Two Stroke Motocross
Two Stroke Motocross Forum => General Two Stroke Talk => Topic started by: Marco810 on April 08, 2012, 04:09:44 PM
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I'm in the processes of rebuilding my kx5 engine and thought make a build thread. My plans with this engine are, porting, 250 ignition, 41mm pwk (pump gas), and what ever else i can think of on a stock stroke x bore. The bike its going on is a conversion bike so im thinking about a CPI "Dune pipe" unless i can find a better topend cr pipe.
Jug before i sent it off. some chips in the plating. was the first time i had this engine apart, so go figures its been neglected


Gathering of parts. still need to send my crank off for rebuild

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Why are you putting a 250 ignition in it? What would that do for a 500? I no little about big bores, so sorry if that's a stupid question
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the 250 ignition is 10 years newer. probably smaller, less rotational mass too.
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Oh ok. That makes sense. With the lighter weight that monster is going to hit like a beast... Videos?
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Oh ok. That makes sense. With the lighter weight that monster is going to hit like a beast... Videos? 
Ive been wanting to get a Gopro for some time now..
Another thing with the 250 ignition is a more aggressive ignition curve. Thinking about a Lectron, anyone have experience with them?
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i dont think you can go wrong walking into target and buying the gopro for 299.
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Insert Quote
i dont think you can go wrong walking into target and buying the gopro for 299.
I have seen them for that price everywhere. And every time I walk by them I cant help but wonder what else I could buy for that price that would actually benefit me or my bike
SO instead I made a free mounting piece for my helmet or bars that holds any camera. (I just have to test it out)
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I thought about taping my phone to my visor before, but it didnt seem like the best idea. I like the water proof aspect of gopro
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Just put a plastic bag around your phone
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You guys are ridiculous.
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Are you building a drag racer?

I didn't know Lectron was still in business.They were a popular conversion for piston port/non reed bikes back in the 70's and worked quite well.
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porting, 250 ignition, 41mm pwk (pump gas), and what ever else i can think of
I recently built a CR500 engine specifically for MX so our two goals are miles apart, but some
of the mods I made would be beneficial for a dune bike. For the top end, I had Eric Gorr do the
port and head work. He recommended a Wiseco piston because it is more durable than the
cast OE. I sent that piston and crank assembly to Crank Works for balancing at 6-8000 rpm
which is the meat of the powerband for a 500. I also had all of the rotational internals REMed.
This process greatly reduces friction and heat and improves clutch action and shifting. I also
installed a VForce 3 reed and a 2000 CR250 ignition with a Vortex IC. IMO, all of these changes
would also be beneficial to a big power, top end engine.
Here's a couple of pictures of my engine. I look forward to following your build and to see what
you ultimately come up with.
With the lighter weight that monster is going to hit like a beast
Actually, the bulk of the weight (crankshaft), is still there. The smaller rotor helps with the gyro
effect and makes the bike feel lighter and more manageable in the air and in corners. The biggest
gain is going from an analog to a digital ignition and the ability to program the mapping. You can
really increase the hit (if you're a sadist), or virtually eliminate it.
dogger

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Are you building a drag racer? 
I didn't know Lectron was still in business.They were a popular conversion for piston port/non reed bikes back in the 70's and worked quite well.
Drag/play bike. I may just stick with the PWK, from what ive researched Lectron is more of a wide open only carb
porting, 250 ignition, 41mm pwk (pump gas), and what ever else i can think of
I recently built a CR500 engine specifically for MX so our two goals are miles apart, but some
of the mods I made would be beneficial for a dune bike. For the top end, I had Eric Gorr do the
port and head work. He recommended a Wiseco piston because it is more durable than the
cast OE. I sent that piston and crank assembly to Crank Works for balancing at 6-8000 rpm
which is the meat of the powerband for a 500. I also had all of the rotational internals REMed.
This process greatly reduces friction and heat and improves clutch action and shifting. I also
installed a VForce 3 reed and a 2000 CR250 ignition with a Vortex IC. IMO, all of these changes
would also be beneficial to a big power, top end engine.
Here's a couple of pictures of my engine. I look forward to following your build and to see what
you ultimately come up with.
With the lighter weight that monster is going to hit like a beast
Actually, the bulk of the weight (crankshaft), is still there. The smaller rotor helps with the gyro
effect and makes the bike feel lighter and more manageable in the air and in corners. The biggest
gain is going from an analog to a digital ignition and the ability to program the mapping. You can
really increase the hit (if you're a sadist), or virtually eliminate it.
dogger
Looks great Dogger. Not sure if CR's benefit from piston windowing but it would be worth looking into. People claim a easy +2hp for the KX with a piston window.
Was trying to decide on weather or not ill get it balanced, did it make a significant difference?
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Thanks Marco. The crank balancing was done for 6-8000 rpm which is the "meat" of the
powerband. It brought the vibration level down to 250 levels - very nice for a long trail
ride or moto practice, no more tingly hands.
The piston window is a good mod for the KX port configuaration but not so much for the
CR's. Here are a couple of pictures of my cylinder to see the difference between the two.
The big thing on the CR is to relieve the exhaust port bridge and add some oiling holes to
the front of the piston.
I think the 41mm PWK will be more than enough for your application. I started with a 39.5
(the KX OE) and switched down to a 38 for better low to mid and throttle response for MX.
dogger



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That is hands down the sexiest motor ive ever seen...
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That is hands down the sexiest motor ive ever seen...
Wait till he posts the pics of it in the bike, probably the nicest 500 I've ever seen.
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Small update.
Sealed up a potential leak area, not sure why kawi machined through the cases to insert the bearing housing. Another great tip from kxriders, I take no credit for most of the mods ill be doing to this engine

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JB weld! I love that stuff
Works better than duct tape
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Not much you can't fix with a rubber Mallet, Duct tape, and JB weld
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Here's one way to remove bearings (emphasizing on the previous post
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put them in an oven with the bearings facing down at 400 degrees.
stand within an ear shot of the oven. When you hear a "clank", the bearing is out.
Ask Charles.
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put them in an oven with the bearings facing down at 400 degrees.
stand within an ear shot of the oven. When you hear a "clank", the bearing is out.
Ask Charles.
thats how i do mine, works every time no need for a hammer.
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GF wouldnt like that too much, but ill keep that in mind for next time. However that was a quick and easy method, few taps with a mallet, and im ready for new bearings
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This should be fun to play around with..

Crankshaft and 01 250 ignition is on its way, thinking about getting a hpi programmable cdi down the road. No idea on the eta on my jug, may call Eric if i find time this week
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Stuffing the crank pin. Thought about welding something on there but dont want to throw it out of balance too much
Eric is just "finishing up the head milling", should see my cylinder soon
. Havent even ordered my piston yet... or carb... or..



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01 kx250 ignition..


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shinny new bearings. exept the shift drum bearings, dont see much point in replacing those
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Bottem end together. stator plate is going to need some work

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I have never split cases before, but when you do that, do you just line up the gear configuration with the bearings and all that stuff and put it together? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but I have done everything on a bike except splitting cases and rear suspension work.
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Ive only ever split Kawasaki cases so this may not apply to all, but i install install the shiftdrum, forks, gears, and crank, all on one case, then slide the other case on. the first case hold everything inline, so its a fairly easy process, only thing is you got to work quick when using a frozen crank and cases fresh out of the oven
also a case splitter is a must, never hit the crank with anything, just putting it out there
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Got my cylinder back
hard to tell if he did any work, but i do notice a few small changes



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Nice. I can't wait to see the finished product
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Lookin nice, cylinder looks nice n fresh
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Well i made some measurements and the ports havent been touched with tooling, just a little grinding to sharpen the bridges. I'm not impressed at all and at this point it kinda derailed my build, just going to have to run it like it is till i decide to actually get it ported. Needless to say i wont be dealing with eric again
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Well i made some measurements and the ports havent been touched with tooling, just a little grinding to sharpen the bridges. I'm not impressed at all and at this point it kinda derailed my build, just going to have to run it like it is till i decide to actually get it ported. Needless to say i wont be dealing with eric again
If the workmanship is not what you wanted, I'd be on the phone getting it straighted out.
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I will be giving him a call later. At this point though I'm not shipping my cylinder out, took long enough to get this far
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Needless to say i wont be dealing with eric again
Just curious which port package you specified; more low, more high, "mo betta"?
EG did the Mo betta on my 500 and there was a great deal of work done. I
wonder if there was some mis-communication or something. I would definitely
call and talk to him about this.
I have never split cases before, but when you do that, do you just line up the gear configuration with the bearings and all that stuff and put it together?
I have a slightly different approach. Like Marco said, you want to put everything in the right
side case. I place the case on my homemade engine stand (see picture) and put the main
and countershaft clusters in meshed together. Then install the shift forks, shift drum and
shift fork shafts in that order. Then I install the left side case. This is a test fit to check
that the tranny spins freely and is done before the crankshaft goes in.




Once I make sure the gear clusters are assembled correctly (the reason for the test fit), I take
it all apart and do it again, only this time I start with the crankshaft which I install with an
installation tool that draws it into the crank bearing.
Just another technique to assemble a bottom end.
dogger
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Needless to say i wont be dealing with eric again
Just curious which port package you specified; more low, more high, "mo betta"?
EG did the Mo betta on my 500 and there was a great deal of work done. I
wonder if there was some mis-communication or something. I would definitely
call and talk to him about this.
I have never split cases before, but when you do that, do you just line up the gear configuration with the bearings and all that stuff and put it together?
I have a slightly different approach. Like Marco said, you want to put everything in the left
side case. I place the case on my homemade engine stand (see picture) and put the main
and countershaft clusters in meshed together. Then install the shift forks, shift drum and
shift fork shafts in that order. Then I install the right side case. This is a test fit to check
that the tranny spins freely and is done before the crankshaft goes in.
Once I make sure the gear clusters are assembled correctly (the reason for the test fit), I take
it all apart and do it again, only this time I start with the crankshaft which I install with an
installation tool that draws it into the crank bearing.
Just another technique to assemble a bottom end.
dogger
I checked the topend port box on the form, and got charged for that service, even is printed "porting work" on my recipe. being a topend job i should be seeing some significant duration changes, how ever this is a stock port config.
Im not trying to bad talk Eric Gorr or anything, but i feel like i got shafted. Im busy with work this week but when i get time ill see what he has to say
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Im not trying to bad talk Eric Gorr or anything, but i feel like i got shafted
Looking at the pictures, I totally agree. Visually, the difference between the OE cylinder and
what I got back from EG was night and day. It'll be interesting to here what is said when
you call. I just hope you get it worked out and get the "fire breathing" cylinder you want.
dogger
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I have to ask; why do you want porting done on a 500?
That's going to be a bit of a monster
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Got my cylinder back
hard to tell if he did any work, but i do notice a few small changes




Well i made some measurements and the ports havent been touched with tooling, just a little grinding to sharpen the bridges. I'm not impressed at all and at this point it kinda derailed my build, just going to have to run it like it is till i decide to actually get it ported. Needless to say i wont be dealing with eric again
You have every right to be angry Marco. I would be demanding your money back.
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I personally have not had work done by EG, but I'm of the opinion someone missed something at the factory. From what I've read about EG, he stands behind his work, if they missed something, they should make it right. In today's world of internet forums, the news of bad experiences gets around fast, and that's the last thing any company (especially in trying times) needs. Give them a chance to make it right.
Please keep us updated
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I have to ask; why do you want porting done on a 500?
That's going to be a bit of a monster 
Some people can uncork them, man. And sometimes port work is just to clean up casting flaws (these things are sand cast, i believe) which can smooth out the delivery.
Well, let me take this opportunity to share my EG story as I just got off the phone with him.
He has had my jug for a month. He does not have possession of it, and does not know when he will. I am left at "you'll get it when you get it."
This is a FAR CRY from the guys who claim to have sent it to him on Saturday and got it back 6 days later on the following Friday. Like I said in my thread, the best port work in the world is nothing if the jug isn't on the bike.
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I talked with EG about two weeks ago and he said he had upwards of 300 jobs, at different stages, at the time. As we know it is the beginning of the summer and a lot of folks, I'm willing to bet more than half procrastinated over the winter, are getting their bikes ready at the beginning of the riding season versus after. I'm not saying that has happened in this case but unfortunately we've, my stuffs in a holding pattern too, become caught up in the mad rush of others.
To be honest, I've been really pleased with the work he's done on my stuff even if at times it takes a little longer to get it back. Nowadays the number of shops that specialize in 2T work seems to be getting smaller; since the big money is in repairing ticking time bombs. Patience has become my new mantra as the older I get I realize I have less of it left.
I'm in a similar situation as I sent a crank off to crank works for balance and it's been going two months. The crank, along with all the bits and pieces, was finally shipped to my son's house last Thursay; UPS will not deliver to an APO address. So now I'm at the mercy of the USPS and hoping like mad they don't pull an Ace Ventura on it, I've had boxes come in that no longer looked like boxes. I'm also waiting on a top end from EG but it's a spare and I'm not in as big a rush for it; although I'd still like to have it in my hot little hands all the same.
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Got to love Wiseco... this is a topend Eric Gorr sent me + a invoice without my regard *still need to call him*
Old rings

New rings. Feeler gauge doesnt even go that high

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Have you checked the piston to bore clearence ?
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i could land a 747 in that end-gap.
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Have you checked the piston to bore clearence ?
Only have a caliper and odered a bore gauge off ebay, .01" was what i got 
topend is way out of spec, bore looks to be good though
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with that gap you'll need another oversized piston, or that thing will slap like hell.
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porting, 250 ignition, 41mm pwk (pump gas), and what ever else i can think of
I recently built a CR500 engine specifically for MX so our two goals are miles apart, but some
of the mods I made would be beneficial for a dune bike. For the top end, I had Eric Gorr do the
port and head work. He recommended a Wiseco piston because it is more durable than the
cast OE. I sent that piston and crank assembly to Crank Works for balancing at 6-8000 rpm
which is the meat of the powerband for a 500. I also had all of the rotational internals REMed.
This process greatly reduces friction and heat and improves clutch action and shifting. I also
installed a VForce 3 reed and a 2000 CR250 ignition with a Vortex IC. IMO, all of these changes
would also be beneficial to a big power, top end engine.
Here's a couple of pictures of my engine. I look forward to following your build and to see what
you ultimately come up with.
With the lighter weight that monster is going to hit like a beast
Actually, the bulk of the weight (crankshaft), is still there. The smaller rotor helps with the gyro
effect and makes the bike feel lighter and more manageable in the air and in corners. The biggest
gain is going from an analog to a digital ignition and the ability to program the mapping. You can
really increase the hit (if you're a sadist), or virtually eliminate it.
dogger


I see you have the Delta 3 reed valve system. Did that come with a boot that goes to your carb or do you have to use the stock boot?