1994 KX250 stuck in third.

[Fixxxer22]

Hey people, I am new to the site.  My name is Mitch and I am a ford master technican. I work in a dealer.  My specialty area is heavy engine, diesel engine and drivability, and driveline.   I have had good luck with sites like this.  I frequent a site called offshore only.com for forums like this for help with my boat when I need it.  So, here I am...  Looking for help.  A kid at work bought 4 dirt bikes in a month.  One is the one I have. He bought it broken, took it apart and was afraid to split the cases.  Well, i wasn't.  So i bought it off him. 

I have the engine assay out and cases split.  I used a harmonic balancer puller to get those cases apart. I verified that it was stuck in third, then split the cases and boom.... Nothing, forks look good, shift drum looks good, gears are all intact.  The fluid had a some metallic look to it.  The detent system on the shifter looked great too.  So, what now?  I dont wanna blow a ton of money on this thing but I am an advocate of making it right.  Hell, I own a boat so I am used to blowing money lol. 

Anyone ever see this?  Tips, tricks?  I am waiting on a factory shop manual for it.  It's in the mail.

[riffraff]

Hey there Fixxxer, is the transmission still in the case half and does it shift through the gears now?. Boat= hole in the water you throw money in 

[arnego2]

A bearing could be stuck IMO also it is not an easy task to detect a bent fork.

[Fixxxer22]

Hey there Fixxxer, is the transmission still in the case half and does it shift through the gears now?. Boat= hole in the water you throw money in 

Yeah, when i had the gear clusters in the case half the unit did shift through the gears.  Almost like it fixed itself lol.  And the boat...  I know.  But it is fun.  here is a vid of it in the 70's    And yes, it cost lots to make that olde girl go quick and doing it safely. 

A bearing could be stuck IMO also it is not an easy task to detect a bent fork.

Well, thats kinda where I am at.  I was thinking get a total gasket set, get a crank bearing set, get a clutch, get the remainder of bearings in the case and replace the forks with known good forks.  I need to stop down to the dealer and see if Kawasaki offers them.  I was looking a bit online and see them for about $60 each.  And some were un-available.  I was on rockymountainatvmc last night and i can get a complete gasket kit, crank bearing kit, and a cheap clutch for $200.  Then that leaves me with the remainder of the bearings and forks.   There is is a used engine assy on ebay asking $600.  I'm a little torn.  But if i fix this one I will know its low end condition.  Or i go easy and have a parts engine.  I will most likely fix it. 

[SachsGS]

Very, very carefully inspect the shift actuator/shift drum assembly. I've done lots of Honda quads in the last while with shifter problems - usually damaged and worn selector mechanisms.

[Fixxxer22]

Very, very carefully inspect the shift actuator/shift drum assembly. I've done lots of Honda quads in the last while with shifter problems - usually damaged and worn selector mechanisms.

 

After finding no broken gears or pieces in the crankcase I'm leaning toward what you are saying. I am waiting for a manual and im gonna bring it back up to my work bench at work and tear her down some more here. 

[Fixxxer22]

So, I start pricing this stuff.  I end up looking at around $300 on the low side of trying to fix this lower end.  This does not include forks or a shift drum.  And it makes me weary that I can't really find anything wrong. No bearings are loose, forks seem straight, now it shifts.  So, I made a slightly low ball offer on a low end on eBay with free shipping....  Well. I now own it.  So I guess that's where I'm going to go with it.  Transfer my outer cases and top end and go from there.  I got the bike disassembled and just noticed another big problem.m the mount for the clutch cable on the main case has the upper portion broken off, it won't hold a cable...  So I was up a creek.  I will keep you guys posted.  Let me know anyone if you need anything out of these cases. I would gladly sell to recoup some $ but to recap.  Kick starter was welded to shaft so, im going to have to cut it to retrieve my case.  Was stuck in third now it's not. Bearings feel rough by my automotive feel.  Left case clutch cable retainer top of retainer broken off. Crank is there, feels ok.  And all of trans.  Thanks for the insight guys. It is so much appreciated.  I hope to learn more and contribute one day.  Glad to be part of this site. 

[Coop]

Welded kicker, broken clutch tab, the previous owner sounds like the kind of buyer I try to avoid. One who abuses their bikes with no maintenance.

It is very possible a piece of grit or metal was stuck causing the stuck gears and splitting the cases freed it up. If they neglected the bike enough to just weld the kicker on instead of fix it properly they probably weren't keen on oil changes either.

[Fixxxer22]

Ok guys guys, I have a update for ya.  Due to the broken clutch cable mount and welded on kick starter....  I offered a guy $285 with free shipping for a lower end out of a 1995.  And he took it.  This lower end had a kick shaft and spring. Got a kick lever also from eBay, used with bolt for $30.  Got crank bearings and a gasket set from rocky mountain ATV for $117.  I have $150 in the bike.

If I was getting a lower end I wanted to make damn sure I was looking it over.  The output shaft bearing at sprocket and input shaft bearing At clutch basket were rough. The crankshaft that came in the lower end had excessive side to side play in lower bearing of rod.  The crank that came with it was in spec so I used it. I put a set of all balls crank bearings in it.  My clutch looked awesome and the steels looked like they were the quality stuff like factory.  Did A very quick home on bore and checked ring end gap,  upper was at spec and lower was at new spec.  Well, the bore isn't in the best best shape and needs bored or sleeved later.  Just some light scratching that you can't really catch with a fingernail but not optimal.  Either way I want it to run and I'll bore/sleeve it later.  So I replaced those 2 low end bearings and put her all back together. 

Some small hiccups....  The engine right case is slightly different.  The shift detent mechanism is different and they move a bolt in the outer cover and make another on the clutch cover not go through both covers.  But was an easy fix.  The outer cover on the right had a spot for the bolt, was not drilled but was there.  So I drilled it and installed a bolt.  Next the clutch cover bolt ordeal.  I got a threadded sleeve for that and installed to retain the clutch cover. 

Painted the frame with some engine enamel that matched well for me (at least) and installed engine. I have a surplus of full syn trans fluid from work so I used as gear lube. First fuel yamalube at 32:1. Standard green engine coolant. 

She popped right off.  Float needs set.  I let her run till warm and change the gear oil that I overfilled.  Fire her back up and see how she does.  Pull clutch, shift to first, release...  Nothing.  No movement.  Thinking man, that thing looked so good. Well, i think I'm in the market for a clutch now.  Then I look.  The cable is tight always.  So I loosen at all spots.  Nothing but a little grab now.  So I disconnect the whole thing.  And bam, she's locked.  So I removed the adjuster from the perch (for now) and see how she does...  This thing is a rocket! Runs and shifts well through all gears!  need a few things here and there but its all good.

I checked/measured the cases in comparison for the clutch cable mount and they are not different.  Since this bike was missing the front caliper and such I'm assuming that the clutch cable it has does not belong to it.  I'm ordering one tomorrow.  I'll get around to setting the floats and such soon but I wanted to let you know that with some used stuff and the stones to rip something apart you can do it.  It did in my case help to have all of my every day auto tools but really I didn't need anything more than a press and a harmonic balancer puller.  That case splitter puller deal works but so does my puller. 

Well I guess that's it for the moment,  I'll keep you guys posted.  Thanks!

[Coop]

Good to read! Now post some pictures  .

[Fixxxer22]

Well, i tired to post pics the other night.  Site said they were too large...  Well now i have them on photobucket.  Dont have many pics.  But here is how i got her and took her home.  notice all of her guts in boxes.


The first lower end examined. 


and then frame painted and all back together.  I think this is a larger tank than factory.  Holds 4 gal or so... 


I got a chance to ride her last sunday.  She has so much power and shifts wonderful!  I like it in the trails compared to the 125.  seems like i can lug it a little more with less clutch work.  I bottomed the front forks quite a bit with no signs of leaks.  then i look in the manual afterward and see that they are charged with atmospheric pressure.  and could be under a vacuum depending on where they were sealed.  well, i removd the screws tonight and they both sucked in a large amount of air for a fork.  Im going to quick change the fork oil and get her back to specs. 

all i need is a rear tire, rear bearings, clutch cable and clutch lever and perch.  something to make it look more modern would be nice.  But i dont the graphics kits available will work with my scoops that are on that bigger tank.  Anyone know what kind of tank that is? 

Ill keep ya posted on here.  This thing is a blast!

[eprovenzano]

Nothing like bringing a bike back from the grave.   

[Fixxxer22]

Nothing like bringing a bike back from the grave.   

. Thank you! It's been a quick,cheap, and fun project