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Offline cnrcpla

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My next project
« Reply #30 on: April 23, 2013, 03:25:49 AM »
Finally got the @*%^@# $^@($% out. Didn't even mushroom the threads, I figured out a good system of bolts and washers to break it free. Anyways, the engine is out now. I'll be taking pics tomorrow hopefully. My goals for this week are to weld up the frame, its cracked (subframe, don't abandon all hope yet) in three places, and to split the cases. Next week will come sand blasting and hopefully paint for the frame while I wait for parts. What color should I do the frame? Plastics will be yellow, and I'm thinking black, but I'm caught between that and silver  :- 

Clutch is messed up too, I think it's missing the push rod, but I haven't gotten into the guts of the tranny yet. Swing arm bearings seem fine, though I'll likely replace them anyways. Linkage bearings are shot completely. I'm hoping to measure the cyl and bore it accordingly sometime next month. Its looking up, but there is a lot of work ahead........
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline Coop

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My next project
« Reply #31 on: April 24, 2013, 02:33:52 PM »
Clutch is messed up too, I think it's missing the push rod, but I haven't gotten into the guts of the tranny yet.

Take the pressure plate off and lay the bike or engine  over. The rod and ball bearing (if it has one) should fall out.

I vote silver for the frame but I am not a fan of black frames. They look dirty really easy and show scratches more than lighter colors. Especially if you are planning to rattle can the frame, use a lighter color because it will scratch very easily. Even with primer and clear coat, that stuff isn't very durable on a frame.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
- Mike - Don't take life so seriously, nobody gets out alive.

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #32 on: April 24, 2013, 07:53:50 PM »
I actually figured out the clutch issue, this one has no push rod, but a gear and spline shaft that work to separate the plates. Someone must have taken it apart because the spline shaft was freely floating around the clutch basket. I'm leaning towards silver at the moment  ;D

Update: I got the cases split today. Man that job seem so intimidating but it really isn't that bad at all. I got the crank out. Main bearings are fine, but I'm doing a full rebuild anyway. Now, the pin that the con rod is connected to the crank through presses out? I couldn't get it to budge in the press. How much pressure does it take?

Also, to get the mains out, I heard there was an oven trick to heat them up face down and they'll fall right out. What temp do I set the oven at?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline Coop

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« Reply #33 on: April 24, 2013, 08:32:50 PM »
That pin is pressed out. It usually takes some serious pressure. The guy who used to rebuild my cranks (he closed up shop) insisted a 20 ton was the minimum.

I can usually get the bearings out with a socket and hammer (one side often comes out on the crank, you need a puller if that happened). Sometimes I have to apply some heat to the case (propane torch NOT oxy-acetylene). I've never tried using the oven to remove them.

To re-install I freeze the bearings and heat the cases and they almost drop right in. Then freeze the crank and again heat the cases with the new bearings now installed and it is usually a smooth process.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
- Mike - Don't take life so seriously, nobody gets out alive.

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #34 on: April 24, 2013, 09:09:23 PM »
Ohhhh 20 tons... I'll see what the max is for the one in the shop. If it isn't that strong than I guess I'll be sending it out. In the event that I am able to press out the pin, do I need to worry about truing the crank again?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline moto867

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« Reply #35 on: April 25, 2013, 06:39:24 AM »
i rebuild them all the time with a 12 ton press.  lots to it other than pressing it apart and back together.  measure the width of the crank before you begin, side play on the big end of the rod should be between .020-.030".  you should cut the pin in half and press each side out individually to the inside.  that way the munged up pin wont be pressed through the bore of the crank half.  i made an assembly jig to press them back together true.  they usually end up with only about .0005" or so runout.  trueing the crank is critical.  that cyl is plated, no sleeve.  some plated cyls will attract a magnet, that one looks done for.  time for a replate or sleeve job.  honing grooves out of a cyl is never a good idea, cant do it on plated cyl anyway.  even if it was sleeved by the time you honed the grooves out the piston to cyl clearance would be way too big.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #36 on: April 25, 2013, 01:24:28 PM »
Alright, I'll probably send the crank out. I don't need a grenade under me hahah. Damn I was really hoping I could do the cyl myself. Oh well, more $$$.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline eprovenzano

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« Reply #37 on: April 25, 2013, 05:34:42 PM »
The crank is the one area that unless you have the equipment and proper training...  send it out to professional.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
Eric Provenzano
2019 KTM 300 XCW TPI
2000 KTM 300 EXC (Son's)
2001 KTM 380 EXC
Sold 1991 KDX 200... fun play bike
Sold 1999 KX250
Sold 1999 YZ125 (son's)
Sold 2001 Yamaha TTL 125 (son's 1st bike)
Sold but never forgotten 1974 Honda Elsinore CR250M
Sold 1974 Honda Elsinore CR125

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #38 on: April 25, 2013, 06:24:29 PM »
But I'm a pro at everything!  ;D :P hahah I wish... Yeah cranks and rear shocks are the only things I've never messed with on a bike.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #39 on: April 28, 2013, 07:46:02 PM »
Got the frame mostly welded up today. All that's missing is the bracket on the end of the round tubing I welded on. I'm waiting for my wallet to refill with money before I start ordering parts for the motor.

 







« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline SachsGS

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« Reply #40 on: April 29, 2013, 04:03:07 PM »
Usually takes around 10 to 12 tons pressure to separate a Japanese crank. The old Maicos were 18+ tons (find a hiding place in the shop  :-X).
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline eprovenzano

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« Reply #41 on: April 29, 2013, 09:30:15 PM »
Usually takes around 10 to 12 tons pressure to separate a Japanese crank. The old Maicos were 18+ tons (find a hiding place in the shop  :-X).

This is why I would send it out to a professional
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
Eric Provenzano
2019 KTM 300 XCW TPI
2000 KTM 300 EXC (Son's)
2001 KTM 380 EXC
Sold 1991 KDX 200... fun play bike
Sold 1999 KX250
Sold 1999 YZ125 (son's)
Sold 2001 Yamaha TTL 125 (son's 1st bike)
Sold but never forgotten 1974 Honda Elsinore CR250M
Sold 1974 Honda Elsinore CR125

Offline cnrcpla

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My next project
« Reply #42 on: April 29, 2013, 09:40:52 PM »
Yeah I am sending it out. Luckily not to far  ;D Just waiting for money at this point. Seems to be the thing that holds me back the most  :(
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline eprovenzano

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My next project
« Reply #43 on: April 30, 2013, 01:31:41 PM »
Yeah I am sending it out. Luckily not to far  ;D Just waiting for money at this point. Seems to be the thing that holds me back the most  :(

Yea, that's one thing that hold all of us back...   >:-D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
Eric Provenzano
2019 KTM 300 XCW TPI
2000 KTM 300 EXC (Son's)
2001 KTM 380 EXC
Sold 1991 KDX 200... fun play bike
Sold 1999 KX250
Sold 1999 YZ125 (son's)
Sold 2001 Yamaha TTL 125 (son's 1st bike)
Sold but never forgotten 1974 Honda Elsinore CR250M
Sold 1974 Honda Elsinore CR125

Offline cnrcpla

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My next project
« Reply #44 on: May 08, 2013, 01:47:34 AM »
Well I finished welding up the frame. I also fabricated some side plates out of aluminum sheet metal because the ones that came with the bike look very odd. The alu is way lighter than the plastic anyways. I'm holding off on sand blasting the frame until I have time to paint. I'm taking my finals for some classes this week, so it probably wont be until next week. Other than that I'm waiting on parts for the motor. I still have to get the old mains out and send my crank out. I noticed the bottom of the crank case got really scratched up from fragments of the needle bearings getting wedged between that and the crank, can I use a dremmel and smooth out the burrs?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »