Post by: eprovenzano on January 15, 2012, 07:30:19 PM
I'm trying to do this cheap, a few pieces of sandpaper, a can of etched primer, a can of high temp paint, and a can of clear. I plan on doing several coats of paint and clear. Other than the steering stem bearing, the only other Item I need to replace is the chain rollers.
I?m open to any and all suggestions?
I?m thinking high temp paint would be more durable than standard automotive paint. I need recommendations to something to clean the engine, and suggestions to bring out the shine in the exhaust.
Post by: ford832 on January 15, 2012, 07:44:56 PM
Just reread-is your pipe raw metal or oem nickel plate?iF oem I'd just use metal polish and not the scotchbrite pad.
Block off the holes good and take your engine down to a body shop and get then to give it a quick glass beading.If there is a chemical that will does as well I'm not aware of it.
You can keep any engine(except Kawis) looking newish as long as you clean it well with simple green or the like after every ride but it seems if you let it go through a few heat cycles without washing the dirt becomes semi permanent.
Post by: cnrcpla on January 16, 2012, 12:05:58 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on January 16, 2012, 07:21:47 AM
Just need some elbow grease.
Post by: scotty dog on January 16, 2012, 09:01:37 AM
Post by: eprovenzano on January 16, 2012, 02:04:59 PM
Post by: SachsGS on January 16, 2012, 03:51:42 PM
As for the frame, automotive parts stores sell base coat/clear coat rattle cans and get a dark charcoal grey for your frame. I did my TM in this color and it looks better then the original. Something to bear in mind with powder coating is that this method can add a surprising amount of weight to a motorcycle.
Post by: MyckMcClung on January 16, 2012, 04:18:29 PM
Chrome polish, I use eagle one, will be your best bet on the pipe if it's plated, the Scotchbrite with scratch it to hell.
Yes epoxy is tougher than spray enamel, but ceramic exhaust paint is tougher than epoxy.
Post by: TMKIWI on January 17, 2012, 05:37:00 AM
the Scotchbrite with scratch it to hell.
No it wont. If your pipe is a bit old aready and looking worse for wear , a scotch pad with kero will give it brushed stainless/satin look. You must only polish in 1 direction.
No I wouldn't do it with a new pipe.
Post by: Coop on January 17, 2012, 02:04:02 PM
Like ford said several light coats are much better then 1-2 heavy coats when it comes to spray bombing.
I used some stuff from the dollar store called "Purple power" and ScotchBrite type pad on these cases:
Post by: eprovenzano on January 17, 2012, 06:31:13 PM
I used some stuff from the dollar store called "Purple power" and ScotchBrite type pad on these cases:
Thanks Coop I'll stop and pick up a bottle. I won't get a chance to start sanding and prepping the frame. I want to take out the steering stem bearing races 1st, and only replace the bottom stem bearing before I start dealing with the frame... I thought I get the stuff I know that will be a PIA done 1st... Bearing will be here by the weekend. And then let the rebuild / restore begin.
Post by: ford832 on January 18, 2012, 10:44:50 PM
the Scotchbrite with scratch it to hell.
No it wont. If your pipe is a bit old aready and looking worse for wear , a scotch pad with kero will give it brushed stainless/satin look. You must only polish in 1 direction.
No I wouldn't do it with a new pipe.
You're too accustomed to working on your TM.A crude bike deserves crude treatment.
Post by: eprovenzano on January 21, 2012, 03:42:51 AM
I hope to reassemble the triples and front end tomorrow. I'll then begin cleaning the engine for reinstallation.
Post by: Coop on January 21, 2012, 02:25:55 PM
Post by: beaner on January 21, 2012, 03:08:02 PM
I used spray on bed liner on my RM. Nice light textured matte black finish, and tough as hell. It looks really good.
Post by: cnrcpla on January 21, 2012, 07:28:20 PM
Post by: eprovenzano on January 22, 2012, 04:12:04 PM
Pic taken just before the last ride.
Swingarm removed
Subframe removed
Getting ready to pull motor, and the front end.
Bare frame
Triple clamps with steering bearings removed
Parts waiting to be reinstalled
Let the rebuild process begin. Painted frame
Triples and forks installed.
Post by: eprovenzano on January 22, 2012, 04:26:06 PM
I was concerned about replacing the bearing in the steering stem, but after doing some research, it was a lot easier than anticipated
This in not meant to be a restoration, more of a repair / maintenance of the bike. Doing this gives me the piece of mind knowing I was able to go through the bike, and correct anything that needs attention. As I put the bike back together, I'm able to clean the years of gunk, and make sure its ready to be thrashed next season.
Next on the list will be to get the engine cleaned and reinstalled along with the electronics. I will also be servicing the suspension with a fluid change.
This has taken longer than I thought it would, but at least progress is being made.
Post by: eprovenzano on January 28, 2012, 01:55:31 PM
Post by: cnrcpla on January 28, 2012, 08:38:22 PM
Post by: eprovenzano on January 29, 2012, 01:24:51 PM
Just a reminder to you, as I'm sure you already know this, but make sure you tighten ALL the radiator hose clamps upon re-installation. I missed one clamp and had quite the large leak when I started it up for the first time after my re-installation.
Yes I did... I too had that experience before on my KX250.. after a new top end, I did snug up the hose clamps, and was planning to retighten them before riding... which of course I forgot... Thank God, it came loose after I was done riding. The hose came off as I was was riding the bike onto the trailer...
Yes I was very lucky... One of the nice aspects of taking the bike down to the frame is getting the chance to inspect things that normally don't get much attention. I replaced the lower chain roller (it was completely shot), regreased the upper chain roller, greased the swing arm bolt, and I even greased the bearing in the rear brake lever. I'm going to flush the brake fluid front and rear, as well as replace the juice in my hydraulic clutch. A few bolts have been replaced as they were a bit tired.
Next up is the exhaust... it needs some elbow grease... (I need to change the exhaust springs) then install the rear subframe. The plastics are waiting their turn to be cleaned and polished. If all goes as planned, I'll have her all back together next weekend.
Post by: cnrcpla on January 29, 2012, 02:05:41 PM
Post by: eprovenzano on February 04, 2012, 05:09:43 PM
Post by: cnrcpla on February 04, 2012, 06:35:29 PM
I wouldn't have guessed it was 12 just by looking at it.
Post by: eprovenzano on March 18, 2012, 05:10:52 PM
When I tried to start the bike nothing, it did not want to fire... It had spark, but I didn't think it was strong enough. So I sanded all ground connections, put grease on all wire connections, and replaced the spark plug boot. Still nothing. Out of frustration, I gave it a small shot of starting fluid... One kick it fired... Ok... so now I know its not getting fuel, but why?
The best I can figure is when I pulled the engine, since its such a tight fit, I had to twist it to and foe to get her out. Putting it back in wasn't fun either. After it started with the aid of the starting fluid it would not restart... So I'm guessing I drained the carb bowl and didn't realize it. I leaned the bike over past 45 degrees, and heard a bubble release. Ok, I've never heard that one... but one kick she fired right up warmed up and idled perfectly. I guess it was air locked some where, and just needed to be burped..
Its the simple things that drive us crazy...
Post by: cnrcpla on March 18, 2012, 05:48:05 PM
Quote
Its the simple things that drive us crazy... EmbarrassedTruer words have never been spoken...