61
Yeap cleaning them is the first thing to try anyway. I like the seal safers after using those no more leaks.
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62
Technical / Putting in new top end and reeds, opinions.
« on: May 19, 2012, 02:11:59 PM »
+1 any company putting in sleeves should be able to measure your bore.
63
Technical / Putting in new top end and reeds, opinions.
« on: May 18, 2012, 11:42:07 AM »
Wiseco comes only in one size if STD, Woessner Pistons are forged too those come in 3 sizes. Not sure if they do pistons for the KX85 though.
Have a look http://wossneronline.com/forged_pistons/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50_64_97&products_id=835
Have a look http://wossneronline.com/forged_pistons/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50_64_97&products_id=835
64
Technical / How do you check crank bearings?
« on: May 17, 2012, 10:11:31 PM »
It is quite easy, the tranny, stay in place when you take off the flywheel site first. I do it with my press and don't lose the srew with holds the gear cam shift. I did make my press small so I can do it with the gear still into the case. But to do it with the tranny out is not so back neither.
65
Technical / Putting in new top end and reeds, opinions.
« on: May 17, 2012, 07:14:22 PM »
With 70 hours on that little 85 cc piston Wiseco is your only option IMO.
I do 40 hours on my YZ250.
I do 40 hours on my YZ250.
66
Technical / How do you check crank bearings?
« on: May 17, 2012, 07:12:46 PM »
Do it yourself, it is not as difficult, you need a flywheel puller and case splitter.
Other than that a press would be nice. If not find someone who has or get dry ice.
With dry ice you cool down the roller ball bearings and with an oven you heat the case up to 150 degrees.
Bearing should just drop in.
The reason to do it yourself is that along the years you have to do it about once a year if you ride each weekend.
More often if you ride 4 to 6 hours a week.
Other than that a press would be nice. If not find someone who has or get dry ice.
With dry ice you cool down the roller ball bearings and with an oven you heat the case up to 150 degrees.
Bearing should just drop in.
The reason to do it yourself is that along the years you have to do it about once a year if you ride each weekend.
More often if you ride 4 to 6 hours a week.
67
Technical / How do you check crank bearings?
« on: May 16, 2012, 07:43:14 PM »
That's right one or two times I do just a bearing change (incl. the oil seals) and the con rod kit. I like Hot Rod.
68
Technical / How do you check crank bearings?
« on: May 16, 2012, 06:14:12 PM »
I think compared to the damage a failed bearing could cause the preventive repair or exchange of parts is economical feasible.
2 Bearings if OEM come to about US$ 60 both, the needle bearing OEM about 95 incl washers. Better a con rod kit for 105 or so.
That is the minimum I use.
If you are sure there is no leak great, but a play in the bearing will make the seal fail. That is the problem.
2 Bearings if OEM come to about US$ 60 both, the needle bearing OEM about 95 incl washers. Better a con rod kit for 105 or so.
That is the minimum I use.
If you are sure there is no leak great, but a play in the bearing will make the seal fail. That is the problem.
69
Technical / How do you check crank bearings?
« on: May 16, 2012, 05:52:41 PM »
The best way is to do just all, I mean you have to split cases to do one why not doing both?
And the flywheel side is the most dangerous leak you could have. Once the seal refuses to seal at WOT you melt your piston.
I do bottom end at 150 to 160 hours, if not a bearing forces me to do it earlier.
And the flywheel side is the most dangerous leak you could have. Once the seal refuses to seal at WOT you melt your piston.
I do bottom end at 150 to 160 hours, if not a bearing forces me to do it earlier.
70
Technical / Linkage grease
« on: May 16, 2012, 02:36:32 PM »
No grease will hold out forever unfortunately, 3 to 4 times a year a re-grease job should be in order, more if you ride in mud a lot 
71
Technical / Is this too lean?
« on: May 16, 2012, 02:26:53 PM »
Change one thing at the time, start with float height and go from pilot > needle > to main.
I run 45 pilot with a JD needle, on stock I'd run 48 height and average humidity comes close to mine too.
Stock needle 3 rd position, JD needle (red) 4rth position.
I run 45 pilot with a JD needle, on stock I'd run 48 height and average humidity comes close to mine too.
Stock needle 3 rd position, JD needle (red) 4rth position.
72
Technical / Bottom End Rebuild: Necessary Parts
« on: May 16, 2012, 02:08:56 PM »
Just replace the 2 roller bearings their oilseals and the conrod needle bearing plus spacers. I don't think that the crank goes as easy if you have the bearings with little movement or an unsmooth roll.
I change bearings every 150 to 160 hours if I don't get a shot crank bearing first. Every second to third time of crank bearing change (incl. conrod kit) I give it a new crank. So the crankshaft sees about 450 hours. About the same amount for a cylinder. 4 times piston change and 4 to 6 times replating and a new cylinder is most advisable.
Now the small bearings of the water pump and/or PV govenor are even more sensitive. A good brand somehow won't make it over 80 hours.
You'll need a flywheel puller and a case splitter, if you have access to a press, the crank bearing should be no problem. If not put your bearings into a freezer, better even on dry ice and heat the cases to about 150 degress celsius. drip some water on the case when it sizzles you are good. Work with gloves That way those bearings should drop right in there.
Good luck
I change bearings every 150 to 160 hours if I don't get a shot crank bearing first. Every second to third time of crank bearing change (incl. conrod kit) I give it a new crank. So the crankshaft sees about 450 hours. About the same amount for a cylinder. 4 times piston change and 4 to 6 times replating and a new cylinder is most advisable.
Now the small bearings of the water pump and/or PV govenor are even more sensitive. A good brand somehow won't make it over 80 hours.
You'll need a flywheel puller and a case splitter, if you have access to a press, the crank bearing should be no problem. If not put your bearings into a freezer, better even on dry ice and heat the cases to about 150 degress celsius. drip some water on the case when it sizzles you are good. Work with gloves
That way those bearings should drop right in there. Good luck
73
Technical / How do you check crank bearings?
« on: May 16, 2012, 01:57:32 PM »
I use a large screw driver as leverage to see if there is movement on both sides of the crank shaft.
74
Technical / 2003 YZ250 Project... need some help and some direction!
« on: May 05, 2012, 09:28:51 PM »
For the BB I'd look for Eric Gorr.