Two Stroke Motocross
Two Stroke Motocross Forum => Non-Moto => Topic started by: MXLord327 on June 14, 2011, 08:44:06 AM
-
I just picked up a thrashed 1980 Suzuki TS185 for next to nothing, but it will need a lot of work to get it street legal. I just want it to ride to work, and a few easy trails to explore new hunting areas. Does anyone have a recommended source for parts? It seems like a lot of stuff for this bike has been discontinued by Suzuki.....
-
What kind of parts are you looking? If your main goal is just to get it on the road and riding I would spend some time on eBay or try to find a motorcycle salvage yard close so you can go scavenge some parts :D.
Post some pics and what parts you need and maybe one of use can help you out.
-
No pics right now, but I need footpegs and the bracket they mount to under the frame, rear blinkers, handlebars, swingarm bushings, some clutch parts (haven't taken it apart yet, but it drags so bad that the bike is not ride-able as is). I found a few parts on flea-bay, and found a place out of Nebraska (Dillon Brothers) that seems to have good pricing - I'm just afraid half of what I order won't be available anymore. I have a guy there checking my list now, but have not heard back yet.
-
BikeBandit.com still shows most of those parts. They generally aren't even in the list if they can't get them. It happens of course, but usually if they list it I have had success in getting it.
-
I've learned that most times you have to be creative when restoring bikes.I'd fab up a bracket to mount modern pegs instead of the old rubber "jobbies",the blinkers are Stanleys and are probably the same as Hondas and Yamahas of that era (come to think of it a lot of that stuff is still available aftermarket),swingarm bushing can be machined out of brass or glass impregnated nylon and handlebars are generic. If you disassemble and carefully dress the clutch chances are that there is nothing wrong with it.If the clutch is pooched RM stuff might work or another Japanese make will probably interchange.Good luck! ;D
-
Thanks for the help! I think this is going to be a fun little bike for some easy trail riding for the times I don't want to break out the YZ250!! Should be perfect for teaching my wife to ride as well - if I take the blinkers & mirrors off first!!
-
I will be ordering a manual for the bike, but in the meantime does anyone know what the clearance for the piston/cylinder bore should be? I need to bore the cylinder and put in a new piston & rings. Thanks, Russ
-
Give me a shout, although we do not have them listed we have access to a lot of the older parts. We are also a dealer for DC Plastics which carries a LOT of old school type parts.
-
Finally got it stripped just about down to the frame, I don't think there is a part that I have worked on that wasn't completely f'ed up!! Footpeg bracket that was supposed to be bolted to the frame was welded on, flange where the carb air boot mounts to the metal airbox was cracked 180 degrees around, rear axle frozen to the hub. The list goes on, but the two kickers were the washcloth for an air filter, and a folding shift lever clunking around in the gas tank!!! Some people should just not be allowed to own dirt bikes. I should have walked away, almost did, but I felt sorry for the poor thing, kind of like a beaten puppy!!!
-
Thanks for rescuing that bike!
2 mils should be good for a piston clearance if you cannot find a manual.
-
Do you still need parts?
-
I haven't run into anything I can't find through dealers or on e-bay.......yet
-
http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/ (http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/)
-
I will be ordering a manual for the bike, but in the meantime does anyone know what the clearance for the piston/cylinder bore should be? I need to bore the cylinder and put in a new piston & rings. Thanks, Russ
Hello, I have the shop manual for these bikes. They say the Cylinder to Piston clearence should be 0.002 to 0.0024 inches.
The measurment of the bore should be taken at a point 0.8 inches from the cylinder top surface.
The measurment of the piston diameter should be taken at a point 0.8 inches from the end of the piston skirt.
The service limit / greatest permissible difference between the piston and bore diameters is 0.0047 inches.