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Offline umberto_32

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KX 100 won't start - All the Usual Fixes won't work
« on: June 23, 2012, 10:27:48 PM »
Hello fellow two stroke lovers.  I have been enjoying the website for a long time, but this is the first time I have been compelled to post on the forum.  I am coming to you with a problem that I am having a hard time fixing.  I have been successfully rebuilding two strokes for nearly all my riding life, and have never ran into this issue before.  I purchased a 2002 KX 100 from Craigslist for a buddy bike.  The bike had a bad cylinder and piston, which I replaced with all brand new Kawasaki parts I purchased on e-Bay (still in Kawasaki bags/boxes from a dealer in Texas).  I followed the specs in the Clymer manual, and the bike started on the third kick after the rebuild.  It idled very high, so I adjusted the idle screw and started it again.  It idled very well and sounded crisp.  I followed my tried and true break in method by riding at no more than 1/2 throttle until warm, then letting it cool off.  During the first ride it bogged a bit, but ran okay.  I then rode it at no more than 3/4 throttle until warm. During this ride it ran great at first, but soon lost power and eventually died.  I thought it had fouled the plug, so I replaced with a brand new one.  I let it sit for a while and then tried to start it again.  No dice.  After exhausting my leg, I took it in to check fuel flow and spark.  The bike is getting spark, and it appears to be timed correctly.  When I pulled the spark plug, it was dry and did not smell like raw fuel.  I used an inspection camera to look in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and everything looked great (but dry).  The piston is freely spinning in the cylinder, and there are no marks on it or the cylinder wall.  When you put your finger over the spark plug hole, it blows your finger off, indicating good compression.  I checked the pet**** on the tank for flow, and gas flowed out into the gas can.  I took the carb off and cleaned every opening and passage with carb cleaner.  I even removed the jets and ran carb cleaner and compressed air through them.  Still nothing.  I pulled the float bowl plug on the bottom of the carb, and gas ran out.  I am convinced it is getting gas to the carb.  I checked the reed valve, and it appears unobstructed and will open if you put your finger down the reed block.

As a last resort (knowing it's not really good for a two stroke), I sprayed some Ether in the carb to see if it would start.  Once again, no dice.  When you open the throttle, the engine tone changes, but it does not sound like it wants to start.  I pulled the plug, and could not smell the Ether on the plug, or gas for that matter.  I then opened up the slide on the carb and tried squirting through the carb into the reed block.  Still nothing in the cylinder.  I am guessing I have an obstruction in the fuel path, but I'm not sure which thing to look at.  Any suggestions you guys might have would be really appreciated.  Thank you in advance.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline SachsGS

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KX 100 won''t start - All the Usual Fixes won''t work
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2012, 03:55:20 PM »
Get a compression tester and check the compression,you need 100 psi to run and you should see at least 150 psi.Is your spark blue (not white) and flywheel key not sheared?Get a spritzer bottle ,fill it with pre-mix,and spray a little into the carb with the slide open.Reeds o.k.?No obvious air leaks-ripped carb boot,blown base gasket/head gasket,crank seal popped out etc.?

If you have a correct spark,at the right time,fuel and sufficient compression the engine will run.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline citabjockey

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KX 100 won''''t start - All the Usual Fixes won''''t work
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2012, 07:11:32 PM »
It could be a completely blown main seal. Not firing with ether is strange. If you pull the mag cover do you smell gas in there? If its the clutch side main seal there may be tranny oil in the crankcase. So I would:

- measure compression. Testers are not expensive. Again, 100+ psi should allow it to at least fire.
- do a leak down check (plug the exhaust, intake manifolds and the plug hole, put 6 PSI in there and with an accurate vacuum gauge (that reads pressure as well as vacuum) watch the pressure for 10 min or so. Should not lose any.
- if it shows a leak spray soapy water around the manifolds, the base gasket, the magneto and the transmission breather to find the leak. Fix that.

How do you know the ignition  timing is correct?

« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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Offline cnrcpla

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KX 100 won''''''''t start - All the Usual Fixes won''''''''t work
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2012, 07:25:02 PM »
Definitely do a leak check. If one of the crank seals is gone (most likely the one on the stater side seeing as the plug is dry indicating no trans fluid in the cylinder), then that would be where it is sucking air and not getting a good amount of fuel. Of course a compression test just to rule it out as well.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline umberto_32

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Thank you for the great responses.  I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a compression tester.  I'll give it a check and let you know what I find.  I did not find fuel in the oil (I had to take the clutch cover off to replace the pull rod) or in stator cover which I took off to check the timing.  The bottom end had been recently replaced by the owner before the guy I bought it from, with a Hot Rods rod and new bearing and seals.  I am beginning to think reeds.  I think they are not opening to allow the engine vacuum to suck fuel through the jets and into the cases.  One of the times I had the carb off, I felt the reed block area and it was dry as well.  I will try squirting some fuel past the reed block and see what happens.  I'll keep you posted.  Thank you again for helping me out.  I don't have much hair left to pull out. :D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline eprovenzano

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I don't have much hair left to pull out. :D

Welcome to my world...   :<img src=" title="Roll Eyes" class="smiley">
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
Eric Provenzano
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Offline arnego2

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The bottom end had been recently replaced by the owner before the guy I bought it from, with a Hot Rods rod and new bearing and seals.

That makes it the work of the pre-pre-owner and it makes me wonder when "new" losses its value for you.  :o
I had to replace crank seals just after a few hours (20) of a bottom end rebuild.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »