Two Stroke Motocross
Two Stroke Motocross Forum => Technical => Topic started by: TM DEAN on July 30, 2012, 07:53:17 AM
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Hey all,newby here with a TM EN 300 09 model and am in desperate need of a new exhaust chamber to replace the paper thin HGS.Am searching for a contact for PPS chambers if anyone can help me out ...Great forum and look forward to spending many hours here..
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welcome to the forum TM DEAN, there's a few TM guys around here that'll be happy to see another TM fan around
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Welcome TM Dean.
Try this.
http://www.cross-shop.eu/webshop/index.php?action=page&group_id=10000133&lang=DE
Have you thought of these ?
http://www.scalviniracing.it/ita/cataloghi4_lista.jsp?codicemother=AW&livello=1
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Thanks for the welcomes,and for the info on the pipes TMKIWI...Hope they ship to oz.
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Hey Dean, I've also got an 09 300 mines an MX. I've found the HGS pipe to be ok, all the good aftermarket pipes seem to be thin like that i believe you get better performance than with thicker gauge steel or twin skins.
I found lots of little issues to fix on my bike that improved it, i can give you a run down if you're interested.
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Hey Dean, I've also got an 09 300 mines an MX. I've found the HGS pipe to be ok, all the good aftermarket pipes seem to be thin like that i believe you get better performance than with thicker gauge steel or twin skins.
I found lots of little issues to fix on my bike that improved it, i can give you a run down if you're interested.
Always interested in making a good thing better I contacted the oz importer of Scalvini,and they quoted me $330 for a chamber which im pretty keen on.
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that's not a bad price.
but don't it expect to perform as good as it looks though. I think the HGS's are about as good as an off the shelf pipe gets.
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that's not a bad price.
but don't it expect to perform as good as it looks though. I think the HGS's are about as good as an off the shelf pipe gets.
100% agree with that,Its just that the HGS is paper thin,well and truly over repairing it every ride.
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whereabouts in Aus are you?
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100% agree with that,Its just that the HGS is paper thin,well and truly over repairing it every ride.
Hi Dean .
I keep hearing about the paper thin problem with the HGS pipes on the aussie site i think you are a member of.
But I have never had a problem with mine.
I have stacked the bike pretty hard a few times in the 4 years I have had it and apart from a few small dents the pipe is fine.
I have a brand new HGS hanging in my shed which i got with the bike but luckerly I have never had to take it off the wall.
Silly question but do they do different gauge pipes.?
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whereabouts in Aus are you?
NSW Mid North Coast..
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100% agree with that,Its just that the HGS is paper thin,well and truly over repairing it every ride.
Hi Dean .
I keep hearing about the paper thin problem with the HGS pipes on the aussie site i think you are a member of.
But I have never had a problem with mine.
I have stacked the bike pretty hard a few times in the 4 years I have had it and apart from a few small dents the pipe is fine.
I have a brand new HGS hanging in my shed which i got with the bike but luckerly I have never had to take it off the wall.
Silly question but do they do different gauge pipes.?
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That would be me on DBW I have seen pro-circuit and fmf gnarly pipes cut,and compared to the hgs of my tm,they are way heavier gauge chamber.I had 5 tm"s and same problem with all of them..they are ridden very hard though,through some very technical stuff..
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I've got HGS pipes on my Maicos and I've never had a problem with them. How's the suspension set up on your TM, is it riding low in the suspension stroke? My bikes seem to ride high and over everything.
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2T institute lives near you and makes pipes, shoot him a PM.
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I've got HGS pipes on my Maicos and I've never had a problem with them. How's the suspension set up on your TM, is it riding low in the suspension stroke? My bikes seem to ride high and over everything.
Suspension is great,has been re-valved and sprung..very plush and sits up in the stroke,shock is as per factory ohlins..
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2T institute lives near you and makes pipes, shoot him a PM.
Cheers for that Jeram
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no worries, he may or may not be interested but definitely worth asking.
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no worries, he may or may not be interested but definitely worth asking.
Hell yeah, i'd love to have him nearby. His cone section chambers are a work of art and i'd say you'd get a performance increase.
Incedently the gnarly pipe is made with a thicker gauge for offroad. my HGS seems to be the same as my PC works pipe on my CR.
Maybe you need a pipe guard.
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no worries, he may or may not be interested but definitely worth asking.
Hell yeah, i'd love to have him nearby. His cone section chambers are a work of art and i'd say you'd get a performance increase.
Incedently the gnarly pipe is made with a thicker gauge for offroad. my HGS seems to be the same as my PC works pipe on my CR.
Maybe you need a pipe guard.
Have a carbon pipe guard on which helps a tad,but i think its been bent out of shape and repaired that many times its tends to distort very easily..Scalvini on the way
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I'd imagine the carbon guards are great at protecting from little dents but anything more than that would turn it into a pipe crusher as they're not structural
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I'd imagine the carbon guards are great at protecting from little dents but anything more than that would turn it into a pipe crusher as they're not structural
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I have heard good things about Scalvini for TM bikes. That is what Cycle Playground uses on their TMs.
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but one has to ask themselves, if they were superior to the HGS, why wouldnt TM use them from the factory?
TM is an Italian boutique brand, no compromises.
If they could use a pipe that made more power (questionable), was stronger (it is, Ill give them that) and was made in italy too (yep), I think they would be OEM.
Interestingly, there are very few dyno chart comparisons for scalvini available online, Id be keen to see some but so far can only find a CR144 (husky) with stock CR125 pipe, VS CR144 with scalnini CR144 pipe that was designed for the 144 huskys
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but one has to ask themselves, if they were superior to the HGS, why wouldnt TM use them from the factory?
TM is an Italian boutique brand, no compromises.
If they could use a pipe that made more power (questionable), was stronger (it is, Ill give them that) and was made in italy too (yep), I think they would be OEM.
Not necessarily. Look at their suspension. They always used the standard Ohlins shock when they could have used the TTX that out-performs it. They could use Ohlins forks, or Showa or KYB, over Marzocci. In fact, the new bikes may come with KYB, and they dropped the Ohlins shock in favor of their own designed shock. They could also upgrade to a lighter, better flexing steel frame.
TM does a lot of great things, but not necessarily no compromise on everything. Otherwise, why not have a Titanium frame, titanium pipe, etc.
Anyways, the Scalvini is the most popular upgrade I have seen on TMs.
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Hi
Here nice read about titanium framed bike and how "nice" it was http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/290/1686/Motorcycle-Article/Memorable-Motorcyles-BSA-Titanium.aspx
I have been watching prices of these bikes with interest, TM is much cheaper here Finland compared to Ktm and in states vice verse, cant understand it, but you cant have all with "cheap"
Just got mine and had 3h riding with it, im liking it very very.
Here you find some dyno figures http://www.scalviniracing.it/eng/articoli4_scheda.jsp?idarticolo=M-TM250300E/001&idcatalogo=AWAC download attachment.
Chears!
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1hp extra at 6250rpm, a slightly lower peak hp, and a little bit more overrev
atleast theyre honest about the gains unlike the other pipe makers, so they get some credit IMO
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HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may just be that the Scalvini makes different power.
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Little ot if I may. How long did it Take to break in youre marzocchis? Having little bit difficult to keep my front end under me.
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HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may be just be that the Scalvini makes different power.
true, the power curve is being compared to stock (which is a HGS) so I suppose they arnt doing too badly at all.
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Little ot if I may. How long did it Take to break in youre marzocchis? Having little bit difficult to keep my front end under me.
What year is yours? the 08's needed a shim stack mod to make them rideable for mortals.
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HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may just be that the Scalvini makes different power.
Thats exactly it apparently,have spoken with a TM trained factory mechanic and he says the have had some good results with them..HGS performance is very good,no doubt,just damage too easily for me..50mm zook forks!!shim stack mod and a pre expanded bladder transformed mine from bad to pretty darn good.
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HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may just be that the Scalvini makes different power.
Thats exactly it apparently,have spoken with a TM trained factory mechanic and he says the have had some good results with them..HGS performance is very good,no doubt,just damage too easily for me..50mm zook forks!!shim stack mod and a pre expanded bladder transformed mine from bad to pretty darn good.
Yeah that bladders gotta have at least 5mm of convexity (is that the right word?) or the initial stroke will be way too hard. I modified a syringe with a threaded end to push more oil into the bladder to achieve this easily.
I went to do the shim stack mod on my 09 but was already done. Apparently they come done already from 09 onwards.
They definitely like to be pushed hard to get the best out of them, those marzocchi forks.
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Mine is 2012, with just 4,5 hours. What is this mod for shimstack? Is there basic mod or do you mean personal adjusting?
First service will be done at 10h and by tm mechanic, have to ask him about over expanding bladder.
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Mine is 2012, with just 4,5 hours. What is this mod for shimstack? Is there basic mod or do you mean personal adjusting?
First service will be done at 10h and by tm mechanic, have to ask him about over expanding bladder.
pretty sure you can't pre expand the bladder on the 12's as they don't have a bleed screw in the cartridge cap, from what i've been told the shim stack mod was just the removal of 1 shim in the comp stack and 5wt fork oil in the cartridge . The standard valving isn't to bad as long as you've got the right spring rates
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Hi
Here nice read about titanium framed bike and how "nice" it was http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/290/1686/Motorcycle-Article/Memorable-Motorcyles-BSA-Titanium.aspx
I have been watching prices of these bikes with interest, TM is much cheaper here Finland compared to Ktm and in states vice verse, cant understand it, but you cant have all with "cheap"
Just got mine and had 3h riding with it, im liking it very very.
Here you find some dyno figures http://www.scalviniracing.it/eng/articoli4_scheda.jsp?idarticolo=M-TM250300E/001&idcatalogo=AWAC download attachment.
Chears!
You can't compare a 47 year old titanium framed bike to today's modern design, metallurgy and manufacturing. Ti has been successfully used by custom builders of light weight frames for street bikes. A lot has changed since then.
Interesting about the prices. TM is more expensive here, but not THAT much more. It is $8k for a KTM/Husaberg 300 and a TM is like $9k I think. Not bad for an exotic, limited, hand built bike from Italy.
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I know we shouldnt compare those frames, but still its little bit funnier to weld and fix on field.
Here its more than 1000? price difference, still if i look at enduro compettion list, theres 151 ktm and 22 tm. Suits me I like to drive little bit different than most
My forks has 2 small screws on outside of the red hexacon, + bleaders and comp adjustment screws
Hi
Here nice read about titanium framed bike and how "nice" it was http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/290/1686/Motorcycle-Article/Memorable-Motorcyles-BSA-Titanium.aspx
I have been watching prices of these bikes with interest, TM is much cheaper here Finland compared to Ktm and in states vice verse, cant understand it, but you cant have all with "cheap"
Just got mine and had 3h riding with it, im liking it very very.
Here you find some dyno figures http://www.scalviniracing.it/eng/articoli4_scheda.jsp?idarticolo=M-TM250300E/001&idcatalogo=AWAC download attachment.
Chears!
You can't compare a 47 year old titanium framed bike to today's modern design, metallurgy and manufacturing. Ti has been successfully used by custom builders of light weight frames for street bikes. A lot has changed since then.
Interesting about the prices. TM is more expensive here, but not THAT much more. It is $8k for a KTM/Husaberg 300 and a TM is like $9k I think. Not bad for an exotic, limited, hand built bike from Italy.
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This is a little of topic,does anyone else have problems with TM rear wheel bearings?I cant get them to last much longer than 500km,am very careful when washing with the pressure washer and also pull the race covers of on tyre change,flush them out with kero and repack with grease,being careful to not overdo with grease so they dont heat up and fail earlier..Have used SKF,All Balls and Koyo,with Koyo lasting the longest,dust seals are in good shape also.Is there a ceramic bearing or any other more durable?
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I had my first set go not long after I got the bike S/H and replaced the bearings and dust seal spacers and haven't had a problem since.
The dust seal spacers are aluminium and wear quite quick. Make sure you don't have a groove in them.
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I had my first set go not long after I got the bike S/H and replaced the bearings and dust seal spacers and haven't had a problem since.
The dust seal spacers are aluminium and wear quite quick. Make sure you don't have a groove in them.
What brand of bearing?
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NTN I think.
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Mine is 2012, with just 4,5 hours. What is this mod for shimstack? Is there basic mod or do you mean personal adjusting?
First service will be done at 10h and by tm mechanic, have to ask him about over expanding bladder.
pretty sure you can't pre expand the bladder on the 12's as they don't have a bleed screw in the cartridge cap, from what i've been told the shim stack mod was just the removal of 1 shim in the comp stack and 5wt fork oil in the cartridge . The standard valving isn't to bad as long as you've got the right spring rates
You can still do it without the bleeder holes just more mucking around.
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This is a little of topic,does anyone else have problems with TM rear wheel bearings?I cant get them to last much longer than 500km,am very careful when washing with the pressure washer and also pull the race covers of on tyre change,flush them out with kero and repack with grease,being careful to not overdo with grease so they dont heat up and fail earlier..Have used SKF,All Balls and Koyo,with Koyo lasting the longest,dust seals are in good shape also.Is there a ceramic bearing or any other more durable?
I had to do mine too at about 30 hours which i wasn't stoked with considering i couldn't find aftermarket ones and the genuines are a crazy price.
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My 2012 TM250MX has 80+ hours on the bearings and my 2012 TM250EN race bike has 42 hours on it. The HGS pipes are super thin and didn't last very long on the MX. I replaced it with the Scalvini and it has done quit well. The EN got a MOOSE pipe guard before it ever went out and the HGS has been fine with the guard. I race the TM's in the AMA Western Hare Scramble series in the 250A class, going into the last round this weekend tied for 1st. The MX is still on its original top end and the compression is still where it was when new. It's always ran half AV and 91 pump. Long live the two-strokes
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My 2012 TM250MX has 80+ hours on the bearings and my 2012 TM250EN race bike has 42 hours on it. The HGS pipes are super thin and didn't last very long on the MX. I replaced it with the Scalvini and it has done quit well. The EN got a MOOSE pipe guard before it ever went out and the HGS has been fine with the guard. I race the TM's in the AMA Western Hare Scramble series in the 250A class, going into the last round this weekend tied for 1st. The MX is still on its original top end and the compression is still where it was when new. It's always ran half AV and 91 pump. Long live the two-strokes
Out of curiosity,what oil are you using Tucker?
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Just remembered i was gonna give you a run down on a few of the issues i found with my 09.
Some of the obvious things are the bottom chain roller doesn't line up with the chain properly and needs a cut and reweld to correct.
The rear brake line rubs on the swingarm and would eat away at the alloy if left ( i stuck a piece of rubber on to fix it see pic )
The airbox design is a disaster and required me to radius the carb venturi to fix it, from stock there is a horrible square edged step because there's no relief in the air boot. While i was in there i tidied up the carb to rubber sleeve and sleeve to reed junction as it was out a little. This isn't just a TM problem though, my CR was worse and the TM barrel to cases had already been done by hand in the factory.
The fuel tank rubs on the frame quite badly and needs some rubber strips for packing too.
Not much really but i think the airboot issue robs a little power and needs fixed. Would be interested to know if the 2012's are the same.
Here's a look through after i tidied it up you can see how much i radiused the venturi
Heres a look into the airbox after in radiused it too, sorry i havent got a before pic but you can see how much of a step there would've been.
I just cut a piece of inner tube to shape and glued it, hasn't moved since.
I re routed the wiring loom too as i wasn't happy with it stock, looks much cleaner there. also after thios pic i turned the coil around so the ht lead wasn't as visible, much tidier.
The exhaust outlet had this little indent in it, apparently it's common. little epoxy fixed that.
I was never happy with how the kickstarter sat and after i tweaked the pipe the kicker rubbed on it. I swapped it for a late model CR kicker, problem solved.
The most recent pic, i've put a hammerhead shifter on since then though.
Hope some of that helps, I also highly recommend you check to make sure you've got the required pressure in your fork bladders, mine didn't from new. Without that 5 to 6mm of convexivity those marzocchi's are pigs. don't over inflate either though as the slider still has to be able to clear the bladder at full compression.
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Thanks for that Total,have got most of those issues sorted..Also have to watch the wiring loom running from your CDI,if it bunches up a little it tends to rub on the frame and chop it up..i learnt that the hard way
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Yeah i have to admit some of the finer details and fit and finish on the TM's aren't quite as good as the jappas but that adds to the attraction for me, gives me things to fix.
Just closed my squish up to 1.1mm too and now she really rips.
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HGS builds an excellent pipe, it may just be that the Scalvini makes different power.
Thats exactly it apparently,have spoken with a TM trained factory mechanic and he says the have had some good results with them..HGS performance is very good,no doubt,just damage too easily for me..50mm zook forks!!shim stack mod and a pre expanded bladder transformed mine from bad to pretty darn good.
Yeah that bladders gotta have at least 5mm of convexity (is that the right word?) or the initial stroke will be way too hard. I modified a syringe with a threaded end to push more oil into the bladder to achieve this easily.
I went to do the shim stack mod on my 09 but was already done. Apparently they come done already from 09 onwards.
They definitely like to be pushed hard to get the best out of them, those marzocchi forks.
Hi
Do you have any more specific guide for this shim mod? Like what kind off stack you have?
I have now 2.5w on inner and 5w outer oils.300cc out and full inner. But still i feel its too hars and doesnt want to go where i want. Guy whos really fast with tm300 says that that, he tried to overfill bladder but thinks it bounces off from roots and rocks and would be more suitable to motocross.
I still think that i will try it, but maybe i should try first this shim mod yore talking.
Springs i have changed to 4.2 front and 50 rear. I weight about 93kg full off armour
Instructions please, anyone?!
Regards
Me who thinks this marzocchi isnt good, prove me wrong
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Now i have servised my forks, had a look at stack. It has only 2x22mm base washers, didnt take any off. But now i will test overfilled bladders
It isnt such a big deal if you dont have airscrew in youre fork cap and want to test this. i have the screw, but still didnt use it to fill bladder. Very easy...
You just fill fork like normaly, when you have taken air off the system, cap on, rod out, install rubber band tightly over bladder holes, push rod up and bladder will expand. Now take cap off slowly pull rod out and add oil sametime. Repeat untill you have enough overfill. I did it two times and then I let some oil out from bleed screw.
Now just hoping that i can go testriding.
B
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Yep sounds like you're on the money, also pays to make sure the sags set right.
the early alloy framed TM's had 3 of those face shims in the stack and removing 1 softened up the initial stroke.
let us know how it feels now.
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Ou to answer to youre question about manufacture "faults", they are all there still. Only have done the exhaust o- ring sealant problem yet, too many bikes to fiddle.
Have you measured what is max. Overfill for bladders? Measured in midle of bladder and rod down? Ive put mine now to 41mm, but i didnt measure when it was expanded and now figuring how will it go past the sliding tube.
Test ride have to wait, flu again
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With the rod out you don't want any more than 6mm convexity otherwise it could foul on the slider under compression.