Two Stroke Motocross
Two Stroke Motocross Forum => General Two Stroke Talk => Topic started by: Braap257 on August 11, 2010, 08:49:10 PM
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The previous owner of my bike said his brother tried to change the oil on it once and he stripped the hell out of the bolt and OMG he did!
Not only is the nut part stripped but the little spanner like ring around it has been etched and gouged at... Anyways. Me and my brother tried EVERYTHING to get it off with what we had in the garage and nothing worked... We finally went to our local Home Depot to get a screw/bolt extractor we brought it home drilled a hole in the oil plug and put the extractor in and twisted and twisted then all of the sudden SNAP! goes the extractor "And this thing was made of tempered steel" A much harder metal than the oil plug. Anyways. I have no where else to turn the bolt itself is literally almost gone. So i figure i will have to take it to someone to have it machined out or something like that. I live in Lakeland Florida and don't know who or where i should take it. And help would be nice. I would really like to be able to change the oil ;D
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Hi
Sears and Homedepot sell stripped bolt or not extractors they work great no drilling,they are like a socket you put it on a impact and it works pretty good. What bike is this on?
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Yes, I tried an extractor from home depot "No drill Required" And the stupid thing snapped. Now it is stuck in the damn oil drain plug. >:(
The bike's a 2004 YZ250 btw.
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Your not having much luck are you ? :(
Not sure if there is the room but you could try a pipe wrench.
I hate it when someone fucks up a bolt head and still puts it back in >:(
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If it's a steel plug you can have a new bolt head welded to it and use that for removing
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Or maybe try cutting a slot in the drain plug and using a hand impact screw driver to get it out.....I've used that before on other bolts,never a drain plug but it might be worth a try
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ah yes, the old "stripped bolt head with snapped bolt extricator thrown in for measure" routine, know it well. my last attempt before i brought it to a machine shop would be like RideRed said, file a deep slot and try using a screwdriver on it. But i think you'll wind up bringing it to the machine shop, there's all kinds of tricks they use, like heat or freezing it.
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Just the obvious, but did you try vice grip pliers? Usually if you set them so you REALLY have to crank down to get them to lock on it will work. I have owned many bikes with either stripped drain bolts, or stripped filter bolts (on older Honda street bikes).
If not I would do as riff suggested and weld a nut to it. But I have welding equipment in the garage and I wouldn't have to pay anyone.
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We tried pretty much every single method. Now i am thinking just drill the sob out and have it tapped.
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Ok now for obvious question #2, are you 100% you guys are turning the right way? :D
Honestly the vice grip method has worked dozens of times for me. You have to have them so tight it feels like either the pliers will break or the bolt head will crush before they lock on. Do that and apply some light heat and I would be money you could get it out. I only ever had to weld a nut onto two drain/filter bolts in all my years of wrenching on bikes.
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I would try RideReds idea first & if you don't have any luck with that try & find a slightly larger sized nut & have someone with a stick welder weld the inner part of the nut to the oil drain plug & use a socket with a breaker bar to torque the oil drain plug off and hopefully the threads don't get stripped in the process! Even if you don't know anybody with a welder I don't think a local welder would charge too much to essentially tack weld a nut to the outside of a drain plug...Good luck getting your problem fixed & hopefully it won't cost ya an arm & leg to get it taken care of.... :)
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If none of these methods work, you may have to take it to a machine shop that has an edm, this means splitting the cases, a edm machine will "burn " the broken bolt out without any force to the cases.
below is what an edm machine does.
Electric discharge machining (EDM), sometimes colloquially also referred to as spark machining, spark eroding, burning, die sinking or wire erosion,[1] is a manufacturing process whereby a desired shape is obtained using electrical discharges (sparks). Material is removed from the workpiece by a series of rapidly recurring current discharges between two electrodes, separated by a dielectric liquid and subject to an electric voltage. One of the electrodes is called the tool-electrode, or simply the â??toolâ?? or â??electrodeâ??, while the other is called the workpiece-electrode, or â??workpieceâ??.
When the distance between the two electrodes is reduced, the intensity of the electric field in the volume between the electrodes becomes greater than the strength of the dielectric (at least in some point(s)), which breaks, allowing current to flow between the two electrodes. This phenomenon is the same as the breakdown of a capacitor (condenser) (see also breakdown voltage). As a result, material is removed from both the electrodes. Once the current flow stops (or it is stopped - depending on the type of generator), new liquid dielectric is usually conveyed into the inter-electrode volume enabling the solid particles (debris) to be carried away and the insulating proprieties of the dielectric to be restored. Adding new liquid dielectric in the inter-electrode volume is commonly referred to as flushing. Also, after a current flow, a difference of potential between the two electrodes is restored to what it was before the breakdown, so that a new liquid dielectric breakdown can occur.
hope this helps
Paul
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A friend of mine had this happen on a used '02 YZ125 he bought, ended up having to buy a new engine case, not cheap!!
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Well worse case is you drill it out and have a time-sert or helicoil installed. There is a coil in my KX125. I didn't install it the PO did. It works fine and doesn't leak.
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Ok now for obvious question #2, are you 100% you guys are turning the right way? :D
Honestly the vice grip method has worked dozens of times for me. You have to have them so tight it feels like either the pliers will break or the bolt head will crush before they lock on. Do that and apply some light heat and I would be money you could get it out. I only ever had to weld a nut onto two drain/filter bolts in all my years of wrenching on bikes.
lol i considered this. ;D As long as "Lefty Loosey, Righty Tightey" applies then we have been doing it right :D I'm going to lunch here in a bit and stopping by a couple stores to get some stuff along with some Vice Grips. I'm determined to remove that sob of a bolt ;)
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What I was talking about from homedepot is like a socket it cant break off in the oil plug.
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What I was talking about from homedepot is like a socket it cant break off in the oil plug.
I have some of those I bought at Sears, I forgot all about them until just now, LOL. That might be an option, though I have never even used mine now that I think about it :) .
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I used them on a stripped clutch hub bolt and it worked great
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Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I Got the plug off this afternoon. And thankfully the threads are fine it was just overtightened and stripped badly ;D
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Well how did you do it? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Yeah,what method did you use?BFH,explosives a combo etc? ;D
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It was actually rather interesting how it happened.... I tried Using a Dremel to saw into the bolt head to make a giant flat head since the 1st tempered steel extractor we used broke off. After i made the flat head and tried a BIG flat head screwdriver I Used a Vice Grip to lock onto it and twisted like my life depended on it. Of course it just busted the Flat head i had made in the bolt.. At that point I really started to feel defeated.... :(. I had tried everything i could think of. But after throwing the flat head screwdriver at the wall i noticed the old extractor bit that broke off in the bolt originally was now able to be pulled out. So i figuring i didn't have much to lose i did so. I took it out and And took a Cobalt drill bit and drilled DEEP into that sob. And made one final stand. I took the biggest extractor i had and tapped it in with a hammer. I used a Crescent wrench to pull it tighter and tighter. Figuring it would just snap I didn't have my hopes up for it to actually work but i figured "Hey i bought the things might as well use em...." I twisted tighter and tighter and then i heard a light *kink* I thought the extractor was giving up on me. But to my absolute amazement i kept turning it and BAM the whole bolt started turning and i proceeded to get up and do the victory dance!!! :D I drained the oil and for now the bike is just gunna sit until the new plug i ordered comes in! ;D ;D ;D
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Well done ;D
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Great news,glad u finally got that bolt out ;D
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WHOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO!!! :D
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EXCELLENT! :D I hope the new plug comes in so you can ride this weekend.You earned it. ;D
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I kept turning it and BAM the whole bolt started turning and i proceeded to get up and do the victory dance!!! :D
There's nothing like a good VICTORY dance after you fix something that seemed hopeless.
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Since that bolt seized that tight, I suggest you buy some "Anti-Sieze" at the auto parts store and apply it to the threads of the new drain plug.
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I kept turning it and BAM the whole bolt started turning and i proceeded to get up and do the victory dance!!! :D
There's nothing like a good VICTORY dance after you fix something that seemed hopeless.
I KNOW. I Felt so happy when that bolt started turning. I can change my oil now! ;D
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Since that bolt seized that tight, I suggest you buy some "Anti-Sieze" at the auto parts store and apply it to the threads of the new drain plug.
Anti-Seize? Never heard of it. I could check out my Local AutoZone for some though. Although i don't think i will have any problems with the new plug. The threads in the case are perfect it was just overtightened then stripped to hell by the previous owner.