13, 2014, 04:09:23 PM »
Wow, I've been unhappy about having to pay $16(US)/L for my Motul 800....  guess that's not so bad.  I won't complain. 

I occasionally am tempted to go back to mineral oil (standard yamalube), just to avoid spooge. 
It seems that no matter how crisply I jet my bikes, that they still spit black stuff out the back as long as I'm running high end synthetic oil.  Whenever I run anything non-synthetic (same or richer ratio with no change to jetting) I get a clean exhaust.  I theorize that I'm not getting the combustion chamber hot enough to actually burn the Motul.     
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline VintageBlueSmoke

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« Reply #24 on: March 13, 2014, 05:14:39 PM »
@mj4trax - I am just theorizing here but are you changing your silencer packing before trying different oils?

Maybe you have the same amount of particulate matter but one is heavier so collects as spooge?

« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
08 Speed Bird Quad 110, 08 KTM 144, 04 Suzuki LT-Z400, 03 Gas Gas EC, 300,97 Honda CR144, 96 Husky Boy 50, 88 Husky 400WR, 86 Honda CR125R, 80 Can-Am MX6 400, 75 Husky 360CR, 75 Husky 175CC, 73 Penton Jackpiner 175, 72 Husky 250CR, 72 Husky 125, 72 Rickman-Zundapp 125, (2) 71 Bultaco Pursang Mk

Offline TMKIWI

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« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2014, 09:23:47 PM »
Wow, I've been unhappy about having to pay $16(US)/L for my Motul 800....  guess that's not so bad.  I won't complain. 

I occasionally am tempted to go back to mineral oil (standard yamalube), just to avoid spooge. 
It seems that no matter how crisply I jet my bikes, that they still spit black stuff out the back as long as I'm running high end synthetic oil.  Whenever I run anything non-synthetic (same or richer ratio with no change to jetting) I get a clean exhaust.  I theorize that I'm not getting the combustion chamber hot enough to actually burn the Motul.     

 Motul 800 is designed for very high performance. ie, if you don't thrash the living sh!t out of your bike you will get spooge because of the lack of temperature.
Exactly as you theorize.
Great oil for small bores.
If you can put up with the spooge keep using 800 or if you can't , change to Motul 710 and save some money.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline Stusmoke

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #26 on: March 13, 2014, 09:32:57 PM »
Wow, I've been unhappy about having to pay $16(US)/L for my Motul 800....  guess that's not so bad.  I won't complain. 

I occasionally am tempted to go back to mineral oil (standard yamalube), just to avoid spooge. 
It seems that no matter how crisply I jet my bikes, that they still spit black stuff out the back as long as I'm running high end synthetic oil.  Whenever I run anything non-synthetic (same or richer ratio with no change to jetting) I get a clean exhaust.  I theorize that I'm not getting the combustion chamber hot enough to actually burn the Motul.     

A four litre jug of motorex cross power 4T 15W40 to run through the gearbox falls around the $120 mark. And you don't even want to hear about the 2T crosspower
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline VintageBlueSmoke

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« Reply #27 on: March 13, 2014, 11:40:11 PM »
I use either Castrol GTX or Mobil1 1 in the gearbox. I can't remember what it costs me now but I am sure it is about $40 or more for 6 liters. I run Amsoil for premix. I think it was $90 for 4 liters. I mix with 98 octane pump gas.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
08 Speed Bird Quad 110, 08 KTM 144, 04 Suzuki LT-Z400, 03 Gas Gas EC, 300,97 Honda CR144, 96 Husky Boy 50, 88 Husky 400WR, 86 Honda CR125R, 80 Can-Am MX6 400, 75 Husky 360CR, 75 Husky 175CC, 73 Penton Jackpiner 175, 72 Husky 250CR, 72 Husky 125, 72 Rickman-Zundapp 125, (2) 71 Bultaco Pursang Mk

Offline Stusmoke

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Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« Reply #28 on: March 14, 2014, 12:01:10 AM »
I use either Castrol GTX or Mobil1 1 in the gearbox. I can't remember what it costs me now but I am sure it is about $40 or more for 6 liters. I run Amsoil for premix. I think it was $90 for 4 liters. I mix with 98 octane pump gas.

Ive been running Torco engine oils through my gearbox and its the best stuff ive ever used. I strongly recommend it, it made my old Motul stuff feel like superglue.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »