Post by: TMKIWI on February 08, 2012, 06:11:03 AM
I have started the rebuild on my 1984-85 RM125. I have 1 bike complete (above) and 1 spare frame (below).
Plus about 6 sets of plastics.
I have also bought this 84' which I pick up on sunday.
The plan is to build 2 complete bikes and have a spare bottom end.
The rebuild will take a couple of months as I am in no rush and the vmx season is just about over.
I pulled the 2 motor's apart yesterday and the 85' engine is in pretty good nick.
The bore is in good condition so I just need a piston & rod kit for the top end.
The clutch basket & hub are good as well as are the plates. So don't need to replace any of them.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 08, 2012, 06:22:16 AM
The motor will get a full rebuild of all bearings and seals.
Don't want to have to do it again in a hurry.
The 86' motor is in similar condition except a couple of gears have lost a bit of hardning.
The only main problem with both engines is the gear shift shaft looks like this.
Which I will have to straighten and build up with a bit of welding.
Both frames are pretty good with 1 missing only 1 side cover bracket and the other only 1 small crack on the rail under the engine.
I will get these sand blasted next week and decide which is best. I will wait untill I get the 84' to decide which 2 frame's to use.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 08, 2012, 06:37:46 AM
New swingarm bushes, wheel bearings, steering bearings etc.
Will replace the lot.
Suzuki's Full Floater system.
The shock will get a full rebuild with seals piston bladder the works.
The forks are getting the same treatment as well.
Have to order a few parts from yankee land so will update soon.
The strip down.
Post by: cnrcpla on February 08, 2012, 12:28:33 PM
Almost as nice as that TM
Post by: SachsGS on February 08, 2012, 03:44:12 PM
I once bought 7 RM125s of that era COMPLETELY disassembled and in boxes. After awhile I was assembling the @#$% things in my sleep! The motors have zero bottom end but are nice bikes.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 08, 2012, 07:02:46 PM
No body does them that I have found.
All-Balls do the shock bearings but they are a different size.
I don't want to pay OEM prices.
Ideas ?
Post by: dbf498 on February 08, 2012, 08:23:54 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on February 09, 2012, 07:01:00 AM
I can get sizes close but not close enough.
They are not to bad actually so if I can't find any I will use what I have.
They are not actually bearings as such, more a spherical rod end.
Post by: dbf498 on February 09, 2012, 07:33:38 AM
Post by: SachsGS on February 09, 2012, 03:51:22 PM
If you still have your lathe you could machine sleeves to adapt the odd O.D. of the existing bearing to an off the shelf generic bearing - usually you can match the width and I.D..
When I raced an RMX I remanufactured the whole bike to get around this issue.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 09, 2012, 07:03:05 PM
If you still have your lathe you could machine sleeves to adapt the odd O.D. of the existing bearing to an off the shelf generic bearing - usually you can match the width and I.D..
Yep. Thats what I will end up doing.
Post by: ford832 on February 10, 2012, 10:45:34 AM
The bearing thing always P'd me of on any of my jap bikes.So close to standard sizes but not quite.You know that is entirely intentional.I loved my KTM's and Berg for that reason-readily available,good quality aftermarket bearings at low prices in comparison to stock jap bearing pricing.
Like Sachs said,Suzuki's full floater system is still regarded as one of the best rear suspension systems ever built.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 11, 2012, 04:06:33 AM
Looks like the bike has sat in a shed for the last 20 years.
It is not a minter cosmetically but is all there and mechanically it is great.
It still has original plastics with the factory warning stickers.
It still has the original alloy bolts for the plastics and also the original fork guards.
The suspension linkage bearings are all good, just need a clean and re-grease.
It still has an original undented exhaust as well.
The cylinder is mint and the piston could go another round but will replace anyway.
The bore is only .025" over so has plenty of life. My other cylinder is 2mm over so will need resleeving if something goes wrong.
The frame has no cracks so this bike will be a pisser to get going.
I'll sand blast and paint the frame , Go over the gearbox while motor is out and throw it back together when I get my new suspension.
Post by: cnrcpla on February 11, 2012, 04:10:03 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on February 11, 2012, 09:08:23 AM
Not much.
Post by: cnrcpla on February 11, 2012, 11:36:15 PM
The most I will go is $200...
Post by: 2T Institute on February 13, 2012, 11:19:06 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on February 14, 2012, 07:21:47 AM
The full reed 82 motor is best, you could buy DG or whoever arms that had welded on a threaded part to take a stock rod end. Also look at spherical bearings
All sorted on the link arms. The 84's are perfect and I will machine up some inserts when I build the other.
2T do you have any knowledge on squish clearence/ratio/compression on these older bikes.?
Any improvements I can make over 80's tech would be good.
I will clean up the ports a little ( which are very good anyway ) and just set up everything as good as I can.
Oh, ok. I was thinking of restoring a 500, but its in pieces and most likely missing a ton, but the guys wants $550
If you want to buy it for a project go ahead.
Just be prepared for lots of work for no financial gain.
But you will be very satisfied at the end.
Post by: cnrcpla on February 14, 2012, 01:53:22 PM
Quote
If you want to buy it for a project go ahead.That's the thing, I don't have a ton of money to replace parts on it, and it would be a blast, but I would have to sell it to break even with my restoring expenses. It would be different if I had a high paying job with tons of money, then I would keep it
Just be prepared for lots of work for no financial gain.
But you will be very satisfied at the end. Grin
Post by: 2T Institute on February 15, 2012, 08:02:35 AM
All sorted on the link arms. The 84's are perfect and I will machine up some inserts when I build the other.
2T do you have any knowledge on squish clearence/ratio/compression on these older bikes.?
Any improvements I can make over 80's tech would be good.
I will clean up the ports a little ( which are very good anyway ) and just set up everything as good as I can.
Ports are pretty shit actualy, the head has a angled plug making machining the squish a tricky job. I am doing a similar engine for a fellow here, I think a better cylinder would be the TF/TS 100/125
Post by: TMKIWI on February 15, 2012, 08:39:36 AM
Plug is vertical.
Post by: 2T Institute on February 16, 2012, 01:50:17 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on February 16, 2012, 07:04:28 AM
I will cc the head and get my comppression ratio and might get one of the machinists at work to o-ring the head.
Cheers.
Post by: SachsGS on February 16, 2012, 03:53:25 PM
Post by: ford832 on February 16, 2012, 05:48:53 PM
Hurry the H up TMKIWI,I want a full floater as compared to modern day riding impressions.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 17, 2012, 06:15:58 AM
I have been busy the last 2 weeks compiling a list of parts and where to get them.
I have comming from the states new clutch and throttle cables, DG exhaust system, Guards and front plate,reeds, gasket set,engine bolt kit from DC Plastics and new .46kg fork springs & emulators from Race Tech.
The standard fork spring rate is .282kg so with the heavier springs, emulators and custom shock the bike will handle way better then they ever did new.
I already have all the bearings and seals for motor and frame.
I am waiting to get the frames sandblasted next week and then I can paint them.2 pot suzuki metalic blue.
The rear shock is being rebuilt by BT's mechanic next week as well.
I need to get the engine cases soda blasted and then I am not sure weather to paint the engine black as they were standard or leave them bare.
Open to ideas.I found a stock of NOS piston's at my local Yamaha dealer
so am sorted for pistons. I was trying to figure out the best way to modify some pegs to fit so I could get rid of the 1/2" wide crap standard one's when I had a brain storm yesterday and I will copy my TM pegs and make some out of stainless steel at work. Should look the part.
Won't take long to put together when everything arrives it's just a matter of finding the time.
I have a mate who will print me up a set of these replica graphics I found on an Aussie vmx site. Thank you very much who ever you are.
Post by: ford832 on February 17, 2012, 01:27:13 PM
Post by: 2T Institute on February 18, 2012, 01:32:00 AM
Tsk,tsk 2t institute,that's a sign of old age.I'm glad I'm too young to have brain farts
To get old and wise I had to be young and stupid once
Post by: ford832 on February 18, 2012, 01:32:11 PM
Tsk,tsk 2t institute,that's a sign of old age.I'm glad I'm too young to have brain farts
To get old and wise I had to be young and stupid once
I'm old,I'm still waiting for the wise to kick in
I actually thought I was reasonably knowledgeable but I've recently learned that my preteen daughter knows far more than me about absolutely everything.
Post by: SachsGS on February 18, 2012, 11:33:42 PM
Post by: ford832 on February 20, 2012, 11:31:36 PM
Post by: Coop on February 21, 2012, 11:47:38 AM
Post by: ford832 on February 28, 2012, 06:17:18 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on February 29, 2012, 06:38:07 AM
I picked up my frames from the sand blasters today. I have a couple of small cracks to Tig up on saturday and 1 of the frames has an engine mount tag broken. Nothing major will have them ready to prime on sunday.
I have also bead blasted all the Aluminium parts for both bikes. Engine , fork tubes , linkages etc.
I am going to experiment on a couple of pieces this weekend with "easy glow" an acid to see what they come out like.
The parts look amazing, like brand new raw aluminium.
The easy glow will just change the colour slightly. At the moment the parts are quite whitesh looking and the acid might give them a darker look. Will know soon. We use the acid at work on stainless but no one knows how it will work on alloy.I will post some pics this weekend.
My new seat turns up tommorrow as well.
Things are progressing slowly but thankfully I am on to the good part of a restoration.
Things are going together now, Not being pulled apart.
Post by: TMKIWI on February 29, 2012, 07:38:41 AM
Still a little dusty, need hoseing off.
Nice and clean.
Post by: cnrcpla on February 29, 2012, 03:41:40 PM
Post by: ford832 on February 29, 2012, 09:11:12 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on March 01, 2012, 07:27:13 AM
Did you end up by soda blasting the engine? Or just sand blast?
I bead blasted the engine at work.
Bead blasting is used on non ferrous metals because there is no cross contamination like with sand.
In other words if you sand blast carbon steel and then sand blast stainless or aluminium you will contaminate the stainless/alloy with the steel and they will show surface rust.
Beads will still do the same but not so easily.
No carbon steel is allowed in our booth.
Post by: cnrcpla on March 01, 2012, 01:26:22 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on March 02, 2012, 06:04:34 AM
Tig welded up the small frame crack.
Frames ready to be primed. (I did that tonight , photos to come.)
Machined polished the fork tubes.
The polished set on the left next to the bead blasted set for comparison.
There is still some hand polishing to do to finish off.
My new seat cover turned up as well. Photo with the new Zeta bars.
I hope to paint the frames in the next couple of days, just waiting for the shitty weather to clear.
I don't like painting when it is cold and damp.
Post by: TMKIWI on March 02, 2012, 06:11:23 AM
It would appear TMKIWI has fallen asleep or is just all drunked up on Fosters-or both.
Not even the Aussies will drink that crap ford.
Your engine pieces came out so nice, I was going to try, but at the shop we only have a sand blaster, so I guess just some purple power and elbow grease will get the job done
Depends on what you guys have sand blasted.
If you have blasted carbon steel then no.
See if anyone near you can bead blast it for you. Well worth it.
Post by: cnrcpla on March 02, 2012, 09:29:57 PM
Quote
Depends on what you guys have sand blasted.At the shop, we do all kinds of restorations work, so there have been countless rusty old tractor hoods and other parts in the sand blaster. I will look into the bead blaster though, it is definitely worth it
If you have blasted carbon steel then no.
See if anyone near you can bead blast it for you. Well worth it. Grin
Post by: TMKIWI on March 03, 2012, 04:33:24 AM
I choose a 2 pot metalic blue used on later Suzuki road bikes.
I liked the colour and thought it would look abit different to the normal pale blue used on the early RM's.
The first photo is what the colour looks like. I had to cover up the flash.
Photo's with the flash make it look lighter then it is.
I will pick up some new stainless cap screws in the next couple of days and start to throw it together.
It is always more enjoyable when things start to go back together. You can see the progress.
I noticed yesterday when I was mucking around that now everything is bead blasted the front brake master cylinder & caliper now look like shit when fitted to the legs.
These were the only things I did not do.
So if you want to bead blast a bike like this you will need to do EVERYTHING.
Post by: TMKIWI on March 03, 2012, 04:35:17 AM
Just reflections.
Post by: cnrcpla on March 03, 2012, 04:56:23 AM
Is that blue the stock color of the frame for that year, or is it just the color you picked out? Just asking because if it is the stock color, how did you match it up to the new paint color?
Post by: TMKIWI on March 03, 2012, 06:26:53 AM
Post by: cnrcpla on March 03, 2012, 03:56:23 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 17, 2012, 08:01:59 AM
The parts have turned up and I started to put the frame together today. ( pictures to come ).
New guards, cables and exhaust.
I have a full set of OEM gaskets and seals and some Boyesen reeds.
More to follow.
Post by: SachsGS on April 17, 2012, 03:04:52 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 17, 2012, 08:33:14 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 18, 2012, 07:58:27 AM
The Full Floaters bolted in. Swing arm bearings have all been replaced.
Triple clamps, Radiators & Airbox fitted.
New Guards,Front number board, Seat, Bars & Grips, backgrounds & numbers.
With a bit of luck I will get the rebuilt forks in tommorrow and fit both wheels.
A few little things like brake lever and rear support to do then I will start on the engine.
Starting to look like a bike again.
Post by: 2T Institute on April 18, 2012, 10:17:01 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 18, 2012, 08:33:51 PM
What are you doing with the engine? Have you got a stock pipe?
I have all new internals and will put the cases & barrel together and cc the head. Check the squish and machine the head to suit. The ports have been tidied up before so will leave alone. Have some new Boyessen reeds. I will need to find out some jetting specs once i get it closer to running. I plan on running it on Avgas & H1R @ 30:1.
I have a new full DG system.
Post by: cnrcpla on April 19, 2012, 01:20:58 AM
Looks great. Are you selling this bike or keeping it?
Post by: TotalNZ on April 19, 2012, 01:26:52 AM
It's minus motor though so don't know if i'd have much luck sourcing a new one.
Post by: TMKIWI on April 19, 2012, 01:55:17 AM
I love the frame color
Thanks. And no I wont be selling it.
You can see in the back of some of the pictures another frame hanging from the rafters.
I have all the bits to rebuild that one as well so might sell that one, or keep it, or find a 250 engine for it.
Will come to that at a later date.
Mean while I am having lunch. Just fitted the forks.
Once I finish eating I will put the wheels on and roll it outside and see what it looks like in the sun.
I may even have a beer, it is friday after all.
Post by: cnrcpla on April 19, 2012, 02:00:30 AM
Quote
I may even have a beer, it is friday after all. WinkMaybe for you, but its still Thursday over here
And good luck with the next potential project.
Post by: TMKIWI on April 19, 2012, 04:45:13 AM
I havn't bothered doing anything to the wheels at this stage. They have good tyres and run true.
I will probably respoke them at some stage. This was always going to be a race bike not a museum piece.
The rear hub is very good and it has new shoes & the disc is mint. The front hud is not painted black as it should be but don't want to respoke yet so it is staying as it is.
Don't worry about the shitty looking shock as the other is getting rebuilt. It is just holding up the arse of the bike.
Pretty much all bolts have been replaced with stainless cap screws and washers.
I have to get the caliper & master cylinder bead blasted next week so I can fit them up. Or I might even paint them up black.
Next is to reassemble the engine.
The shrouds are missing as they are at the graphic guys. Will see them in a couple of weeks.
I might as well go have another beer now.
Thanks for all the good coments.
Post by: dbf498 on April 19, 2012, 09:15:32 AM
Post by: 2T Institute on April 19, 2012, 10:43:59 PM
What are you doing with the engine? Have you got a stock pipe?
I have all new internals and will put the cases & barrel together and cc the head. Check the squish and machine the head to suit. The ports have been tidied up before so will leave alone. Have some new Boyessen reeds. I will need to find out some jetting specs once i get it closer to running. I plan on running it on Avgas & H1R @ 30:1.
I have a new full DG system.
The reason I ask is many times I compare the weight of a stock system v's aftermarket and normaly the stock pipe is much lighter. The lighter pipe will perform much better especialy off the bottom of the rev range.
Post by: TMKIWI on April 19, 2012, 10:58:25 PM
The DG muffler is also alot lighter then stock but is on the bike so haven't weighed it.
Question. I have a 34mm carb of the 86' engine. Stock is 32mm.
Any advantage if I run it on the 85' engine. Or more trouble then its worth.
Remember I am rebuilding 2 bikes. The first engine is .25mm oversize and will be going first.
The second engine will be 2mm oversize and I have a good stock exhaust system plus the DG system to play with between the 2 motors. Plus 34mm carb.
Thoughts ?
Post by: ford832 on April 20, 2012, 01:55:13 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 20, 2012, 04:49:27 AM
I cleaned up the ports a little. just a few casting flaws.
The liner matches up to the ports nicely.
Matched the cylinder to both cases.
Not much was needed but might as well do it right the first time.
The worst parts were the exhaust flange, which overlapped the port on 1 side by about 3mm. Abit of grinding had that sorted.
And the carb intake boot was also about 3mm too small on 1 side. So that was grinded back to match the carb and intake. The motor will flow nice now.
I think it is funny that people throw all these after market bolt on parts onto their motor but forget about the basics first.
Next I need to put the crank in and measure up the head.
That wont happen this weekend now as I am taking the TM out tommorrow.
I can't believe it has been 2 months.
Post by: TMKIWI on April 20, 2012, 04:55:29 AM
Smaller carbs are better on 125's imo,unless you want more top end and even less bottom.Looking good so far TMKIWI.
Cheers ford.
I know ford, Just thought I would ask since I have 3 carbs.
Too many people over carb an engine and stuff up the midrange. Especially cars.
The 86' came out with a bigger carb but the engine was different as well.
No idea if it would be a good or bad thing on the earlier engine.
Post by: SachsGS on April 20, 2012, 05:34:25 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 20, 2012, 05:50:38 AM
Post by: SachsGS on April 20, 2012, 04:13:35 PM
Post by: ford832 on April 20, 2012, 06:16:37 PM
) and try a smaller one,then maybe a larger one as well,just out of curiosity-mine mostly-seeing as though it's your money
Post by: 2T Institute on April 20, 2012, 11:53:03 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 21, 2012, 07:10:49 AM
In other words it was restricting the port as in was a smaller diameter. Only on about 1/3 of circumference.
You are talking about an oversize flange or larger diameter. Are you not.?
Post by: 2T Institute on April 21, 2012, 10:07:16 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on April 21, 2012, 11:09:36 PM
But yes the step was on the short side of the pipe.
I have ground it out on the flange, but I do have 2 more flanges.
Post by: 2T Institute on April 22, 2012, 02:47:58 AM
? Have I got that right?
Post by: TMKIWI on April 22, 2012, 08:12:15 AM
I keep thinking of the old air cooled models. I see the flange was smaller than the exhaust duct outlet diameter?
Stop confusing me.
The diameter was actually the same but the 3 flange holes were not centre so it overlapped on 1 side.
Not anymore.
Now it has a smooth transition from port to flange.
Post by: 2T Institute on April 22, 2012, 10:27:43 AM
About half way down.
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/moto/rs125r.htm
Post by: TMKIWI on April 23, 2012, 09:09:57 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on August 05, 2012, 07:01:23 AM
I had the motor together before I left so put it in the frame today.
Fitted the rebuilt shock , Clutch & Throttle cables, Carb and started to sort out the wiring.
Fitted the pipe for a dummy run to check fitment (good) and just mucked around sorting out bolts and stuff.
I will have the head back this week so will finish off the engine. The barrel is on to check carb boot alignment and cable routing.
Have picked up the shrouds with the new graphics which look sweet.
All I need to do after the motor is throw some new tubes in the tyres and fire the old girl up.
Hopefully all done early next week.
Post by: TMKIWI on August 08, 2012, 09:08:39 AM
Have fitted the 85' head and piston which is a flat top with a different squish then the 84'.
Head has been machined to clean up years of abuse and to slightly change the squish band.
New twin air filter , Renthal R1 chain , new rear tyre and tubes front and back.
Started the bike up and did 2 heat cycles and it seams to run sweet.
I need to adjust the clutch ( plates are sticking ) but I need to get to a track to finish that off.
All in all after a lot of hard work I am happy with the outcome.
Now I just need to ride it.
Post by: TMKIWI on August 08, 2012, 09:50:54 AM
Post by: dbf498 on August 08, 2012, 10:10:44 AM
Post by: SachsGS on August 08, 2012, 03:05:50 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on August 08, 2012, 08:39:01 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on October 12, 2012, 02:43:52 AM
Although they would look cool I found a set of Crome Moly pegs off a WR for $40.
I cut the mounts of my old pegs & the mounts of the WR and welded my mounts to the WR pegs.
Total time about 30 min.
About 3 times wider then 1984 standard.
Post by: ford832 on October 12, 2012, 01:27:27 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on October 16, 2012, 09:52:41 AM
Ah,there it is.Cooooooollll.Nice job TMKIWI but I think I'd store it in my living room if it were me.
Na ford, built it to ride it.
But if you want to pay for the freight and the bourbon I might be able to ship it over.
I do have another to put together yet.
Post by: ford832 on October 19, 2012, 01:16:35 AM
Post by: _X_ on October 19, 2012, 01:40:14 AM
Post by: ford832 on October 20, 2012, 02:32:32 PM
I always thought they were placed here to shorten your lifespan and make what few years you have left miserable. 
Post by: SachsGS on October 20, 2012, 03:58:32 PM
Post by: ford832 on October 20, 2012, 05:34:04 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on October 20, 2012, 09:52:50 PM
Do you have an operating manual to go with her.?
I hope she is not high maintanence like a 4 stroke.
Post by: _X_ on October 20, 2012, 10:40:57 PM
Post by: ford832 on October 24, 2012, 10:47:32 PM
Will need photo's of the "old women" first ford.
Do you have an operating manual to go with her.?
I hope she is not high maintanence like a 4 stroke.
OK TMKIWI,here you go
.........
Very low maintenance,very two stroke like,it's a good deal,really,I wouldn't try to put one over on you
Post by: SachsGS on October 25, 2012, 12:37:28 AM
Post by: ford832 on October 25, 2012, 02:38:40 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on October 25, 2012, 07:40:17 AM
Can she crutch a sheep, skin a deer & change the spark plugs in a '67 Plymouth Fury.
If so, send me an e-mail.
Post by: ford832 on October 26, 2012, 11:58:59 AM
You can trust me(no returns BTW,store credit only )I was afraid to ask about the sheep thing......
Post by: 2T Institute on October 26, 2012, 01:03:20 PM
I was afraid to ask about the sheep thing......
Feel free Kiwi's are pretty open about that stuff(not like the Welsh) just hasn't been the same for them since the Adultsheepfinder website disappeared.
Post by: ford832 on October 26, 2012, 01:19:58 PM
I was afraid to ask about the sheep thing......
Feel free Kiwi's are pretty open about that stuff(not like the Welsh) just hasn't been the same for them since the Adultsheepfinder website disappeared.
Hahahahahahaha...now I'm afraid to ask about that.
Post by: SachsGS on October 26, 2012, 05:03:27 PM
Post by: TMKIWI on October 26, 2012, 09:39:21 PM
just hasn't been the same for them since the Adultsheepfinder website disappeared.
Does TMKIWI have an oversize pair of rubber boots (Wellingtons?)?
No. Velcro gloves.
Post by: ford832 on October 29, 2012, 06:24:50 PM
Post by: SachsGS on October 30, 2012, 04:29:11 AM
Post by: shanes on October 30, 2012, 05:03:57 AM
Lol,Kiwi's and Scots are all the same it would appear.
australian on holiday in NZ in driving along in the country side , when he see something storage in the paddock . He stopped the car and walked over to the fence there in the paddock in a Kiwi shagging the shit out of a sheep .
He yells out hey mate back in Australia we sheer them , Kiwi replies if you think im sharing this one you can fuck off :-}}}
Post by: TMKIWI on October 30, 2012, 10:02:10 AM
Post by: ford832 on October 30, 2012, 10:14:09 PM