Post by: Stusmoke on August 13, 2012, 08:54:26 AM
Heres the question that could start a war: Whats the best piston?
At this time I'm going with Wossner. From what I can see they're great stuff, extra long life, less noise and increased horsepower so they claim, but I don't really care about the noise part. But has anyone had any super bad experiences with them or heard of said bad experiences? Also, whats the feedback for Mitaka pistons?
I'm hoping to buy my stuff in from NZ (motocrossparts.co.nz) and can get a full wossner piston kit for around $110 AUD plus postage and around $30 for the top end gaskets.
But whats the best way to go for a piston to go in a 2001 Honda CR125? Thanks in advance.
Stu
Post by: factoryX on August 13, 2012, 10:05:36 AM
Post by: TM DEAN on August 13, 2012, 11:02:34 AM
Wossner for me
Post by: dbf498 on August 13, 2012, 12:13:29 PM
Post by: 2T Institute on August 13, 2012, 12:54:44 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CR-125-2000-2001-2002-2003-Pro-X-Piston-Kit-CR125-01-1218-A1-/120965805137?hash=item1c2a1fb451&item=120965805137&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CR125-Piston-/370575603999?hash=item564806f91f&item=370575603999&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CR125R-CR-125R-PISTON-GENUINE-OEM-STD-92-95-/251121999031?hash=item3a78099cb7&item=251121999031&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CR-125-2005-2006-2007-Pro-X-Piston-Kit-CR125-01-1225-A-/120919012688?hash=item1c2755b550&item=120919012688&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
Post by: cnrcpla on August 13, 2012, 04:06:15 PM
Post by: arnego2 on August 14, 2012, 03:24:23 PM
Post by: Stusmoke on August 15, 2012, 09:27:09 AM
Woessner is great, they come in different sizes tooFirst of all thanks for all the feedback guys.
Thats my main reason for going with them I just neglected to mention that earlier, sorry. I have no idea whats been happening inside this engine but the vertex thats in there has absolutely no compression whatsoever. I can just about sneeze on the kickstarter and it'll turn over its extremely weak. It felt good to start with when I test rode it but I later discovered that the genius was just running unmixed gas in it
so I'd guess that it just wore down REALLY fast. Anyway the vertex thats in there has a piston to bore clearance that can easily be seen with little more than a sharp eye. While I'm on the topic, what is acceptable piston-bore clearance and what is the ideal clearance? I've ordered my micrometre should be here early next week.Thanks guys
Post by: TotalNZ on August 15, 2012, 10:03:51 AM
Post by: Stusmoke on August 16, 2012, 01:04:57 PM
A mic won't be much good to you by itself, you need a dial bore gauge to check the bore size then a micrometer or verniers to check the piston size. You can check your ring end gap with feeler gauges to check for wear.
I've already got the dial bore gauge I was just hoping to buy the micrometre here in town but for some bizzare reason I couldn't find one anywhere. I should have some feeler gauges lying around in the shed somewhere. The only vertex piston that was readily available from shops seemed to be a bore of 53.93...? Something close to that. I'm dreadfully confused actually cos plate just under the stator cover claims its 54.5 but pistons like wiseco, vertex, pro x all seem to be much closer to the 54 mil mark. I don't know whats going down there. It could actually be on the stator cover itself I can't remember if it is maybe that stator cover is from a different year or something. Well regardless I'll have my micrometre by early next week and I can go from there.
Thanks
Post by: maicoman009 on August 17, 2012, 01:58:48 PM
Post by: dbf498 on August 17, 2012, 11:37:56 PM
A mic won't be much good to you by itself, you need a dial bore gauge to check the bore size then a micrometer or verniers to check the piston size. You can check your ring end gap with feeler gauges to check for wear.
I've already got the dial bore gauge I was just hoping to buy the micrometre here in town but for some bizzare reason I couldn't find one anywhere. I should have some feeler gauges lying around in the shed somewhere. The only vertex piston that was readily available from shops seemed to be a bore of 53.93...? Something close to that. I'm dreadfully confused actually cos plate just under the stator cover claims its 54.5 but pistons like wiseco, vertex, pro x all seem to be much closer to the 54 mil mark. I don't know whats going down there. It could actually be on the stator cover itself I can't remember if it is maybe that stator cover is from a different year or something. Well regardless I'll have my micrometre by early next week and I can go from there.
Thanks
Post by: Stusmoke on August 18, 2012, 08:18:56 AM
I'm assuming you're familiar with each manufacturer having an A, B and sometimes C bore cylinders; each slightly larger than the letter before it, i.e. B is larger than A and C larger than B. So having you're own bore gage and measuring the bore will help answer some of the questions you have. A little digging on the web came up with this. According to Vertex's website, http://www.na.vertexpistons.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=276, the diameter should be right for a 54 mm bore. I looked at Wiseco's website, http://www.wiseco.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ItemID=PK1261&ModelID=121&ModelYear=2001&AppID=16286, the 54.5mm you're referring to I'd wager is the stroke not bore and that the stock bore is 54.0mm. Be that as it may, until you really now what the bore diameter is I'm merely speculating on what the bore really is.
A mic won't be much good to you by itself, you need a dial bore gauge to check the bore size then a micrometer or verniers to check the piston size. You can check your ring end gap with feeler gauges to check for wear.
I've already got the dial bore gauge I was just hoping to buy the micrometre here in town but for some bizzare reason I couldn't find one anywhere. I should have some feeler gauges lying around in the shed somewhere. The only vertex piston that was readily available from shops seemed to be a bore of 53.93...? Something close to that. I'm dreadfully confused actually cos plate just under the stator cover claims its 54.5 but pistons like wiseco, vertex, pro x all seem to be much closer to the 54 mil mark. I don't know whats going down there. It could actually be on the stator cover itself I can't remember if it is maybe that stator cover is from a different year or something. Well regardless I'll have my micrometre by early next week and I can go from there.
Thanks
Well I just checked my manual for it and it says its definitely a 54 mil bore. I basically answered every question I had except for which is the best. I can't believe I didn't think to look it up earlier, totally blanked on that
As I said its also been resleeved and I would say that its gonna be the 54 but I'd rather be certain. On a side note I stuck some feeler gauges between the cylinder and the piston and I got a .231 mm in there I think. It might've been bigger I can't remember. Anyways needless to say: This piston is rooted. No doubt thanks to the incredibly intelligent lad that was running unmixed gas.Thanks
Stu
Post by: dbf498 on August 18, 2012, 09:53:47 AM
Post by: Stusmoke on August 19, 2012, 08:52:07 AM
Well...I guess it depends on the availability now and in the future. All the pistons mentioned are all good quality and will provide you with years of service. I've used Wiseco for years with excellent results. I haven 't used a Vertex before and this is my first. My first impression with it so far is positive but I may go back to Wiseco not because of the quality of the piston but I can get a Wiseco for almost $20 (USD) cheaper than the Vertex.
Damn thats a good buy, Wiseco are usually more expensive aren't they? The bike is currently using a vertex. I wish I could say 'running' a vertex though
Lame jokes that demean the human race aside, I've just finished assessing the cylinder bore and found it to be a neat 53.96 mil. It can get tedious measuring it out exactly though thats for sure. But I gotta say I enjoy being able to buy the equipment I need for a change
So I've ordered in a B sized wossner piston (53.96) I may go to A size after this one is worn out, we'll see how we go. Last question, whats a good break in procedure?
Thanks
Post by: dbf498 on August 19, 2012, 11:07:06 AM
One thing to keep in mind is the importance of a good warm up before hammering it. Usually a lap on the track or anywhere from 2 to 3 minutes on the trail to allow the piston to come up to temp should be all you need before you start getting into it. I try to be a little on the conservative side and so far the method I described has done me well. Once you get your bike back together and broke in I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the Wossner piston.
Post by: 2T Institute on August 19, 2012, 11:13:02 AM
Can you post a pic of what you measured the cylinder with? Because 53.96mm is a mighty odd cylinder size to plate to. Measuring cylinders is a precise art where 0.01mm makes a big difference.
A quick and easy way to gauge piston clearence is to place a feeler gauge the same thickness as the stated clearence. If you need to push the piston with more then 2 fingers to pass it through the bore there is not enough clearence.
Post by: Jeram on August 19, 2012, 12:53:29 PM
some time ago, it made my first piston purchase a little confusing.
Post by: gpnewhouse7 on August 19, 2012, 08:53:23 PM
Post by: TotalNZ on August 20, 2012, 09:56:51 AM
Ya' know, there are probably as many if not more procedures to break in a new piston as there are choices for pistons. A process I've used in the past on full rebuilds is a series of three hot-cold cycles. What that means is run the engine for about 10 minutes, idle no load, shut it down then let it cool down for for 20 minutes to complete one cycle, then repeat the process again two more times for a total of three times. For the break in process use the same gas/oil mix you ride with. After the hot/cold cycles, I'd run it for about an hour under a light load varying the speed avoiding WOT; no more than 2/3 throttle. Once you've completed the hot/cold cycle and the light one hour ride you should be good to go. Even though the method I describe is one I use for a complete engine rebuild it should also work for breaking in a top end job as well.In my opinion that method as described is a good way to glass your bore and get alot of blowby. That 10mins idling from startup won't bed your rings in.
One thing to keep in mind is the importance of a good warm up before hammering it. Usually a lap on the track or anywhere from 2 to 3 minutes on the trail to allow the piston to come up to temp should be all you need before you start getting into it. I try to be a little on the conservative side and so far the method I described has done me well. Once you get your bike back together and broke in I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the Wossner piston.
I've never understood the need for heat cycling and noones every givin a reason for me to do it.
I start the motor and DON'T let it idle at all, give it small blips on the throttle till it's up to temp then ride it with light load to around 1/4 maximum rpm. I usually short shift it while dragging the rear brake. You don't want to lug it or over rev it but it's real important to get load on straight away. I'll do that for maybe 5 mins then stop and give it a good look over for fluid leaks and whatnot. Then back on and run it up to 1/2 max rpm (till it's just about to come on the pipe ) with bit more load. After that i kane the F**K out of it for another 25 to 30 hours. no dramas ever doing this and also no blowby. Ring seal is crucial and you won't get that glazing your bore idling for 10 mins
Post by: 2T Institute on August 20, 2012, 11:26:28 AM
I've always been taught to use OEM only in my engines as they are what the engines were designed for so if you can't get Honda one's then just try and get as close as possible to the standard piston.Hate to be the bearer of bad news but there are only a few piston manufacturers in the world. The Dover group own Wiseco, Vertex and CP , in Japan ART make most OEM pistons ProX is ART's retail brand. Asso Werke , Elko and Wossner are still independantly owned (I think ...............not sure)
Yes that be a good run in method I do 3 X 5 mins 1/3,2/3 then go for the doctor throttle, at the track it's 2 slow laps tootle back to the pit and then go for the doctor.
Post by: dbf498 on August 20, 2012, 02:53:53 PM
As far as glazing a cylinder I haven't had one glazed yet and I've used the method Eric Gorr states in his book for many years. One might say I've just been lucky, maybe, but ya' know, if it works why change unless there's irrefutable evidence to the contrary.
http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb431/dbf498/messagepartguidmessagepart3AINBOX2F.jpg (Eric Gorr, Motocross & Off-Road Performance Handbook (third edition pg 129))
http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb431/dbf498/messagepartguidmessagepart3AINBOX2F-1.jpg (Clymer, 1997 to 2001 Honda CR250)
http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb431/dbf498/messagepartguidmessagepart3AINBOX2F-2.jpg (Clymer, 1981 to 1988 Honda CR125)
Post by: SachsGS on August 20, 2012, 04:15:59 PM
Post by: TotalNZ on August 21, 2012, 05:47:04 AM
I belive you need load on straight away to get the rings to bed properly. As you'll know gas from the combustion process forces the rings out against the bore, if you don't get that light pressure on straight away you risk excessive blowby i reckon.
I can't think of anything worse than letting my motor idle for 10 mins with a brand new topend in it.
Post by: dbf498 on August 21, 2012, 08:19:18 AM
Post by: 2T Institute on August 21, 2012, 10:06:34 AM
Not allowing a proper warm up isn't good either. If not allowed to warm up properly the piston will come up to temp faster than the cylinder and if not allowed to equalize could potentially cause a cold seizure (four corner seizure).Warm up and break-in are 2 different things.
Post by: dbf498 on August 21, 2012, 01:34:16 PM
When Stusmoke asked about what break in process to use I gave him my opinion and caveated that with there are many opinions as to what the best break in practice is. I later provided evidence from published sources, so, take them for what their worth. Until someone can provide any evidence, not an opinion, to prove I'm doing something blatantly wrong or catastrophic to my engines I'm going to continue with the process I've been using for many years.
Here are two additional break in procedures; one from L.A. Sleeve and the other is from Trinity Racing...take these for what their worth as well.
http://www.trinityracing.com/files/Engine-Break-In.pdf - Trinity Racing although an ATV company they build some killer Banshees.
http://www.lasleeve.com/downloads/2-stroke-break-in-procedures.pdf - L.A.Sleeve - really no need for an introduction.
I've provided at least six different methods of breaking in an engine...each different...are they wrong...no...are they right...it's a matter of opinion.
Post by: gpnewhouse7 on August 21, 2012, 09:56:53 PM
I've always been taught to use OEM only in my engines as they are what the engines were designed for so if you can't get Honda one's then just try and get as close as possible to the standard piston.Hate to be the bearer of bad news but there are only a few piston manufacturers in the world. The Dover group own Wiseco, Vertex and CP , in Japan ART make most OEM pistons ProX is ART's retail brand. Asso Werke , Elko and Wossner are still independantly owned (I think ...............not sure)
Yes that be a good run in method I do 3 X 5 mins 1/3,2/3 then go for the doctor throttle, at the track it's 2 slow laps tootle back to the pit and then go for the doctor.
Thats not really bad news to be honest, but as far as me using OEM pistons and basically all OEM engine parts that is what my mechanic (works for a very reputable local dealer and is a good friend aswell as an absolute genius with the spanners) has always told me, he's always said if you can afford it buy OEM or for cheaper stuff buy Pro X but never us high compression pistons unless you've already upgraded the crank and gearbox so as to avoid putting too much extra strain on parts that weren't made to take it. (He races LTR450's with fully tuned RMZ engines in them in the British championship so he knows what he's talking about).
Post by: Jeram on August 21, 2012, 11:09:40 PM
Forged aftermarket pistons are lighter (than OEM), harder and stronger which makes them more resiliant during times of adverse conditions (hot/lean/detonation). Less chance of melting a piston. Unfortunately the forged pistons expand more than the cast piston so need larger bore clearances. And due to being harder and stronger if the motor seizes there is a greater probability of the forged piston damaging the bore.
For me, I need high temp resistance for long preiods (SM/road racing) so I always run forged. If I was doing MX, Id perhaps consider the cast pistons
Post by: Stusmoke on August 21, 2012, 11:24:43 PM
You won't have a break in with a piston and bore the same size you will be lucky to get the piston in the bore. "Size for Size never fits" is the old machinists axiom. There is no piston to bore clearence. An "A" size piston will be a 53.94 or 95mm you should be trying one of those first.
Can you post a pic of what you measured the cylinder with? Because 53.96mm is a mighty odd cylinder size to plate to. Measuring cylinders is a precise art where 0.01mm makes a big difference.
A quick and easy way to gauge piston clearence is to place a feeler gauge the same thickness as the stated clearence. If you need to push the piston with more then 2 fingers to pass it through the bore there is not enough clearence.
I can't work it out hey. My measurements said 53.96 and my book says 53.96 its just plain weird. However it also says the service limit is 54.006 mm. Anyway I have doubts that Honda manufactured a cylinder in which no aftermarket piston would fit in so I've just ordered the 53.96 mil piston. The piston that is in there at the moment had .251 mil clearance to the cylinder. But theres really not much carbon build up on the piston it looks relatively new. I also emailed Wossner pistons and they also said that the stock bore size is 54. So I don't know whether theres a misprint or something but I'm dreadfully confused and fairly confident I've made a mistake somewhere. I've ordered in the 53.96 and will be paying for it today.
Thanks everyone I really appreciate the help. And thanks for the break in procedure advice too.
Post by: 2T Institute on August 22, 2012, 04:17:22 AM
Post by: Jeram on August 22, 2012, 04:48:58 AM
Post by: TotalNZ on August 22, 2012, 07:53:37 AM
Not allowing a proper warm up isn't good either. If not allowed to warm up properly the piston will come up to temp faster than the cylinder and if not allowed to equalize could potentially cause a cold seizure (four corner seizure).Oh i definitely allow a proper warm up, but i do it without letting the motor idle on a fresh top end. Little blips on the throttle till everythings up to temp.
Post by: Jeram on August 22, 2012, 09:34:43 AM
Not allowing a proper warm up isn't good either. If not allowed to warm up properly the piston will come up to temp faster than the cylinder and if not allowed to equalize could potentially cause a cold seizure (four corner seizure).Oh i definitely allow a proper warm up, but i do it without letting the motor idle on a fresh top end. Little blips on the throttle till everythings up to temp.
oh you've definitely gota blip the throttle, if not for the good of the motor do it so you can feel like that lucky bastard in the GP pit lane whos job it is to do exactly that
Post by: dbf498 on August 22, 2012, 03:37:15 PM
Not allowing a proper warm up isn't good either. If not allowed to warm up properly the piston will come up to temp faster than the cylinder and if not allowed to equalize could potentially cause a cold seizure (four corner seizure).Oh i definitely allow a proper warm up, but i do it without letting the motor idle on a fresh top end. Little blips on the throttle till everythings up to temp.
I never insinuated or stated you never warmed up your engine but I'm sure other riders haven't and suffered the consequences. To set the record straight, you asked what was worse; I gave you my opinion of what I thought was worse never laying blame on anyone. If it was thought my comment was directed at any one it was not and purely unintentional. As far as the break in process is concerned, unless factual credible evidence can be provided to contradict how I do my break in's I'll continue on with how I do them. If any evidence contradicts those methods I'll consider changing, so, let's agree to disagree and drop this subject. After all, we are all two stroke enthusiasts here, not professional engine builders, helping one another the best we know how using the knowledge we have; if I have this wrong by all means correct me.
Post by: Stusmoke on August 23, 2012, 07:11:22 AM
I don't think you have 0.251mm clearence , you have 0.0251mm that is a big difference. Running ULP that CR piston will last until the first WOT run.Japanese cylinder cannot handle clearences less than 0.05/6mm There is no misprint, stock sizes for a 54mm bore are 53.94/5 a 96 piston is for a bore measuring 54.01mm
First of all: my bad it was actually .232. Secondly I know what I saw. If it was .0251 that would give me ultra high compression, the bike would start and I wouldn't need to replace the top end. My manual says an A size cylinder is: 53.976 mm. The B size cylinder is: 53.968
According to the manual the A size piston is: 53.933 and the B size is: 53.925
Above that it says the machine has a bore and stroke of 54.0 x 54.5 So I don't know what they were smoking
Post by: dbf498 on August 23, 2012, 02:12:01 PM
Post by: 2T Institute on August 23, 2012, 04:21:36 PM
First of all: my bad it was actually .232. Secondly I know what I saw. If it was .0251 that would give me ultra high compression, the bike would start and I wouldn't need to replace the top end. My manual says an A size cylinder is: 53.976 mm. The B size cylinder is: 53.968Piston to bore clearence isn't what governs comp ratio, that is bore/stroke and head volume.
According to the manual the A size piston is: 53.933 and the B size is: 53.925
Above that it says the machine has a bore and stroke of 54.0 x 54.5 So I don't know what they were smoking
Would be the first time ever a B size piston is listed smaller than A. The CR will run with 0.06mm clearence, that is a simple fact.
I'm also interested how you measured down to 1/1000th of a mm ?
Post by: Stusmoke on August 24, 2012, 05:05:08 AM
First of all: my bad it was actually .232. Secondly I know what I saw. If it was .0251 that would give me ultra high compression, the bike would start and I wouldn't need to replace the top end. My manual says an A size cylinder is: 53.976 mm. The B size cylinder is: 53.968Piston to bore clearence isn't what governs comp ratio, that is bore/stroke and head volume.
According to the manual the A size piston is: 53.933 and the B size is: 53.925
Above that it says the machine has a bore and stroke of 54.0 x 54.5 So I don't know what they were smoking
Would be the first time ever a B size piston is listed smaller than A. The CR will run with 0.06mm clearence, that is a simple fact.
I'm also interested how you measured down to 1/1000th of a mm ?
My ultra sharp ninja eyesite
Nah I'm just kidding. the feeler gauge said it was .232 on it and I just quoted directly out of the book for the piston and cylinder sizes. I can only measure up to a 100th of a millimetre with my tools. I know that piston to bore clearance isn't everything thats now what I mean't, but it sure does help
Post by: 2T Institute on August 24, 2012, 12:00:53 PM
Post by: _X_ on August 24, 2012, 10:30:42 PM
Post by: _X_ on August 24, 2012, 10:33:31 PM
Post by: Stusmoke on August 25, 2012, 12:33:47 AM
Ah ha, your looking at the imperial measurement which will be 2.32 thou(sands of an inch) which in metric is 0.05mm. What was that about Ninja eyesight
Nope, I promise its .232 mils. I really do wish it was so but its a .232 mm gauge. This would also account for hte piston slap I was hearing when it was running. But I Promise the feeler gauge says .232 mm. Also, the idiot didn't have coolant in it when we were bouncing the sucker off its rev limiter, so I've checked the cylinder for warp too but luckily its fine. I've got the whole intake system off now and when it move that piston through its compression stroke, it sounds like you just took the drain bolt out of an air compressor.
Post by: 2T Institute on August 25, 2012, 02:52:55 PM
Post by: arnego2 on August 25, 2012, 04:18:17 PM
Post by: 2T Institute on August 25, 2012, 10:20:12 PM
Post by: Stusmoke on August 26, 2012, 08:08:13 AM
Post by: TMKIWI on August 26, 2012, 08:10:27 AM
If you have a friendly machine shop close by they should be able to measure your bore for you for free.
Post by: Stusmoke on August 26, 2012, 08:58:35 AM
Sorry Stu but you shouldn't be trying to measure your bore with feeler gauges.
If you have a friendly machine shop close by they should be able to measure your bore for you for free.
No no, I'm not trying to measure my bore with feeler gauges haha. God no. No thats all sorted I've got the piston ordered and paid for should be here sometime this week. I was just gauging how rooted the piston thats in there was and was looking for reasons as to why the airbox makes a whistling noise through the compression stroke
Post by: 2T Institute on August 26, 2012, 09:51:44 AM
For the fifth time: A .2 mil gauge fits between my piston and the cylinder bore. This also makes sense when you consider the piston slap and next-to-no compression
My (3 sets) 0.2mm feelers do not bend, so I'm wondering how you push a piston past something that will not bend or conform to the shape of the bore?
Post by: Stusmoke on August 26, 2012, 10:46:12 PM
For the fifth time: A .2 mil gauge fits between my piston and the cylinder bore. This also makes sense when you consider the piston slap and next-to-no compression
My (3 sets) 0.2mm feelers do not bend, so I'm wondering how you push a piston past something that will not bend or conform to the shape of the bore?
Mine bend just enough to fit between them.
Post by: cnrcpla on August 26, 2012, 11:12:59 PM
Quote
Mine bend just enough to fit between them.Your lucky you didn't scratch the bore squishing metal between metal.
Post by: _X_ on August 27, 2012, 12:17:16 AM
Post by: msmola2002 on August 27, 2012, 02:24:12 AM
Measure once, cut twice and like wait for the rod to go through the side of the cylinder over a double cos the the clearances were wrong :p
Post by: _X_ on August 29, 2012, 11:19:37 PM
Post by: Stusmoke on August 30, 2012, 09:01:07 AM
Anyway one thing I noticed when I was turning it was how insanely responsive it was to a turn of the wheel. Almost too responsive it was VERY different to my YZ. I'd say its cos of the steeper head angle but I'll get used to it. Tomorrow I'll finish the second half of my break in and then may god have mercy on this 125... Cos I won't
Post by: _X_ on August 30, 2012, 09:51:33 PM
Post by: scotty dog on August 31, 2012, 09:22:12 AM
Post by: Stusmoke on September 01, 2012, 06:09:59 AM
Anyway I didn't get around to finishing the break in but I'm close. It wouldn't have mattered whether I finished it or not no way I could've ridden I hurt myself playing rugby at school. Anyways a bit of bad luck on two fronts there but stuff happens. At least I got the rear tire on without any punctures but I don't think I could have if I tried I've seen tractor tubes that weren't as thick as that.Pictures tomorrow arvo hopefully I'll get a new tube and sort it all out.
And yes I still have the YZ. I'll ride this 125 until the holidays when I'm hopefully getting a job then sell the 250. 250 is gonna be my backup bike incase this one grenades but it shouldn't.
Thanks again to those who helped me out.
Stu
Post by: TMKIWI on September 01, 2012, 07:25:25 AM
Post by: SachsGS on September 01, 2012, 04:08:26 PM
Post by: teampryor on September 01, 2012, 04:48:21 PM
Get a big plastic dead blow (hammer) and learn how to mount tires without tire irons.next time you do a tire/tyre change have someone video and post it up. would love to learn this technique.
Post by: scotty dog on September 02, 2012, 11:06:00 PM
me too, im not a fan of changing tyres.Get a big plastic dead blow (hammer) and learn how to mount tires without tire irons.next time you do a tire/tyre change have someone video and post it up. would love to learn this technique.
I used to use screwdrivers too when i was young, you only pinch so many tubes before ya realise its not working out
Post by: SachsGS on September 03, 2012, 04:04:24 PM
P.S. Normally I wouldn't use a lot of tire bead lubricant.
Post by: Stusmoke on September 04, 2012, 11:04:12 PM
me too, im not a fan of changing tyres.Get a big plastic dead blow (hammer) and learn how to mount tires without tire irons.next time you do a tire/tyre change have someone video and post it up. would love to learn this technique.
I used to use screwdrivers too when i was young, you only pinch so many tubes before ya realise its not working out
Thats the thing though it didn't PINCH the tube, it litterally went right through it. In hindsite if the tube was that weak, it was due for replacement anyway. I do hate changing tires though. Especially back ones, I don't mind the front ones. Anyway now shes got a set of brand new Bridgestones on her. M203/4 combo and thus far work extremely well.
As for the bike itself, I'm astounded at how quickly it climbs through the 13 grand rev range. Its rediculous I've hit the rev limiter a couple of times now. I can't hold a gear and it doesn't sound like its revving very high. Anyway thus far I've only ridden it on straights and its power band was VERY impressive in terms of how forgiving it was. In a 125 only competition falling off the pipe wouldn't be a big deal at all. I haven't yet checked the gearing though I think it might be a bit short judging by how quickly it climbs through the rev range. I'll probably put a 51 on the rear when this one wears out (Wont be long at all).
As for the mikuni carby? Crap. Really crap. Annoying to work on, floods the bike really easily (although thats probably jetting related) and compared to the keihin on my YZ doesn't do its job too well.
And while I'm on the topic, what do people have to say about the Mikuni on the Husqy CR125?
Post by: TotalNZ on September 06, 2012, 07:38:02 AM
Post by: Stusmoke on September 06, 2012, 09:27:28 AM