Messages

181

General Two Stroke Talk / Re: Hello from Central Texas

« on: April 18, 2010, 09:48:38 PM »

Yeah Dallas is close enough to me im in Austin and i'm going to be looking to get my head milled/squish done pretty soon to get some snap....send me some info in a pm if you want the business,i will be looking to get it done as i really dont have anyone around here to do it for me anymore

182

General Two Stroke Talk / Re: Hello from Central Texas

« on: April 16, 2010, 10:05:42 AM »

Will do still waiting on some plastic to make it in.....should be in today and ill post it up after i slap it on.....Thanks for the welcome  

183

Technical / Re: What two stroke pre mix is best?

« on: April 15, 2010, 05:44:55 PM »

I have run Maxima 927@40:1 for years w/o a single failure on all kinds and sized bikes,and will be running it in my 250 i just picked up

184

Technical / Re: break in procedures

« on: April 15, 2010, 05:39:55 PM »

Break-in depends largely on the type of piston you use. If you install a cast piston (OEM, Vertex, ProX, etc) then very little break-in is required. A single heat cycle, and a few minutes of heavy throttle with moderate rpms for ring seating is all that is necessary.

If you use a forged piston, break-in is a little more important. Forging by it's nature produces a part with trapped internal stresses that need to be relieved. Heat cycling is vital to relive those internal stress points.

This is the appropriate method for breaking in a forged piston:

From Moto814

1) Assemble the engine properly and torque all fasteners to specs.

2) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

3) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

4) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

5) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

6) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), take the bike off the stand and put it in gear. Take it for a ride. During this ride you want to keep the engine under a load at all times. Do not coast. Do not let the bike idle. Do not allow the engine to stay at one RPM. Riding on a mild slope is fine for this, as is slightly dragging the rear brake the entire time. Do this for about 15-20 minutes. Then shut the bike off.

7) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

8 ) Re-torque the head and base nuts.

9) Go ride.

The cool-down steps are crucial to this operation. You must let the engine cool completely for the break in process to work properly.

Also, do the warm up procedure I outline here before EVERY ride. Your top ends will last much longer if you do.

-Steve

This is how i break in all my motors and have never had a failure  

185

Technical / Re: Seat Cover and graphics

« on: April 15, 2010, 05:34:15 PM »

Putting graphics on depends on how comfortable you are installing them or if you have done it before...i personaly stick mine on dry,start in the middle and go back and forth like a typewriter till you get them fully layed down.Some people use a light coat of windex on them so you can move them around then squeegee out the access.As far as installing seat covers i just line the nose up and put a few staples in there then move to the rear and do the same,then work from the middle pulling it down and stapling it trying to keep it as centered as you can....hope this helps

186

General Two Stroke Talk / Hello from Central Texas

« on: April 15, 2010, 05:21:10 PM »

Noob here from central texas that just came back from the darkside(4 strokes) and just picked up a 04 CR-250R.I had a 02 250 but went with the 450 in 04 but now back enjoying the 2 strokes again

Cheers