You need to differentiate between HP and "rideability". My bike has 67 HP (go ahead and argue it, but do you OWN one???) and it is FAR easier to ride than anything else I've ridden. Part 3 is coming soon and I'll say more there.
OK,I'll bite and argue that.For future reference the best place to measure HP figures isn't at the sales brochure.
Likely that figure is arrived at due to a miscalculation of the conversion factor when going from the German newtons per frogwart to H.P.
BTW," the lipstick on the pig and dolling up a steed then mounting it" references made me rather uncomfortable
Now then MS,I wouldn't have ripped on you if I had gotten to read part three.Until that time,I feel free to wallow in my own crapulance.
Seriously, MXlord, I'd agree with MS though I'd do it a little differently.What you have is one of the best off road bikes available.Everyone raves about KTM's and their good woods bikes(I've had them ) but it's just that they come pre set up.
The biggest single thing is suspension.If you send it off somewhere make sure you don't represent your ability as being more than it is to the tech or you won't be happy with the result.
Flywheel weight-definately.About a 10-12 oz would suit by the sounds of it.
Throttle cam.You can buy them but you can also adjust your own.Simply file the ramp down some where the cable rides.All this does is give you a longer throttle pull to reach full power but makes it far easier to modulate the power.You can mark it on your grip and housing then keep filing and checking until you get the desired result.
Next,get a dial gauge that will fit your plug hole so you can determine TDC and set your timing on about a 1 degree retard.This really smooths the power,adds a measure of detonation protection and is easy to do.Typically they are off from factory due to production tolerances and whatnot and are too advanced.I know mine was.I can provide a good link for the procedure if you're interested.
As for a powervalve,many think this makes modern day bikes too abrupt but really all they do is broaden the power band-a definite good thing.If the bike hits too hard that's just because it's set up like an MXer.
After all this,you can adjust your gearing.If you now find it too soft off the bottom,add a tooth or two to the rear-if you want it softer yet,take one or two away.
What you should now have is a mellow,easily controlled but still powerfull, 2t,blue,more reliable,less expensive,KTM eater.Enjoy.