Post by: Coop on December 20, 2013, 05:52:09 PM
I plan to get into the engine tomorrow. My arm gave out by the time I had it basically down to the frame. Some clown welded the shifter on so that's going to be a pain in the butt. Some people shouldn't be allowed to work on motorcycles.
This will be a slow, long term project. I will update with any new pics or progress.
Post by: _X_ on December 20, 2013, 07:00:26 PM
Post by: Coop on December 20, 2013, 07:21:33 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on December 21, 2013, 06:08:18 AM
Check out my RM rebuild for peg replacement.
Be good to see the old girl back to it's former glory.
Post by: Coop on December 21, 2013, 01:12:31 PM
Kiwi your RM post is what really ignited my project bike fire again. I was re-reading it the other week. I haven't done one in 3 years or so. I'm ready.
Post by: motoxr377 on December 21, 2013, 01:35:19 PM
Post by: citabjockey on December 21, 2013, 02:15:10 PM
175 is just about the perfect engine size IMHO.
Post by: cnrcpla on December 21, 2013, 05:38:30 PM
Post by: Coop on December 22, 2013, 01:13:43 AM
Cool project. How do you plan on removing the shifter? Curious minds want to know
Air tools are your friend. I ground the weld down and it came off fairly easily.
Post by: citabjockey on December 22, 2013, 01:26:51 AM
A found out last night a friend has access to powder coating and all it will cost me is materials.
Post by: cnrcpla on December 22, 2013, 04:03:26 AM
Quote
Air tools are your friend. I ground the weld down and it came off fairly easily.Ahhh I see. I was assuming it was a decent weld that might of had some penetration and really made it a pain. One less head ache for ya though. Good luck with the build!
Post by: Coop on December 22, 2013, 12:31:19 PM
I hate you
LOL. I've never done much powder coating on my bike projects due to cost. But I can't turn this down.
cnrcpla it did. The shaft is ruined. But I needed the shifter off to get that side case off.
Post by: Coop on December 22, 2013, 12:46:08 PM
The piston is cracked, and shows signs of significant wear. Oddly the cylinder is about perfect. All the bearings spin smoothly and are tight. There is zero up/down play in the big end and no play in the crank bearings. I plan to split the cases and change them all since I don't know how long they have been in there, but I am surprised with how tight they all are. The bike has a 1.5mm overbore; I was hoping for stock size but figured my chances were slim on that. Doesn't look like any of the cylinder companies have anything for it. My original thought was have Millennium, or similar company, return it to stock bore but nobody even makes a sleeve for it that I can find so my options here are limited.
Post by: TMKIWI on December 23, 2013, 12:31:30 AM
Post by: Coop on December 23, 2013, 12:41:27 PM
Post by: insane one on December 25, 2013, 09:03:39 PM
. I had a local shop bore and hone it the next size over. Plus replace the mains and seals. Saddly while I was breaking it in. The rod lower bearing seized. I never got it running again. 
Post by: shanes on December 26, 2013, 12:51:06 PM
he was not happy thought we were joking until he dug down and found a grip :-}}
we thought it was funny
Post by: TMKIWI on December 27, 2013, 04:14:57 AM
Post by: Coop on December 27, 2013, 03:23:59 PM
. Shanes though that is funny, that's a little extreme for a joke lol.
I bought a stock sized cylinder on eBay. Even if it needs bored first over to clean it up I like the idea of not being near the limit like the current cylinder is.
The overall plan is to rebuild the crank (I'll have to send it out), new top end, replace every bearing and seal in the engine, replace all the chassis bearings (the ones I can still get anyway), replace the brakes, the fork seals, fork boots, plastic, seat cover, tires, etc. That will put the total at around $1200-1300 including what I paid for it, but it will basically be like new again. Hopefully I will have it complete by April/May at the latest. I think the frame will be powder coated in a couple of weeks when I get time to clean it up and drop it off.
Post by: shanes on December 27, 2013, 04:03:09 PM
it died only fitting we gave it a proper funeral
Post by: Coop on December 27, 2013, 08:01:50 PM
extreme
Ya got me there
.
Post by: Paul P on January 02, 2014, 04:18:19 AM
Post by: Coop on January 02, 2014, 01:48:36 PM
Post by: Coop on January 03, 2014, 08:33:55 PM
I was also in touch with a few places about having the crank rebuilt. $169 seems to be the going rate and that includes a new rod kit and shipping back to me. Not too bad. I don't think the current lower rod or crank bearings are bad but I think I might just change all the bearings and seals while the engine is out and apart rather than do it again in a few months or next winter.
Post by: TMKIWI on January 04, 2014, 06:07:23 AM
Post by: Coop on March 13, 2014, 02:40:28 PM
Post by: opfermanmotors on March 15, 2014, 06:41:22 PM
Cool. First order of business, toss the toothpick pegs.
That would be a good meme. Starts out with a picture of a bike in 1975 with small pegs. Then says 1995 a bike with large pegs and then says 2025 with a bike with a full stair case on the side as the peg with the label "Cry Babies"
Post by: Coop on March 22, 2014, 12:13:19 AM
Post by: _X_ on March 22, 2014, 02:45:36 AM
Post by: Coop on May 25, 2014, 12:53:58 PM
I am finally going to start back on it soon. The stock cylinder I bought is scratched so I need to get it bored. Finding someone local to do it has proven a little difficult. I may have to send it out.
Post by: eprovenzano on May 27, 2014, 06:15:36 PM
Post by: citabjockey on May 28, 2014, 01:08:20 AM
Don't ya just hate it when that "work" thing keeps getting in the way...
Post by: Coop on June 20, 2014, 12:36:23 PM
I still am going to try to get things done as I can. I ordering a piston kit soon so I can send the cylinder to be bored. I also tried to rebuild the forks (I have all the parts to do the job) and I couldn't get the caps out. I fear I may strip them before they come out.
Post by: _X_ on June 20, 2014, 01:11:18 PM
Post by: blbiker56 on June 22, 2014, 04:36:06 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on June 22, 2014, 09:32:46 AM
I had trouble getting my 1986 rm125 caps off, so i mounted them back into the triple clamps and used an impact gun on low psi. I did the low psi because the caps are aluminum. Maybe give that a shot, and if you use the right socket you shouldnt strip anything out.
Iv'e done that before but you relly need a single hex socket as the multi hex sockets tend to round off the aluminium cap.
Post by: eprovenzano on June 23, 2014, 06:03:22 PM
Post by: Coop on June 25, 2014, 12:35:28 AM
.
Post by: citabjockey on June 25, 2014, 04:40:37 AM
Post by: eprovenzano on July 24, 2014, 08:01:36 PM
Post by: Coop on July 27, 2014, 11:21:30 PM
Post by: Coop on July 31, 2014, 05:22:18 PM
Post by: citabjockey on July 31, 2014, 07:11:55 PM
If so then heat on the caps will make them tighter not looser. Maybe try ice.
Post by: Coop on August 01, 2014, 07:35:01 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on August 02, 2014, 03:17:53 AM
Heat the caps then dunk them in cold water.
Have done it many times with stuck outboard motor parts.
Post by: Coop on March 21, 2017, 09:25:45 PM
I am hoping to get back on it now that we are finally getting settled here in TX. I am looking for a place to get the cylinder bored. I am also searching for a local powder coater to do the frame for me. I need to send the crank off too, no sense in doing all this work with everything being fresh. It will still be a slow process but I wanted to bring this back to the top so I could use it to try to keep myself on track with this bike.
Post by: _X_ on March 22, 2017, 01:52:57 PM
Post by: Coop on March 22, 2017, 06:02:51 PM
dont fail the bike coop
I almost did, but I am going to make it great again...:) .
Post by: _X_ on March 23, 2017, 01:48:09 PM
Post by: rsmith on March 23, 2017, 03:05:35 PM
Unfortunately you are going to miss out on the free stories that go with all the jobs but he does great work.
1 of the 3 piston "rooms"
(https://nebula.wsimg.com/30e1146cf7498b928455febe9cdba985?AccessKeyId=10989A06FB08FA69AEB2&disposition=0&alloworigin=1)
--Ron.
Post by: Coop on March 24, 2017, 06:31:40 AM
Post by: Coop on May 11, 2017, 05:58:20 PM
Post by: rsmith on May 30, 2017, 06:30:51 PM
On my 81 YZ restore I considered having it powder coated but after much back and forth and some input from guys in the vintage community I decided to have it blasted and painted instead.
The reasoning was that if you intend to ride it whatever you use is going to get worn off above the pegs and you can touch up the paint and it will look good, but you are kind of stuck with powder coating.
--Ron.
Post by: Coop on June 06, 2017, 05:49:20 AM
Post by: Coop on October 08, 2018, 05:28:03 AM
Post by: Coop on October 31, 2018, 12:47:01 PM
Post by: _X_ on November 02, 2018, 01:16:10 PM