Getting the bike ready for 2011

[ACMX]

It has not been serviced for about 15-25 hours of riding (other than the air filter, oil, and just lubing the chain), I just got some extra cash. What's the best I can do for my bike with $200 to get it ready for 2011?

Oh and I want a black tank to go with my new graphics but I cant afford one, how good would black plastic spray paint work? Another option I have is some black FX backgrounds.

[cmiller493]

Get your suspension serviced: Change the oil, check for wear and tear on seals and bushings.
Service your bearings: Linkage, swing arm etc.

Not sure how durable the spray paint would be. Im sure if you went to a paint shop somebody there could lead you in the right direction. Cant wait to see the bike with new plastics and graphics!

[ACMX]

I serviced the front suspension 25 hrs of riding ago (seals and fluid). Should it be good?
I definitely need to grease the linkage. How else would I go about servicing the rear suspension?

[GlennC]

I would do the top end before anything else on a 125. Get a service manual first if you don't have one.
You may get away with ring(s) only.
Do you have a Micrometer and a dial bore gage? If not a good shop should not charge to check the clearances.
You can check your big end rod bearing while you have the cylinder off.

Do all of the cheap stuff, Repack the linkage and steering head bearings, true your wheels, Take a torque wrench to all the important bolts - Fork tube, Handle bars, All suspension bolts. Remove and clean your brake calipers, Put anti-seize on the threads. Replace the cotter keys on your foot pegs. replace the water pump seal.

That should keep you busy for a while...

[snook620]

What kind of riding do you do?

If you trail ride I would get some tires and fresh plastic. Ive never heard good things with painting gas tanks but Ive never tryed either. Clarke sells a black one for $200.

If you race I would get a top end, service the suspension, new tires, repack the silencer, check the clutch, and buy a few extra air filters.

[ACMX]

Looks like ill be getting a piston and rings for sure then.

I would do the top end before anything else on a 125. Get a service manual first if you don't have one.
You may get away with ring(s) only.
Do you have a Micrometer and a dial bore gage? If not a good shop should not charge to check the clearances.
You can check your big end rod bearing while you have the cylinder off.

Do all of the cheap stuff, Repack the linkage and steering head bearings, true your wheels, Take a torque wrench to all the important bolts - Fork tube, Handle bars, All suspension bolts. Remove and clean your brake calipers, Put anti-seize on the threads. Replace the cotter keys on your foot pegs. replace the water pump seal.

That should keep you busy for a while...

I do not have any equipment besides the basic tools. I will probably have to write all of this down and take it to my dads. I'm a crummy mechanic myself. I can do wheel bearings and easy stuff. But I don't live with my dad so he never really gets the chance to teach me about most of the in depth things.

[cmiller493]

Like I said Andrew, the internet is your friend, there are plenty of videos for rebuilding topends, regreasing linkages and all the sorts. But it never hurts to have somebody experienced help you for the first time doing something that way you dont make any stupid mistakes on anything.

[ACMX]

Think I'll need gaskets as well?

[GlennC]

Think I'll need gaskets as well?

If You are referring to a top end rebuild, Yes you will need a gasket set.
If you don't need a re-bore, And are running a stock plated cylinder, I would have a local shop run a brush hone through the cylinder. You don't want to make the bore any larger, Just scuff it up, So the rings will seat.
If they don't have a brush hone, Or don't know what you are talking about, Pick up your parts and back away slowly.

[riffraff]

Brush hone? Is that another name for a Flex hone?

[GlennC]

Brush hone? Is that another name for a Flex hone?

A brush hone has bristles that are flexible, They are good for deglazing the bore.
A ball hone will remove the plating (good for iron sleeves though).
Both could be considered flex hones.
If no brush hone is available, I have deglazed a plated cylinder with scotch bright with no ill effects. I would not recommend it to a beginner though (Find an old guy with a limp ).

[Coop]

You don't need a brush hone, you can use WD-40 (or something similar if you are anti WD-40 lol) and a new scotch brite pad to restore the crosshatching if the cylinder is within spec. Just takes some elbow grease.

Top-ends on two strokes really are very easy. They seem scary and the way some guys talk they sound more daunting than they really are. But once you do one you will wonder what you were worried about  .

You are good with video, just take pics/videos anywhere you get stuck and we will gladly help you here. You can do it dude!

[SachsGS]

I'd hold off on painting that tank.Plastic breathes and the paint will just bubble and fall off.

[Coop]

Yeah I forgot to mention, even with the Plastic Fusion paint, tanks will bubble and crack. It works pretty well on other parts, but not tanks.

[ACMX]

The only part I really want to cover is the bottom of the tank below where the graphics are applied, and up by the gas cap. Would Factory Effex black background graphics work?