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Messages - Shadow

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1
Thanks but those two things have been solved for a while already.


Coop, haha damn! That must've produced a few minutes of swearing.
Speaking of case splitting... The curse just hit my 125 while I was at the track, and either the shifter pedal or transmission went kaput. Will take a closer look at it after the weekend but I did notice the bike leaking transmission oil between the front chain gear shaft so at the very least its seal has gone bad. I might as well split the case though as it's not been done for the past 8 years.  :-[
Might be a good time to learn to do that.

2
Well don't I feel stupid now. I was taking another peek up the drain hole and noticed that the end part of the helicoil hasn't actually snapped, it was simply bent to the side that it looked like it was.



True about splitting the cases though, would've been next on my list.

3
Fortunately not all stainless steel alloys are nonmagnetic. The only problem is, that I can't find a small enough magnet I could get pass the 5mm or so space that's immediately after the hole.  "Made for picking up tools and bolts from hard to reach places" my ass. All those tools get stuck on the small space.

Had some leftover fork oil that I used to fill the gearbox almost completely to try to flush the bit out but no luck.


Sachs, my first try on fixing the issue was using a thread tap but the threads were so badly stripped that there wasn't enough material anymore for working M10 thread. The helicoil seems to work fine, at least for the past dozen or so bolt removals and reinstalls.


Seems I'm starting to run out of options, unless you gentlemen might have any suggestions.

4
Just my luck. Everything went fine until I snapped that little end bit off from the helicoil insert. Damn thing dropped into the gearbox.
Any good ideas how to get it out without removing the engine or splitting the cases? Tried flushing it out with transmission oil but that worked only on the aluminum shavings.
I can't just leave the bloody thing in there, can I?

5
Heh, goes to show how little trouble I've had with stripped threads 'cause I didn't even know there was thread inserts like that.
Worth a shot I guess. Thanks!

6
And the curse strikes once again!

Stripped the threads from the gearbox oil change hole on my 250.
Went so bad that a plain thread tool is not enough to fix the threads. Is there any other option I could try before removing the engine and drilling the hole to the next thread size?

7
General Two Stroke Talk / How do you train?
« on: January 20, 2012, 06:31:49 PM »
Strength training almost exclusively. Then again, I don't race so much as just ride for fun.

8
Started thinking about that 125.. As it gives off that Booooaaaa sound when giving it gas on the low rpms, which means it's too lean, yet it still fouls plugs in the low rpms, could it be because of too small pilot jet and too much oil in the gas?

I mean, right now it has #35 pilot jet, and the oil:gas ratio I've been using has ranged from 1:32 to 1:25. So, because of the small pilot jet, it's too lean (ie, not enough gas in the fuel/air mixture) when opening throttle from the low rpms, and because there's so much oil and not enough gas, it doesn't burn properly and the cylinder/spark plug keeps getting washed over and over with unburnt fuel/oil mixture.

Could this be the reason why it doesn't work properly, or am I waay off base here?

9
Photos & Videos / Re: Second time on the 250.
« on: September 14, 2011, 11:36:46 PM »
o_O Factoryx, sure you're seeing the same pics as I? You mean that bent up old thing? :P

ACMX, pretty good at first, but I'm not sure whether the filter was just clogging up or the plug was starting to foul 'cause I can't ride that bike in the powerband properly but at the end it started bogging on the low rpms.

Mountain goat, hence I said "eat dirt". Which is exactly what happens when one falls headfirst into the sand there. :D

Thanks scotty and coop.

10
Jetting issues..

With both bikes too.   ::)


First the 125.

Current settings:
Main jet #360
pilot jet #35
Needle 2nd clip from top
Spark plug was a 9 if I recall correctly

Works fine on the track in high rpms, but low to mid rpm range throttle response isn't too crisp, also will foul a plug if not ridden wfo most of the riding time. Rode an 4-5km long enduro trail just two times and it fouled a plug.

And the 250.

Current settings:
main jet #160
pilot jet #52
Needle clip 3rd pos from top
spark plug 9, I think. Will need to check.

Works fine on mid to high rpms but lacks a bit of response on low rpms. Also, my current riding skills don't allow riding the bike in high rpms as it should be and it's starting to foul a plug + losing throttle response even more on the low rpms.


Track I ride at the most is a deep, soft sandy track at about 70 meters from sea level. What's really bad about the track, is that it kicks up a lot of dust that clogs up the air filter in no time making the bikes behave even more like they're too rich.
Using Shell's castor based 2-stroke oil with 1:25 ratio and 98 octane gas.

What would you guys recommend to change on the bikes for fixing the issues?

11
Photos & Videos / Second time on the 250.
« on: September 12, 2011, 06:19:13 AM »
Total goon attack but still had the time of my life. :D





Trying desperately to get the damn thing to turn. :D






Mad whip skillz!








Almost ate dirt 'cause I hit neutral on accident.






12
Finally had time to take a look at the issue.

Surprisingly easy, had I noticed it earlier I wouldn't have had to remove the carb. The plastic wire cover wasn't seated properly on the throttle side and caused the slide to not go completely down.

Thanks for the footpeg pics msmola. It seems I have an '01 kx250 instead of '02.

13
General Two Stroke Talk / Re: Poll: Chest protection
« on: August 24, 2011, 12:56:34 PM »
EVS BJ22 Ballistic jersey. One of the reasons I don't have broken bones from riding.

14
It seems this technical section will be my favorite one, and in order to not clutter it up with a dozen different threads, I'll keep my dumb questions regarding bike maintenance and repair constrained into this one thread.

So, I've got two bikes, '01 or '02 kx125 and '01 or '02 kx250 which are definitely cursed and work at purely random intervals.

Not entirely sure on the exact model year as apparently both bikes have a VIN that should not exist. 10th digit on them both points them to be a year '90 but that's simply impossible.

The '99-'02 service manual's procedures for L3 and L4 models (ie '01 or '02) are the ones to follow with both these bikes but it doesn't differentiate more accurately which one they might be.

First issue comes with the 250.

I just got the bike back together after taking it mostly apart but now the idle speed is way higher than it ever should be. It's not screaming with full throttle, more in the low-mid range, and adjusting the idle screw has no effect on the rpms.
This is definitely because of something I did or did not do while putting the bike back together, but any suggestions of what might be wrong are welcome so once I start taking things apart, I might have some idea what to look for.

Another thing, told you they're cursed, I noticed that when the bike is on its side, it leaks transmission oil from where the clutch attaches to the motor(see pic). Not a lot, and only when it's laid on its side, but still I'd like to fix that. Now, how severe is this and will it require splitting the engine case, or is there some smart way to go about fixing it?


15
Technical / Re: KIPS removal trouble
« on: July 22, 2011, 12:18:44 PM »
That's the info I was needing.

Thank you good sir.

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