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Technical / CR 85 loses spark
« on: June 23, 2014, 01:34:29 AM »
Does it consistently do it after 10-20 minutes or is it fine some days? What sound does it make when it dies?
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20
Vintage Two Strokes / Pro-circuit pipes?
« on: April 18, 2014, 08:45:11 PM »Quotedoesnt run too well with 195 main jet it just drowns in gooWow! no wonder. Where did you come up with a 195 main?
Here is a good baseline jetting start using the PWK. Tweak it from here for your temps and
altitudes: 168 main, 55 pilot, 1370M needle with clip on 3nd and the airscrew 1 1/2 turns out.
dogger
There you have it, straight from the Dog's mouth!
Sorry couldn't help myself
21
General Two Stroke Talk / 2015 KTM 125 SX
« on: April 15, 2014, 09:09:54 AM »Maybe they will be selling a bike with no coloured plastics or graphics and you get to choose what make you want it to be, KTM, Husqvarna, or Husaberg. A new form of custom bike building.
I smell a Yamaha fan boy
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: March 14, 2014, 12:01:10 AM »I use either Castrol GTX or Mobil1 1 in the gearbox. I can't remember what it costs me now but I am sure it is about $40 or more for 6 liters. I run Amsoil for premix. I think it was $90 for 4 liters. I mix with 98 octane pump gas.
Ive been running Torco engine oils through my gearbox and its the best stuff ive ever used. I strongly recommend it, it made my old Motul stuff feel like superglue.
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: March 13, 2014, 09:32:57 PM »Wow, I've been unhappy about having to pay $16(US)/L for my Motul 800.... guess that's not so bad. I won't complain.
I occasionally am tempted to go back to mineral oil (standard yamalube), just to avoid spooge.
It seems that no matter how crisply I jet my bikes, that they still spit black stuff out the back as long as I'm running high end synthetic oil. Whenever I run anything non-synthetic (same or richer ratio with no change to jetting) I get a clean exhaust. I theorize that I'm not getting the combustion chamber hot enough to actually burn the Motul.
A four litre jug of motorex cross power 4T 15W40 to run through the gearbox falls around the $120 mark. And you don't even want to hear about the 2T crosspower
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: March 12, 2014, 05:44:18 AM »Sorry Stu. I wasn't insinuating anything. Just throwing it out there to consider.
No apology necessary I wasn't either
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: March 11, 2014, 09:38:42 PM »QuoteAs much as I would love to spend $35 a litre on what is apparently liquid gold, doesn't that kinda defeat hte purpose of me saving money?
But are you really saving money if you have an oil realated failure? What if the part is irreplaceable as some vintage stuff is? When my '75 360 Husky handgrenaded, I really felt like a close family member died and honestly considered not riding my old bikes anymore. Like all family deaths, you eventually get over it and move on, but hopefully you learn something from it. (I aparrently did not!)
The other thing to consider is horsepower. Oil in the gas is only their to lubricate the moving parts. Running more oil allows you to run more fuel/air thought the cylinder without generating more heat. A big cause of detonation is heat build up (dieseling). Better oils help prevent it.
I don't know if that stuff is worth more than decent scotch but I bet my bikes would like it more!
No doubt. But I don't see any parts on a '13 250sx becoming irreplaceable anytime soon. There can be no doubt that better oil is better (duh) but I keep an extremely close eye on my motor. It gets better looked after than most africans. Using the mineral stuff means I can run tons of oil through the motor and still be doing it MUCH cheaper than the synthetic stuff. Maybe if I can pick up some extra work I might move to better oil
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: March 11, 2014, 10:31:16 AM »^ That's a spam post ^
yes. indeed it is.
why only discus synth, mineral and blends?
there are other options.... other much better options.
I can get you castor/synth/ceramic oil for $35/L in Melbourne
Let me know if you want some, its amazing stuff
As much as I would love to spend $35 a litre on what is apparently liquid gold, doesn't that kinda defeat hte purpose of me saving money?
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: February 03, 2014, 10:31:48 PM »
Ok I will definitely bear alll of that in mind.
Thanks for all the info guys, greatly appreciated
Thanks for all the info guys, greatly appreciated
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: February 03, 2014, 12:05:43 AM »Yes, the trick is to decipher the codes that follow motor oil to determine what is best for you. They intentionally make it difficult
I would doubt you need to run richer (and remember more oil means leaner jetting) as it is only the breakdown of the oil that would cause a failure and if you are changing it regularly, and are jetted correctly, it should be alright. I would think probably to MOST important things to do would be power valve and silencer maintenance. Both would probably need more and frequent attention.
While you remind me, what is a good time frame for repacking the silencer?
29
Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: January 31, 2014, 12:39:51 AM »I don't have any good information so you can stop reading now...
My Dad swore up and down by natural oils. As a professional race engine builder, you had to put some weight behind his observations. However, synthetic oils have developed by leaps and bounds since he was building race engines. This is what I do know...
Between 1990 and 2001, I raced just about every weekend...somewhere. I also rode during the week "for training". I did oil changes and cleaned the filter every day I rode. I used Castrol GTX 20w50 in the bottom ends, some kind of specific foam filter oil and premixed Silcoline synthetic at 40:1. I would change the plug before any national or GNCC just because.
I had no oil related failures in that time. In 1998, I raced 48 events on the same piston/ring. When we tore down the bottom end, it looked new! (We big bored the top it was so bad!). I even had two events where the drain plug came out and dumped the oil in the forest somewhere. I finished 1st in one of those events and 3rd in the other.
I am not saying mineral is better than synthetic...but my guess is that it is not so much better that you should care. We live in a "throw away society". Do you really care if your piston lasts 5 minutes longer or your clutch lasts 1/3rd of a ride longer? Do you really care if your gears last 25 years? No. You plan to ride your bike 1, 3, or 5 years..sell it and buy the lastest weapon of choice.
I run synthetic now because I'm stupid. It is twice as expensive as mineral but I don't know what a brand of good mineral oil is so I don't want to chance it. I used to have good links for oil information. It is out there and not brand specific. (You probably need to be an engineer to understand it.) I'll see if I can dig it up or you can just Google like crazy!
Actually thats basically exactly what I'm after. The basic maths is easy: If I average 50 hours out of a piston with ring changes at 25 and hte full top end at 50 on synthetic oils for lets say $90 for 4 litres, I switch to mineral and do it at 49. I pay about $150-170 for a full top ned including all bearings and gaskets depending on the exchange rates at the time. So I would save rough3-5 dollars on the top end, in exchange for paying an extra 45 dollars the synthetic oil. Doesn't mate much sense to me. Carbon build up? My cylinder gets cleaned and cared for better than half of my town's residents. Couldn't care less about that. Smoke? isn't the smoke one of the reasons we're all on this forum, reading this?
I'm on a tight budget, I'd rather mix it richer, and go up a main and clip size than pay double the money for the oil.
Thanks everyone, I appreciate it.
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Non-Moto / Engine oil: Mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic
« on: January 30, 2014, 09:42:08 AM ». Just looked at some amsoil and it came in at $93 for 3.7 litres. Thats ****ed. Royally. I could mix and jet for 20:1 and still save money with mineral. So in all seriousness: What kind of losses am I looking at? Wear? Performance? Ego?
That's what I paid for a case of 12, 1 liter bottles of Dominator
Buy a decent brand name mineral oil and mix at 32-1. You'll be fine.
Thanks, any suggestions?