Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 06, 2012, 06:40:57 AM
Prior to this bike was leaking gear box oil and blowing smoke out like I have never seen before.
I suspect theres a crack in the casing, the bike was bought like this.
Any suggestions?
Post by: Jeram on September 06, 2012, 07:45:39 AM
Post by: TotalNZ on September 06, 2012, 07:51:49 AM
She'll be burning gearbox oil, thats what all the smoke is.
Post by: cnrcpla on September 06, 2012, 12:29:34 PM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 03:18:30 AM
And after refilling up the gearbox oil after about 3 minutes of riding it immediately disappears; then the bike stalled and was leaking the oils. The piston is not seized though as the top-end was rebuilt.
Cant post pictures up because I took them from a iphone and they are too big, If anyone knows how to reduce the image size using a apple laptop, Please tell, Then I could post some pictures I took of it earlier on.
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 03:37:09 AM
And I have a macbook, to get the pictures down to size, drag it to your desktop, double click it, then hit "tools" and then "adjust size" and then shrink it down to fit. Hope that helps
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 04:28:49 AM
IF you do see any cracks, some JB weld can quickly and easily take care of them, or a better quality fix would be to have someone with pretty good TIG welding skills wash some metal over the crack.
And I have a macbook, to get the pictures down to size, drag it to your desktop, double click it, then hit "tools" and then "adjust size" and then shrink it down to fit. Hope that helps
Just tried doing the right mouse click doesn't come up with tools, only view options. Not sure thanks for the above comment, really helpful.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 04:30:06 AM
Look for cracks or do a leak test. I suspect the leak was coming from where it was silicon sealed, and then replace the crank seals seeing as they are causing the excessive smoke from burning your trans fluid.
Are you saying check for a crack in the crank case housing and how can I tell if the seal is worn if there is no crack evident.
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 04:48:44 AM
Oh and don't right click. Just double click it so it comes up, than in the top bar of the computer you will see the "tools" option and under that is the "adjust size".
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 05:14:54 AM
This is how to get there
This is what comes up and how to change it
Oh and once you re-assemble the engine it wouldn't hurt to leak test it to make sure everything is good to go.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 05:35:11 AM
Now it saying upload is at max capacity for this folder?
Haha, never ending saga this is!
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 05:41:30 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 05:55:44 AM
Finally got a pic uploaded cheers!
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 05:58:48 AM
Luckily this seems like an easy fix. Someone tried to basically jerry-rig a new seal, pull that old one covered in crap out and put a brand new one in. That way it shouldn't burn any trans fluid.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 06:01:44 AM
Ahhh yes, that clarifies it. I thought you meant there was silicon over the case split gasket
Yeah, haha was kind of hard to explain without the aid of pictures. Thanks for your help much appreciated. Ill give it ago & keep you posted. Ill have to buy a new seal kit on monday as shops are closed. Hopefully thats all it is and there is no crack within the casing. Too get a new casing its $1000AUS dollars, so kind of not worth even fixing the bike seeing as its a early model one. Cheaper to replace!
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 06:11:04 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 06:18:04 AM
Yeah. When mine was burning oil the plug would foul and it wouldn't run for very long, it seems your just burns it all.
Exactly what is happening, it runs the almost just dies!
And blows enough smoke to seem like your in a car doing a burnout down the whole street!
Post by: cnrcpla on September 07, 2012, 06:27:52 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 07, 2012, 07:01:14 AM
Yeah I remember starting it in the garage and even with the door open I wouldn't even see the other side of the garage hahaha
Hahaha, I will keep you posted on how things go cheers for the help.
Post by: luthier269 on September 08, 2012, 04:04:49 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 08, 2012, 05:19:39 AM
Does anyone know if the little crack below the crank will cause, any problems. And does anybody know if the crank seal is removed from the outside, or does the motor have to be split and the seal removed internally.
Thanks.
Post by: factoryX on September 08, 2012, 07:35:06 AM
Post by: TotalNZ on September 08, 2012, 07:37:51 AM
You need to clean all that s**t off and see exactly what you're dealing with.
Post by: Jeram on September 08, 2012, 07:43:52 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 08, 2012, 08:58:18 AM
Judging by the amount of crap someones layered on there i think you might have a cracked case under all that.
You need to clean all that s**t off and see exactly what you're dealing with.
Tried taking the rubbish off the face and all it does is tear into the steel.. Not going to come off.
Do you think the crack underneth the crank where the bearings are could affect it at all.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 08, 2012, 09:11:59 AM
Post by: arnego2 on September 08, 2012, 01:50:48 PM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 09, 2012, 03:26:52 AM
Do you have play at the crank? Just in case try to wedge a screwdriver below the crank's pinion and try to move it up just a little, if it moves the bearing needs to be replaced. No seal can seal a loose bearing.
Decided to replace all bearings. Taking the motor in sometime this week as cases have to be split to remove the crank seal on KX's. Also going to get a new gasket kit which is pretty obvious as the motors already apart
Post by: TMKIWI on September 09, 2012, 03:41:20 AM
Hope everything works out.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 09, 2012, 03:45:26 AM
I have seen some dodgy work before and that is up there.
Hope everything works out.
Likewise, pretty annoying to be honest only ridding the bike twice; and its already shit itself!
Will keep up the updates once i've taken motor in and got it back, then the moment of truth when I kick it over!
Post by: Jeram on September 09, 2012, 09:51:23 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 09, 2012, 10:00:54 AM
A new RHS case wouldnt set you back very much, check out ebay you might get lucky.
$1000 AUS dollars new.
If anyone could link me to a 92-99 kx250 one it would be helpful.
Post by: dbf498 on September 09, 2012, 10:16:09 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-92-Kawasaki-KX-250-KX250-DAMAGED-Engine-Motor-Bottom-End-Crank-Cases-/230848932017?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bfab28b1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KX250-KAWASAKI-1998-KX-250-98-ENGINE-CASE-RH-/120978615476?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2ae32cb4&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/kawasaki-kx250-kx-250-right-engine-case-center-main-crankcase-cases-95-1995-/370614945684?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564a5f4794&vxp=mtr
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 11, 2012, 02:40:33 AM
I've thrown in a couple of links to some engine cases off fleabay at the bottom. One is the left and right while the other two are just the right case. Given you mentioned 1992 - 1999 this is what came up. Two claim to ship worldwide but the other only within the United States. From the looks of the case in you pictures it looks as though the last time the engine was rebuilt they cracked the case pressing the crank in. If you could get that stuff off you might have some luck with having it welded. Looking at the parts listing on Motosport it looks as though the cases are sold as a matched set, left and right, which is probably why it's so expensive.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-92-Kawasaki-KX-250-KX250-DAMAGED-Engine-Motor-Bottom-End-Crank-Cases-/230848932017?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bfab28b1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KX250-KAWASAKI-1998-KX-250-98-ENGINE-CASE-RH-/120978615476?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2ae32cb4&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/kawasaki-kx250-kx-250-right-engine-case-center-main-crankcase-cases-95-1995-/370614945684?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564a5f4794&vxp=mtr
Big help that is mate, thanks for the links!
Im located in AUS, and yeah the cases are in a set which sucks considering I think ill only need the RH side one. And your theory on getting the crank in splitting the cases is probably correct. Kind of got sucked in to buying this bike, thought it was cheap ended up being a nightmare luckily I have another one to ride while this ones getting repaired or I would not be happy!!
Post by: Stusmoke on September 12, 2012, 08:46:04 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 12, 2012, 11:44:00 PM
Maaaaan I just started reading this thread and I feel really sorry for you. Believe me I've been there. Spending your hours in the shed on a bike instead of in the saddle. I hope its not a cracked case and if it is I hope its an easy weld job.
Yeah it absolute sucks just got the motor out yesterday, taking it into the mechanics today to give it a proper diagnosing and then tell me wether the cases are cracked or not. Only reason taking it in is because I have to split the cases to remove the crank seal, so might swell get a 100% diagnosis of the problem. I did happen to find a complete casing set on eBay for $300. So if need be not sure wether to buy a second hand casing or weld it or spend the $1000.
Post by: Stusmoke on September 13, 2012, 06:34:02 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 13, 2012, 08:48:20 AM
I'm not expert but I'd probably have a VERY skilled welder do it. Don't just get the next door neighbor to have a crack at it cos a dodgey weld would be a disaster at 11,000 RPM. Unless the next door neighbor is infact an extremely skilled welder of course
Haha very true!!
Don't want this happening again ridden the bike twice this year sucks!
Only just got around to fixing it all up now for the summer which sucks, missed the whole winter!
Post by: Stusmoke on September 14, 2012, 02:05:30 AM
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 14, 2012, 05:46:16 AM
You said you were in Aus? me too. What state/territory?
South aus - Adelaide.
Yourself?
Post by: Stusmoke on September 15, 2012, 03:53:16 AM
I'm the only one on here too I think. Actually Swapper is but hes hardly ever here anymore. Scottydog is a WA bloke theres some NSW guys here.Summer down there would positively suck. Its funny in Australia alot of places get both extremes. Really cold in winter and really hot in summer.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 15, 2012, 08:46:19 AM
I'm a Queenslander mate
Summer down there would positively suck. Its funny in Australia alot of places get both extremes. Really cold in winter and really hot in summer.
Not wrong mate, and terrible prices for bikes and parts incomparison to the US!!
Summer here is a shocker no mud at all like riding on concrete!
Front wheel spends more time in the air, and rear is all over the show. Just the way you want it though aha
Post by: SachsGS on September 15, 2012, 03:24:29 PM
Normally you would think that engine cases could only be purchased as matched sets.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 16, 2012, 01:16:43 AM
Here in my corner of Canada it's +40 C in the summer and -40 C in the Winter if you want to discuss extremes!
Normally you would think that engine cases could only be purchased as matched sets.
Yeah found a pair as a matching set. Haha canada seems like the weathers all over the show
Post by: Stusmoke on September 17, 2012, 07:25:06 AM
Here in my corner of Canada it's +40 C in the summer and -40 C in the Winter if you want to discuss extremes!
**ck that. Thats ridiculous I feel a little better about my "extremes" now
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 22, 2012, 08:45:04 AM
Piston is scored, needs new rings, cracked case, waterpump needs replacing, all seals, and bearings.
Bike is a mess in otherwords!!
Post by: TotalNZ on September 22, 2012, 11:23:42 AM
Post by: cnrcpla on September 22, 2012, 02:37:09 PM
Post by: SachsGS on September 22, 2012, 03:24:01 PM
Post by: Stusmoke on September 23, 2012, 12:37:31 AM
A big chunk of that quote is labour. If you could do the work yourself you'd save a packet.
I agree. I can't remember if you said you needed to split the cases to get at the crank seals and bearings but thats about $150 roughly if you do. Other than that basically what cnrcpla said. Issue is an Australia genuine parts outlet is hard to come across and believe me I've been looking. You won't be able to import genuine parts from rockymountain for example in the states either international trade laws or some crap. I'd look for some cases on the net, buy international if you have to. I'm constantly on ebay buying and selling random crap so I'll keep an eye out for you, I'll post up here if I see anything. What was the bike again?
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 24, 2012, 07:19:51 AM
A big chunk of that quote is labour. If you could do the work yourself you'd save a packet.
I agree. I can't remember if you said you needed to split the cases to get at the crank seals and bearings but thats about $150 roughly if you do. Other than that basically what cnrcpla said. Issue is an Australia genuine parts outlet is hard to come across and believe me I've been looking. You won't be able to import genuine parts from rockymountain for example in the states either international trade laws or some crap. I'd look for some cases on the net, buy international if you have to. I'm constantly on ebay buying and selling random crap so I'll keep an eye out for you, I'll post up here if I see anything. What was the bike again?
98 KX250, I think the parts range from 92-99 Anyways. Yeah and the quote was mainly for labour the parts only accumulated to 1300. And the most expensive being the cases. Also was wondering the piston only has scoring and they suggested to get the bore honed, wondering if I should bother or not, as the top end was replaced and is only 1 ride old prior to this problem. The 1 ride obviously has scored the piston but other then that it was a brand new Pro X piston/rings combo. Should I keep that, and i have been searching on ebay for parts, and picked up a second hand case (matching set) and also the gasket kits. They quoted 6 hours labour also at $95AUD per hour. Pretty expensive I think!!
Post by: Stusmoke on September 24, 2012, 09:12:33 AM
A big chunk of that quote is labour. If you could do the work yourself you'd save a packet.
I agree. I can't remember if you said you needed to split the cases to get at the crank seals and bearings but thats about $150 roughly if you do. Other than that basically what cnrcpla said. Issue is an Australia genuine parts outlet is hard to come across and believe me I've been looking. You won't be able to import genuine parts from rockymountain for example in the states either international trade laws or some crap. I'd look for some cases on the net, buy international if you have to. I'm constantly on ebay buying and selling random crap so I'll keep an eye out for you, I'll post up here if I see anything. What was the bike again?
98 KX250, I think the parts range from 92-99 Anyways. Yeah and the quote was mainly for labour the parts only accumulated to 1300. And the most expensive being the cases. Also was wondering the piston only has scoring and they suggested to get the bore honed, wondering if I should bother or not, as the top end was replaced and is only 1 ride old prior to this problem. The 1 ride obviously has scored the piston but other then that it was a brand new Pro X piston/rings combo. Should I keep that, and i have been searching on ebay for parts, and picked up a second hand case (matching set) and also the gasket kits. They quoted 6 hours labour also at $95AUD per hour. Pretty expensive I think!!
If I had to choose one thing I hate about my country, its the prices of everything under the sun. Absolutely ridiculous everything is more expensive here. Regarding the scored piston, I would suggest employing a cylinder bore gauge to measure the cylinder bore. Take several measurements from several different points around the cylinder and if any of them differ more than 0.05 from eachother I would DEFINITELY have it rehoned. I'd probably do it if it was .03 actually. take a few snappies of the piston, post them up on here and see what everyone has to say.
Post by: benji.dojo.3 on September 25, 2012, 01:57:14 AM
A big chunk of that quote is labour. If you could do the work yourself you'd save a packet.
I agree. I can't remember if you said you needed to split the cases to get at the crank seals and bearings but thats about $150 roughly if you do. Other than that basically what cnrcpla said. Issue is an Australia genuine parts outlet is hard to come across and believe me I've been looking. You won't be able to import genuine parts from rockymountain for example in the states either international trade laws or some crap. I'd look for some cases on the net, buy international if you have to. I'm constantly on ebay buying and selling random crap so I'll keep an eye out for you, I'll post up here if I see anything. What was the bike again?
98 KX250, I think the parts range from 92-99 Anyways. Yeah and the quote was mainly for labour the parts only accumulated to 1300. And the most expensive being the cases. Also was wondering the piston only has scoring and they suggested to get the bore honed, wondering if I should bother or not, as the top end was replaced and is only 1 ride old prior to this problem. The 1 ride obviously has scored the piston but other then that it was a brand new Pro X piston/rings combo. Should I keep that, and i have been searching on ebay for parts, and picked up a second hand case (matching set) and also the gasket kits. They quoted 6 hours labour also at $95AUD per hour. Pretty expensive I think!!
If I had to choose one thing I hate about my country, its the prices of everything under the sun. Absolutely ridiculous everything is more expensive here. Regarding the scored piston, I would suggest employing a cylinder bore gauge to measure the cylinder bore. Take several measurements from several different points around the cylinder and if any of them differ more than 0.05 from eachother I would DEFINITELY have it rehoned. I'd probably do it if it was .03 actually. take a few snappies of the piston, post them up on here and see what everyone has to say.
Will post pictures up when I get the chance, should be later on this arvo, and yeah I will measure it all out I probally will do it just to ensure that nothing else goes wrong with this heap of junk !!