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Yet another project
« Reply #75 on: May 29, 2012, 01:02:38 AM »
They protect your plastics which cost more.

$100 on graphics... Or $100 on new top end... Hmmm...





his top end has 30 minutes on it.   or, how about 200 dollars on graphics and a top end?  You don;t HAVE to choose all the time guys.  putting graphics on your bike is not a sin.  Some of you guys take this penny-pinching shit way too fucking far to the point that you act like you HAVE to ride a roached out bike unless you're pro.  and yes, a bike without graphics WILL look roached in 3 rides when the plastics are scratched to piss.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #76 on: May 29, 2012, 01:16:37 AM »
Quote
his top end has 30 minutes on it.   or, how about 200 dollars on graphics and a top end?  You don;t HAVE to choose all the time guys.  putting graphics on your bike is not a sin.  Some of you guys take this penny-pinching shit way too fucking far to the point that you act like you HAVE to ride a roached out bike unless you're pro.  and yes, a bike without graphics WILL look roached in 3 rides when the plastics are scratched to piss.
I have graphics on mine, but in the areas where it doesn't it does get scratched up. But, some "New bike in a can" (Yes that is a real product) and some good cleaning makes them nearly invisible, unless you have a gouge in it from a whip out.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #77 on: May 29, 2012, 01:33:25 AM »
Ive been WD40-ing my bike from top to bottom since I was on 80s.  the dirt doesnt stick the next time you pressure wash it.  none of the aluminum ever gets that orange-ish residue on it.  always looks like brand new.  I just drag the brakes on the way to the starting line to clean to rotors off, and im good to go.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline scotty dog

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« Reply #78 on: May 29, 2012, 01:40:40 AM »
Ive been WD40-ing my bike from top to bottom since I was on 80s.  the dirt doesnt stick the next time you pressure wash it.  none of the aluminum ever gets that orange-ish residue on it.  always looks like brand new.  I just drag the brakes on the way to the starting line to clean to rotors off, and im good to go.
Me too, its good shit and yep makes it look like new, ever forgotten to drag the brakes? i have and gotten to the end of the start straight and gone oooooohhhhhhh sssssshhhhhhiiiiiiiittttttttt!!
only did it once  :D :D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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« Reply #79 on: May 29, 2012, 01:45:32 AM »
Ive been WD40-ing my bike from top to bottom since I was on 80s.  the dirt doesnt stick the next time you pressure wash it.  none of the aluminum ever gets that orange-ish residue on it.  always looks like brand new.  I just drag the brakes on the way to the starting line to clean to rotors off, and im good to go.
Me too, its good shit and yep makes it look like new, ever forgotten to drag the brakes? i have and gotten to the end of the start straight and gone oooooohhhhhhh sssssshhhhhhiiiiiiiittttttttt!!
only did it once  :D :D

Absolutely have. 
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

Offline cnrcpla

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« Reply #80 on: May 29, 2012, 01:54:41 AM »
I will have to try WD40... Its one more use I can add to it  :P I usually put a rag over each rotor before I spray it down.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #81 on: May 29, 2012, 01:59:17 AM »
I will have to try WD40... Its one more use I can add to it  :P I usually put a rag over each rotor before I spray it down.

no, just spray the rotors.  it keeps them and the little bolts from rusting while the bike sits.  the pads only bust the corrosion off the braking surface, but the hats (center part) will corrode.  and if the WD eats your pads a little, so what, pads are a fraction of the cost of rotors.  spray the chain so you dont have to waste chainlube on it while it sits in storage, that way you can just hit it with a bead of lube right before your moto. 

Just spray the whole bike, top to bottom, then get a clean rag and wipe the excess off the top surfaces of your plastics, seat, grips.  buy it in the large gallon can, and put it into an old spray bottle.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #82 on: May 29, 2012, 02:01:15 AM »
My bike usually never sits for more than a week. I ice race in the winter and moto in the summer, trails in the fall and spring. It really only sits while I do top ends.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #83 on: May 29, 2012, 02:03:13 AM »
My bike usually never sits for more than a week. I ice race in the winter and moto in the summer, trails in the fall and spring. It really only sits while I do top ends.

I'm from FL, where rotors rust in the time it takes to drink a beer.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #84 on: May 29, 2012, 02:05:24 AM »
Oh, yeah the humidity would do that pretty quick.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #85 on: May 29, 2012, 08:58:21 AM »
They protect your plastics which cost more.

$100 on graphics... Or $100 on new top end... Hmmm...





his top end has 30 minutes on it.   or, how about 200 dollars on graphics and a top end?  You don;t HAVE to choose all the time guys.  putting graphics on your bike is not a sin.  Some of you guys take this penny-pinching shit way too fucking far to the point that you act like you HAVE to ride a roached out bike unless you're pro.  and yes, a bike without graphics WILL look roached in 3 rides when the plastics are scratched to piss.

Well, I am a college student working a minimum wage job. I would rather buy a spare top end than graphics any day.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
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« Reply #86 on: May 29, 2012, 12:27:11 PM »
They protect your plastics which cost more.

$100 on graphics... Or $100 on new top end... Hmmm...





his top end has 30 minutes on it.   or, how about 200 dollars on graphics and a top end?  You don;t HAVE to choose all the time guys.  putting graphics on your bike is not a sin.  Some of you guys take this penny-pinching shit way too fucking far to the point that you act like you HAVE to ride a roached out bike unless you're pro.  and yes, a bike without graphics WILL look roached in 3 rides when the plastics are scratched to piss.

Well, I am a college student working a minimum wage job. I would rather buy a spare top end than graphics any day.

and that is no reason to disagree with someone who can handle spending a few bucks on something cosmetic.  cosmetic parts are not the devil.  you're ALLOWED to buy an anodized rear brake clevis, if your heart desires.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #87 on: May 29, 2012, 01:01:03 PM »
My bike usually never sits for more than a week. I ice race in the winter and moto in the summer, trails in the fall and spring. It really only sits while I do top ends.

I'm from FL, where rotors rust in the time it takes to drink a beer.


Thats the truth too . I've been doing the wd40 trick since day one  makes the dirt just rinse off . good shit
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #88 on: May 29, 2012, 01:06:51 PM »
it also displaces water in all the nooks and crannies right after you washed the bike.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »

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« Reply #89 on: May 29, 2012, 08:03:52 PM »
and that is no reason to disagree with someone who can handle spending a few bucks on something cosmetic.  cosmetic parts are not the devil.  you're ALLOWED to buy an anodized rear brake clevis, if your heart desires.
When did I do that  :P
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by ' »
ACMXProductions.weebly.com <-- Check it out! Now!

'Forgive me lord for I have sinned. I hit a fourth gear jump in fifth gear pinned'

The Sweet Sound of a Yz125 Two Stroke
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSO3Po7uvJo

'If it takes more than two strokes, then you're just playing with