Two Stroke Motocross
Two Stroke Motocross Forum => Technical => Topic started by: ACMX on December 29, 2010, 04:23:46 PM
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It has not been serviced for about 15-25 hours of riding (other than the air filter, oil, and just lubing the chain), I just got some extra cash. What's the best I can do for my bike with $200 to get it ready for 2011?
Oh and I want a black tank to go with my new graphics but I cant afford one, how good would black plastic spray paint work? Another option I have is some black FX backgrounds.
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Get your suspension serviced: Change the oil, check for wear and tear on seals and bushings.
Service your bearings: Linkage, swing arm etc.
Not sure how durable the spray paint would be. Im sure if you went to a paint shop somebody there could lead you in the right direction. Cant wait to see the bike with new plastics and graphics!
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I serviced the front suspension 25 hrs of riding ago (seals and fluid). Should it be good?
I definitely need to grease the linkage. How else would I go about servicing the rear suspension?
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I would do the top end before anything else on a 125. Get a service manual first if you don't have one.
You may get away with ring(s) only.
Do you have a Micrometer and a dial bore gage? If not a good shop should not charge to check the clearances.
You can check your big end rod bearing while you have the cylinder off.
Do all of the cheap stuff, Repack the linkage and steering head bearings, true your wheels, Take a torque wrench to all the important bolts - Fork tube, Handle bars, All suspension bolts. Remove and clean your brake calipers, Put anti-seize on the threads. Replace the cotter keys on your foot pegs. replace the water pump seal.
That should keep you busy for a while...
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What kind of riding do you do?
If you trail ride I would get some tires and fresh plastic. Ive never heard good things with painting gas tanks but Ive never tryed either. Clarke sells a black one for $200.
If you race I would get a top end, service the suspension, new tires, repack the silencer, check the clutch, and buy a few extra air filters.
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Looks like ill be getting a piston and rings for sure then.
I would do the top end before anything else on a 125. Get a service manual first if you don't have one.
You may get away with ring(s) only.
Do you have a Micrometer and a dial bore gage? If not a good shop should not charge to check the clearances.
You can check your big end rod bearing while you have the cylinder off.
Do all of the cheap stuff, Repack the linkage and steering head bearings, true your wheels, Take a torque wrench to all the important bolts - Fork tube, Handle bars, All suspension bolts. Remove and clean your brake calipers, Put anti-seize on the threads. Replace the cotter keys on your foot pegs. replace the water pump seal.
That should keep you busy for a while...
I do not have any equipment besides the basic tools. I will probably have to write all of this down and take it to my dads. I'm a crummy mechanic myself. I can do wheel bearings and easy stuff. But I don't live with my dad so he never really gets the chance to teach me about most of the in depth things.
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Like I said Andrew, the internet is your friend, there are plenty of videos for rebuilding topends, regreasing linkages and all the sorts. But it never hurts to have somebody experienced help you for the first time doing something that way you dont make any stupid mistakes on anything.
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Think I'll need gaskets as well?
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Think I'll need gaskets as well?
If You are referring to a top end rebuild, Yes you will need a gasket set.
If you don't need a re-bore, And are running a stock plated cylinder, I would have a local shop run a brush hone through the cylinder. You don't want to make the bore any larger, Just scuff it up, So the rings will seat.
If they don't have a brush hone, Or don't know what you are talking about, Pick up your parts and back away slowly.
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Brush hone? Is that another name for a Flex hone?
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Brush hone? Is that another name for a Flex hone?
A brush hone has bristles that are flexible, They are good for deglazing the bore.
A ball hone will remove the plating (good for iron sleeves though).
Both could be considered flex hones.
If no brush hone is available, I have deglazed a plated cylinder with scotch bright with no ill effects. I would not recommend it to a beginner though (Find an old guy with a limp :D).
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You don't need a brush hone, you can use WD-40 (or something similar if you are anti WD-40 lol) and a new scotch brite pad to restore the crosshatching if the cylinder is within spec. Just takes some elbow grease.
Top-ends on two strokes really are very easy. They seem scary and the way some guys talk they sound more daunting than they really are. But once you do one you will wonder what you were worried about :D .
You are good with video, just take pics/videos anywhere you get stuck and we will gladly help you here. You can do it dude!
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I'd hold off on painting that tank.Plastic breathes and the paint will just bubble and fall off.
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Yeah I forgot to mention, even with the Plastic Fusion paint, tanks will bubble and crack. It works pretty well on other parts, but not tanks.
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The only part I really want to cover is the bottom of the tank below where the graphics are applied, and up by the gas cap. Would Factory Effex black background graphics work?
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I would try it! It couldnt hurt anything, only bad thing that could come out of it is they don't stay on due to your knees wearing them down.
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You don't need a brush hone, you can use WD-40 (or something similar if you are anti WD-40 lol) and a new scotch brite pad to restore the crosshatching if the cylinder is within spec. Just takes some elbow grease.
Top-ends on two strokes really are very easy. They seem scary and the way some guys talk they sound more daunting than they really are. But once you do one you will wonder what you were worried about :D .
You are good with video, just take pics/videos anywhere you get stuck and we will gladly help you here. You can do it dude!
No offence intended Coop, But a scotch bright pad Will not under any circumstance restore the crosshatch pattern.
If you work in one spot too long it could remove the crosshatch.
A scotch bright pad is OK to use only to remove a carbon buildup, or some aluminum smearing from the piston (usually on the exhaust side of the bore).
A brush hone is the only method a reputable builder would use to restore the crosshatch.
That is why I stated You should take it to a local shop who has a brush hone. It may not need it, But No one can tell you that without seeing the cylinder.
I think You can do the tear-down and assembly yourself Andrew, But since it's your first time it would be good to have a machinist take a look at the cylinder. It would also be a great idea to have a factory service manual to look over.
It is much easier than a four stroke, But still important to get it right.
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No offense taken. I meant to remove the glaze so you can "restore" the crosshatch. I shouldn't have used the word restore I guess because I can see the confusion now. But it's common lingo when talking top-ends.
I still say do it yourself. I worked as a mechanic for years so I admit I sometimes forget what it's like when you are first learning but I encourage to buy a manual and learn to do the work yourself.
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;D I will be ordering a piston, rings and a gasket kit shortly, and I may take it to my dads to help me if I get a chance. If not, I will watch a tutorial or two then take it apart myself and take photos and post them up here to see what you guys think. If I need to I will take it to the shop a couple miles down the road and have them hone it.
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Did these guys miss anything?
Motorcycle Top end piston and ring replacement - ATV piston (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FFIWtqU5Zc#)
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That is a pretty good video, I have seen it before.
I just want to point out two things.
1) The second clip once the new piston is on can be a bear, I assume that's why he didn't show it LOL
2) He briefly mentions it, but doesn't even show it in the tools view, but you will need a torque wrench because the torque on the head bolts is critical.
Good luck and I think you will be fine.
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I thought it was kinda funny that he mentioned the TUSK spring puller twice, But didn't show a torque wrench in the tool view.
I also agree with Coop, The second wrist pin clip is a bugger (wear safety glasses).
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I thought it was kinda funny that he mentioned the TUSK spring puller twice, But didn't show a torque wrench in the tool view.
Tusk must not make a torque wrench
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That is a pretty good video, I have seen it before.
I just want to point out two things.
1) The second clip once the new piston is on can be a bear, I assume that's why he didn't show it LOL
2) He briefly mentions it, but doesn't even show it in the tools view, but you will need a torque wrench because the torque on the head bolts is critical.
Good luck and I think you will be fine.
How much do torque wrenches cost? And what clip are you referring to?
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Oh, do you mean the 2nd clip down on the piston?
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I did a top end once, it's fairly straight forward.
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Oh, do you mean the 2nd clip down on the piston?
Yeah that little circlip you see him removing and installing with the pliers. It goes into the side of the piston where the pin comes through.
As for the torque wrench, I know local auto-part stores around here have "loan a tool" programs. Just leave a deposit and get it back when you bring the tool back. Might be worth looking into if you don't want to/can't afford to buy one right now.
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Ive rebuilt atleast 20 two stroke dirtbike engines of all sizes and NEVER used a torque wrench. Never had a problem. Am I lucky?
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Ive rebuilt atleast 20 two stroke dirtbike engines of all sizes and NEVER used a torque wrench. Never had a problem. Am I lucky?
I don't think anyone is that lucky, You have a good feel for it. Most people don't.
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Think I'll need gaskets as well?
Depending on how dirty it is in there, you might not even need to pull the head off. just take the barrel off and then you only need a base gasket.
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Oh dear lord don't paint it, check this link out!!!! I tried it on my kids kx 60 works great!!!
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=611365&highlight=tank+dye (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=611365&highlight=tank+dye)
do your top end, change your fork oil