To answer your other question, I would bet that very few garage mechanics truly understand how to properly tune and jet a carburetor properly on their dirt bike.
Hey!Take that back!
Although there is some truth in it but it depends on the age of the mechanic.Us older types were around in the carb days and still around in the EFI days.I'd take EFI over a carb anyday.A carburetor simply can't adjust the way fi can.I believe Husaberg has the only closed loop bike system presently so that's a bonus but even so,it's a very simplistic,crude set up.You rarely change a map in a car due to the fact the computer varies it automatically according to conditions.Bike systems generally don't or to a very limited extent because they have a largely fixed set of parameters to go by and need to be this way because of the very limited number of inputs.Of course,to add everything a car has would add a fair amount of weight.A car works so well because it can react to very small variations in inputs.You need to remember a modern day system just doesn't alter the air fuel ratio.It also varies timing,idle speed etc and adjusts to air temp,pressure,itake airflow speed,engine temp,load,gear among other things.Add to that the fact the new oxygen sensors are now called air/fuel ratio sensors due to the fact that they no longer use .46v as a rich/lean threshold but adjust to the exact reading.Carburetors are to fuel injection what a stick is to an AK47.BUT,with my truck,if something goes wrong I take it in to work and use the gear to fix it.If my bike was fi, in some cases you'd be forced to resort to a trip to the dealer.Therefore,if it was up to me,I'd keep fi in vehicles and stay with the carb on the bike.It's simple to tune,has less parts,complication and weight,and when properly set up,works well enough.